The drive-side rear needs to be at higher tension because the spoke angles are asymmetric. There have been two other alternatives to spoke angle asymmetry: rim spoke hole asymmetry and frame asymmetry but neither has become widely used. In disc brake front wheels, the opposite effect is seen: the non-drive-side will be at higher tension due to needing to have space for the disc brake rotor.
160 kgf is a high tension and unless your rim has double eyelets (sockets), may be too much for the rim. Even if your rim has double eyelets, having such high tensions might make the rim buckle, meaning getting it completely trued might be a bit difficult as a small adjustment somewhere can create a large error in some other location, and stress relieving by grasping the spokes can make it untrue in a wavy way.
160 kgf really requires reasonable spokes (so overly butted spokes or spokes too thin in the middle section such as 2.0mm/1.5mm/2.0mm should be avoided), lubrication at the nipple-to-rim and nipple-to-spoke interfaces, a strong rim and a wheelbuilder who knows how to over-do all adjustments slightly and back off to eliminate spoke windup when adjusting the nipples.
If you observe any minor amounts of buckling, reduce the tension. Also reduce the tension unless your rim has double eyelets.
The rule of thumb about spoke tensions is that every side has equal and high tension on all spokes, but for asymmetric spoke angles the tensions on both sides can differ. Only rim brake front wheels and some really wide fatbike wheels (so wide hubs that can be made to have symmetric spoke angles) have equal tensions on both sides.
Spoke length does not affect tension symmetry. Improper spoke lengths can however make it impossible to tighten the nipple fully, or strip nipple threads if there is too little engagement.