I'm not sure that you have the brand names of those tyres exactly accurate.
In general the bead of a wired tyre contains wire and cannot be folded for storage like a folding tyre can. All things being equal, that makes a wired tyre likely to be harder to mount.
However there are plenty of folding tyres that are hard to mount too, and this may vary to some extent on the size of your rims, the size of your tyres, and other factors.
Mostly tyre mounting comes down to technique and practice.
Here's a video
showing how to mount tyres with bare hands.
If that does not work for you then tyre levers (you don't mention) are something to try. Plastic ones are less likely to damage your rims/puncture your tube, while metal ones are easier. If you have arthritis or something then there are special rims that are designed to make tyres easier to fit.
However for most people it's going to come down to practice.
There's nothing inherently wrong with wired tyres, but a most of the time they are the cheaper ones and tyres are not something to cheap out on, since cheap ones will slow you down 100% of the time, whereas a cheap drivetrain vs. an expensive one will not have much effect.
See also this Help selecting between wire/folding tires
Suggest you practise at home until you can do the job well. If you cannot manage it, then your options will depend on how and where you are cycling - where I cycle there's usually a tyre change place (for motorbikes) within a mile or so, and they charge a very small amount of money. If you are cycling where there is not, then it will become more important that you can fix things yourself. Here you will probably want to consider between choosing a heavier more puncture resistant tyre (which will slow you down) and a lighter one (which will get more punctures, but will be faster). Often the very cheapest tyres, which the ones you mention sound like, focus more on puncture resistance, but there are others that can be better. There are various other options such as 'tubeless' (which usually requires an expensive investment in new wheels, tyres, sealant), special tubes which contain slime, and other things designed to reduce the impact of punctures, but most of the time your best bet is to 'get good' at changing tyres, in that things like tubeless tyres don't completely eliminate the risk of punctures, and so you are still left with the same technique issue of you vs. the tyre.