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After some trial and error (see another post of mine), I finally settled in on getting a carbon hybrid bike. I want carbon because it is lighter and I want a hybrid because I prefer a flat bar (just don’t prefe to ride with a drop bar).

I would like to know if anyone had recommendations in the $1500.00 to $2000.00 range. Here what I found that looks good:

  1. Trek FX Sport Carbon 4: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-sport-carbon-4/p/32262/
  2. Giant Fastroad Advanced 1: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/fastroad-advanced-1-2021
  3. Cannondale Quick 1: https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/active/fitness/quick/quick-1

Interestingly, the Trek FX 3 Disc looks similar to the Cannondale (aluminum frame, carbon fork), but I have no idea if the Cannondale Quick 1 is any better the FX 3 Disc.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you for your help.

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    We tend to not go shopping at bicycles.SE. We're aiming to build a knowledge base, the answer for you won't be the answer for someone else. Bike selection hinges largely on fit. No one here is in a position to comment on how the sizes available for these models fit you – Paul H Jan 16 at 3:01
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    Thanks. I was just seeking suggestions and did not realize that a post like mine would pose any issues. I appreciate your feedback. – Anil Rao Jan 16 at 3:55
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    Your best option is to try them in person - nothing says "yes or no" like a ride on the bike in question. – Criggie Jan 16 at 7:39
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    For that price you could get a carbon road bike which is 2kg lighter (~7.5kg vs ≥9.5kg). I don’t even understand why these hybrids are so heavy. – Michael Jan 16 at 10:14
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    Bike radar has a buying advice forum. – Erlkoenig Jan 16 at 11:19
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I would recommend this based on my experience when I was starting to get into the sport and also bit of your other post.

  • I would encourage you to get an endurance fit road bike. It sounds like you will primarily be riding on concrete or asphalt vs. gravel or mountain biking. Plus it seems like you have a need for speed which is totally fine as I do too. Also, modern disc endurance fit bikes can do some light gravel rides since you can fit up to 32mm tires on them.

  • You do not like drop handles bars. I think you need to understand a racing drop handle bar has 3 positions on it.

  1. Tops you are pretty much straight up and is used as a recovery position or when cruising and you do not need access to the controls.

  2. Hoods is where most road riders ride at and is still pretty comfortable and upright. This is where most road bikers spend most of their time and is similar to being upright on a flat bar.

  3. Drops are used to gain full aero or for aggressive cornering/fast descents. Most road riders on the road will not be in this position their whole ride.

  • Based on your last post and being in the U.S. I would recommend going to a Trek Corporate store to find your next bike. Ask to look at a Trek Domane SL5. If you are between 5'7'' - 5'10''ish you will probably be a 54 size frame in Trek and probably Specialized too in my experience. Here are some reasons why I recommend this frame and made a similar decision in 2019 when I bought the same model (I have several thousand miles on that bike and do not regret the purchase one bit).
  1. Endurance fit road bikes get you most of the aero a full aero bike gives you, but you can usually get a more comfortable fit that allows you to ride for long distances.

  2. Again since new endurance bikes allow for wider tires, you have some options to do light gravel rides with the same frame. Also this endurance fit frame gives you vibration absorbing bushing to make uneven pavement fell less jarring without losing much if any power transfer.

  3. That model bike gives you 105 groupset, which in short is identical to what the pros ride except ever so slightly more heavy. The good part is as you wear out parts, you can upgrade to Ultegra or Durace, which is exactly what the pros use.

  4. Trek has bike fitters at their stores. I would ask a fitter to make sure the frame is the right size for you. Note based on my personal experience never riding a road bike, I wanted to chose a smaller size frame, but fortunately the sales person was a former bike racer and fitter. He basically said don't do it and when I asked why he said you and I are the same size and there is no way I could ride a 52 frame. I am glad he intervened as right now, I am progressing to making my fit more aero and aggressive. Had I gone with the smaller frame, I think I would have been way too jammed up riding vs. feeling like I can get in a tuck but still easily pedal.

  5. Trek has a no questions 30 day satisfaction guarantee on the bike. I have never had to use this, but have used other Trek warranties. They stand behind what they sell and usually do what is right by the customer is what I experienced.

  • The other thing to make sure you do is make sure you have them ensure the seat is the right size for you. I would recommend something that has a cutout and short nose. This is what I use - Bontrager Aeolus Comp Saddle. I initially had the wrong size saddle and struggled to do 50 mile rides with padded riding shorts. With the right size saddle, I have no issues doing 50 miles with normal shorts on. I think a lot of people lose interest in the sport because of bad saddle fit and even worse is the advice of get more padding or padded shorts does not really address the root cause of a seat that does not fit your sit bone width.

  • Last piece of advice after making your purchase is go talk to your insurance agent and get a personal articles policy for your bike through the same people you have your renters or home owners policy. Also let them know you want it to cover damage from a crash. The personal articles policy will cover any damage to your bike without a deductible (e.g. crash, transport damage, theft, etc.) and it is pretty inexpensive peace of mind for a purchase that is 4 figures. I do not recommend a bike specific insurance as they are not as well regulated and are usually by off brand insurers that probably will charge more.

  • I personally would avoid hybrids, ebikes, gravel bikes because I feel they are not purpose built and I am sure I will get flack for it in some way shape or form via a comment below. Also, I would avoid expensive aluminum bikes due to stress cracks and other reasons. I also would avoid the desire to upgrade anything like wheels, handlebars, etc. until you hit a few thousand miles on the bike. I do not at all advocate buying speed as I think some people try to do that vs. training, but that is their prerogative.

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    The great thing about gravel bikes is that they are versatile: You can fit wide tires, a rear rack, often 3 bottle cages, mud guards etc. They also have a wide gearing range. So you can do everything: Typical road bike training rides, commuting, multi-day travel with camping equipment, light off-road use etc. etc. Compared to a road bike the only disadvantage is slightly more weight and slightly worse aerodynamics. If I could own only one bike it would be a gravel bike. However, if you know that you only want to do road biking then of course get a road bike. – Michael Jan 16 at 17:18
  • If OP doesn’t want drop bars, I think it’ll be hard to convince them otherwise. They’ll still need to be on the hoods for braking and shifting, so it’s not like they can go on the tops full time. Some people also just aren’t comfortable with their arms so close together. Next, endurance bikes don’t have the tire clearance needed for heavy-duty gravel tires (40-50mm). Finally, Trek’s warranty is absolute shit, not very impressed by my experience. – MaplePanda Jan 16 at 21:51
  • In my opinion being on the hoods are not far off from being at the same back lean as flat bars. You have to learn how to hold on the hoods, but once you get it I find it quit natural. Curious what happened with your situation and Trek and if you got blown off by their corporate support vs. a local bike shop that did not want to do warranty paper work. I have no affiliation with Trek, other than owning one. – Tude Productions Jan 16 at 22:22
  • Your elbows and wrists are rotated 90° differently with drop vs flat bars, which is a major difference. The majority of road bikes have saddle-to-bar drop as well, while MTBs tend to have rise instead. Therefore, the back lean angle will be different. When a weld failed on my bike this summer, Trek took nearly a month to replace the frame (I lost a big chunk of my riding season. You would expect to get a rental bike, but Trek didn’t). When I picked up the bike, they charged me like $200 for new cables, hoses, and an overpriced chain ($20 higher than retail). – MaplePanda Jan 17 at 19:55
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    @MaplePanda - Thanks for sharing that way folks can get both the good and bad sides of things. – Tude Productions Jan 17 at 19:57

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