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I have an (admittedly cheap) lock ring removal tool which is bundled with equally cheap red-handled chainwhips commonly sold on eBay:

photograph of a lock ring removal tool

This tool works great for installing and removing Shimano cassettes. I really like the fact that it has a 1/2" socket adapter so I can snap it on to my torque wrench.

I now have a bike with disc brakes and want to swap wheels. The aforementioned tool has the correct number of splines for the rotor, fits but only goes down about 1mm into the hole, so I'm unable to remove the rotor lock ring because there's not enough purchase.

I'm looking at either Pedro's 6460010 (lock ring tool with no center pin) or the Shimano TL-LR11. I'd like to avoid the Park FR-5.2 since it requires a 1" socket to fit on to a torque wrench, making it far too easy to fall out. The TL-LR11 says it is specifically for the SM-RT10 and won't fit standard center locks, so I may be barking up the wrong tree. I have SM-RT70S rotors

Which of these tools would best suit my needs or should I look for something else? I'm also considering switching to external lock rings that require a BB tool, but would like to be able to remove the existing rings myself and/or use this tool help out friends in the future.

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  • If you want to use it more frequently than only each other year, throw the cheapo thing a away and buy one from a reputable brand. Better than ruining lockrings
    – Carel
    Apr 13 at 6:59
  • Hence the question. There seems to be compatibility issues and it's not clear from the manufacturer's sites which ones would have the proper clearance
    – user56112
    Apr 13 at 8:07
  • Compatibility issues mostly related to rather approximate manufacturing 'tolerances'!
    – Carel
    Apr 13 at 11:34
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The limited engagement you speak of is a quirk of some hub and Centerlock lockring combinations. It's annoying. You are correct that if you want, you can probably eliminate the issue with the kind of Centerlock lockring that uses an external BB tool. To my awareness there's not really another way; when I've seen this it's not a tool compatibility problem as such, but the hub has something going on that would block any conventional lockring tool from getting in far enough.

To do it with the tool you have, use a lightly clamped QR skewer to hold the tool on, and then turn it with a big adjustable wrench. That should be able to overcome the limited purchase if the end of the splines are still in okay shape from prior attempts.

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  • What is the role of the QR skewer?
    – Vladimir F
    Apr 13 at 5:57
  • 1
    @VladimirF even if the spline engagement is very minimal, like 1mm, that can be enough with the tool clamped in place so it can't move. Apr 13 at 6:02
  • OK I did not understand you use it to hold the tool in place.
    – Vladimir F
    Apr 13 at 6:04
  • Excellent advice, though it didn't end up working out as my hub's external diameter seem to be exactly the same as the internal diamater of the tool. Using the skewer to pull it on to the hub just made it spin around the hub and wouldn't contact at all. The 1mm of contact noted in the question should be clarified to indicate it's 1mm on one or two of the splines. Seems like a pin tool or a visit to my LBS is in order
    – user56112
    Apr 13 at 8:08
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    @user56112 In that case it sounds like it's a wall thickness thing, so it will be a matter of trying other tools of the same sort yours is. Apr 13 at 14:57
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You want the tool with the appropriate guide pin for your axle size. Can't do product recommendations so I can't get you the exact model numbers, but they're easy to find online.

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  • 1
    Providing information on which tool is compatible (fitting inside the lockring and around the axle) would not constitute a product recommendation
    – user56112
    Apr 13 at 4:26
  • @user56112 In that case, you want Park FR-5G for QR axles and FR-5.2GT for 12mm TA.
    – MaplePanda
    Apr 13 at 4:28

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