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I have a B'TWIN Triban Aero rear wheel with a Aero 28 hub on my B'TWIN Triban 520 flat-bar.

Some heartless **** decided to steal my rear quick release mechanism the other day, losing/also stealing the non-drive side rear hub end cap in the process.

I took it to my local bike shop and they said that the only thing the could do would be to replace the entire wheel.

I'm wondering whether it's possible to just replace the end cap and QR mechanism. The only problem is I'm struggling to identify the size/type of the end cap, is anyone aware of any end caps which are compatible with this hub. Here is a close up of the hub and drive-side end cap:

enter image description here

This is how the wheel/hub should look. You can just about see the non-drive side end cap in the picture.

This is how my wheel looks with the silver end cap missing, please ignore the grime:

enter image description here

Thanks,

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    I believe it's a Joytech/Novatec hub. Take your choice of emailing their US, EU, or Taiwan offices with those pictures to start. Jun 12 at 17:09
  • Those hubs also show up, or have, on a fair number of OEM wheelsets and are kind of borderline worth rebuilding, borderline not, which puts them in the category of a hub you might find in a bin of used hubs at used bike parts shops. Jun 12 at 22:46
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These are not standard parts so you won't find anything that's "compatible" with it. You'd need a replacement. Did you try writing to Decathlon or bringing it to one of their shops? B'twin is their brand, they have repair shops, so they could have a replacement.

Other than that you could just make it. Find a tube with a proper inner diametre and cut it to length. It needs to be so long that the axle protrudes just as much as on the other side. Usually it's about 4-5mm. Or, better, get some rod stock and drill a proper size hole in it (that takes some skill and probably a drill press, though). If you know someone who works in a metal shop, they should be able to make one of those from scrap in minutes.

And oh, if you manage to find a proper replacement, make sure you tighten the grub screw on the side (the little hole with a hex key head in it), that way it won't drop off the wheel. :)

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  • You also need a dust cap which covers the bearings.
    – Michael
    Jun 13 at 6:28
  • Yes, but a dust cap doesn't really do much. I consider it more a cosmetic thing, unless it is equipped with a labyrinth seal. If you know someone who has a 3D printer, it would be easy to make one. I also thought of a great ghetto-engineering repair for this. Get some bolt nuts that fit over the axle and stack them until you are close to proper width, then fine-tune it with washers. with some heatshrink tubing over it it may even look ok. However it works, it would work. Jun 14 at 7:06
  • Cheers for your help! After lots of wasted time searching for the official parts I decided to go with your "ghetto" fix. I got a M12 nut and washers from a diy store and it's worked a treat - No chance of the wheel coming loose!
    – Sean
    Jun 20 at 16:00
  • Hey, glad that it helped :) - a ghetto repair is sometimes the only way to go. Whatever works, eh? :) Jun 21 at 18:07
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not sure what you mean by "hub end cap". there is a piece that covers the non-drive side, but on the freehub side you posted, the entire hub is covered by the cassette and lock ring. replacing the QR skewer should be sufficient.

i'm assuming the picture you're posting is a stock photo, if you post a picture of your wheel, we may be able to identify the piece.

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  • OP’s “ piece that covers the non-drive side” has been lost. That’s the whole problem here.
    – MaplePanda
    Jun 11 at 21:10
  • Thank you for your response, I have edited my post with a picture of the wheel.
    – Sean
    Jun 12 at 9:27

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