3

So, my Cannondale Synapse (2017) which I regret every day getting for causing so many different problems needs a new rear wheel. Its O.L.D. is 135mm, with disc brake, quick release and uses a Shimano 11-speed freehub. As far as I see, it's impossible to find such a wheel or hub and hence the question. The kind of disc brake is not important, I'm willing to change (6-bolt IS or CenterLock) and also building my own wheel. I want 32 or 36 holes because sometimes I carry heavy stuff and I am also heavy and I had to do lots of truing sessions with the current 28 spoke wheels (Maddux RD3.0). Do you think it's safe to ride with no rear brake? Because I could use perhaps a disc-brake-less wheel as a last resort.

6
  • Riding with a single brake, especially on a road bike, is not the best of ideas. Maybe Cannondale can sell you a OEM replacement hub or wheel? – MaplePanda Dec 9 '20 at 0:53
  • 1
    This is going to be hard to find, because quick-release hubs for disc brakes turned out to be an evolutionary dead-end, and have mostly been replaced by through axles. It looks like a boutique manufacturer like Phil Wood might have something for you. If you can find a hub with a 135-mm through axle (another dead-end), you can add an insert to convert it to a quick release. – Adam Rice Dec 9 '20 at 1:09
  • 1
    Ok, a 135mm disc brake hub with 11s road freehub is much easier to find. Most higher end hubs have replaceable freehub bodies, and all you’ll need to do is swap the standard 8/9/10 speed one for the 11 speed version. – MaplePanda Dec 9 '20 at 2:57
  • The problem you have is the you need a stronger wheel, not you need a hubs with... This kind of problem is bread and butter for your LBS, especially if they are a Cannondale reseller. – mattnz Dec 9 '20 at 4:44
  • 3
    Rear brakes are less effective than front brakes, but if your front brake breaks then you absolutely need the rear. Many jurisdictions mandate two separate working brakes on a bicycle. Don't skimp on brakes ! – Criggie Dec 9 '20 at 5:55
3

A few solutions:

  • FH-RS505 (discontinued), which is road 11-speed (note: fh-r505 is 10-speed, so not particularly worth seeking out)
  • any 135mm qr disc freehub such as FH-RM35 and a specific MTB-compatible cassette i.e. CS-HG800 or CS-HG700, not a CS-R- series cassette. Or indeed any random MTB disc 135mm qr wheel, which you can buy cheaply with disc fitting, and the same cassettes
  • buy a DT Swiss or similar brand 142mm x ta and then replace the ends for the qr

https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Hub-rear-350-Disc-Center-Lock-Road-for-12x142-mm-Thru-Axle-Freehub-Body-Shimano-11-speed-Road

plus

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dt-swiss-conversion-kit-12mm-to-qr-rear/rp-prod23858

1
  • 1
    Note that a 11s cassette requires at least a 34t large cog in order to fit onto a 8/9/10 freehub body. That may be too large for OP's preferences. – MaplePanda Feb 3 at 4:24
2

From https://easymountainbiking.com/can-you-fit-an-11-or-12-speed-cassette-on-10-speed-hub-on-a-mountain-bike/

"Standard Shimano freehubs are 33-34mm. Now, you may have some older mtb 11-speed cassette that needs a bigger freehub or you simply want to fit a road cassette on it. Believe it or not, gravel bikes are usually best with wider mtb hubs and road biking drivetrain so adaptations are sometimes a tricky thing.

You should check exactly how much you need for it to have 34.95mm of space. There are two ways I usually get those missing millimeters.

Depending on the manufacturer, you can either grind some material from the freehub on the bottom of the splines or grind some from the biggest cog on the cassette. I prefer modifying a freehub because it’s easier to keep the grinding surface level. If it’s not level the cassette won’t be stiff enough and might damage the freehub bearings and attachment bolt. Which can then result in wobbling and gear skipping.

You should be careful about how much space you have from a cassette to the wheel spokes. If the cassette comes too close you might damage them. Although I’ve never seen this problem on a mountain bike, only on road bike wheels."

2

The Velo Orange rear hub comes in 32 or 36 with the correct endcaps for 135 QR. You choose the freehub you want, 11speed road is an option.

https://velo-orange.com/collections/hubs/products/disc-rear-hub-silver-and-noir?variant=31841972715657

Halo make an equivalent part (WL) but only a 28 drilling.

A DT Swiss hub with the correct endcaps would work, as previously noted.

You could buy one of the Bitex Road Disc hubs that Pacenti sell and fit the 135QR axle kit, also available from Pacenti.

So you have lots of options, and I've only listed a few.

1

You can add a 5mm spacer to the NDS of any non-disc 130mm QR road hub and dish for 135mm. I've done this a few times with 11s 105 and ultegra hubs. But then you'll have to give up the rear disc brake. is there a center mount for dual pivot rim brakes in the rear? There are clamp-on (😬) brake bosses to add posts for cantilever brakes but...

As far as carrying a heavy load, you might be better off with a mtb hub which is designed to be more robust. You can also bump up the spoke count. I've laced up 48h 5X wheels before. Velocity makes 48h rims in 700c.

12ga spokes are an option. If you go 36h, lace them 4X. Also consider distributing some of your load to the front fork or a frame bag if possible.

1
  • 1
    The problem with MTB hubs is that they don't fit 11-seed road cassette. – ojs Feb 3 at 8:28

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.