I have one wheel that has lacing pattern like #1 and other wheel is lacing pattern #2?
What is the right way to make 3 cross lacing pattern?
I have one wheel that has lacing pattern like #1 and other wheel is lacing pattern #2?
What is the right way to make 3 cross lacing pattern?
The second variant (where you lace the outer spokes under the inner spokes at the last cross, I'll call it cross-under lacing in the following) has a slight wheel stability advantages:
When you transmit torque over the spokes, you are putting tension on one half of the spokes while removing tension from the other half.
The cross-under couples the tension of one leading spoke with one trailing spoke.
As such, the cross-under reduces the likelihood of one spoke loosing all its tension during acceleration/braking, and thus serves to make the wheel more robust.
On the other hand, the cross under has a significant wheel-building disadvantage:
Since it couples the tension of two spokes, you cannot adjust the tension of one spoke without affecting the tension of the other.
Since two spokes are coupled at the cross-under point, they cannot vibrate individually. This makes it impossible to equalize spoke tension by ear.
The cross-under simply makes wheel building a bit harder.
Since I personally prefer to tune my spokes by ear, I never use a cross-under. Other people have other preferences. Afaik, factory laced wheels often come with cross-under, I guess that's because they have the equipment that makes cross-under lacing easy. And because such wheels are known to be a bit more robust, they sell better.
Jobst Brandt says it doesn't matter so long as the pattern is mirrored over the hub. There is an argument (small) for having pattern #1 on the drive-side rear to reduce the chances of the chain getting stuck in an over-the -cassette disaster situation.