I have tried following tutorial videos to service my Zonda rear wheel bearings - I want to cleanup the grim and regrease the bearings - such as

They all show that after removing a nut and a sleeve the freehub comes off. This is not happening on my wheels, nut and sleeve/washer come of as per videos but the freehub does not nudge. I have tried many combinations of spinning it + pulling to no avail. How weird is that? What can I try?

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I have managed to remove axle and freehub from the hub (with a mallet), but these two are still seized together. I have tried spraying WD-40 in between the two and spinning them to help it penetrate but no nudge, they cannot be separated. I have removed the paws and I am thinking about putting it back on the hub and knocking the axle towards the hub to separate them. Is there a chance I damage something this way?


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1 Answer 1


Not budging at all once the locknut and spacer are off suggests that the axle is stuck (i.e. corroded) to the bearing inner race(s) and/or the tubular spacer between the bearings. I believe once the locknut is off, there should be some amount of free play of the freehub body on the axle even if the axle flats are not yet clocked to allow the freehub body to slide off.

If it's corrosion you're up against, you can try dripping a penetrating oil into those spots. I would start with something like Tri-flow, which wicks well but has no solvent component, so it won't hurt any of the bearing components it comes in contact with.

I believe the design allows the left side hardware to all be removed and then the axle and freehub can slide out the right side as a complete assembly. That might give you better access to wick your oil into inner freehub body bearing.

Since again there should be some free play even if the axle flats aren't able to pass through, you don't have to have it perfectly aligned to try gently tapping it free. To do this you would pull the axle and freehub out together as above, rig up something like a vise or length of pipe where freehub is resting on top, and gently tap down on the end of the axle with a soft mallet to try to get the stuck parts moving.

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  • First, I don't have triflow and it does not look very available here in the UK. Are there substitutes? Second, on the non drive side I have manager to remove the lock ring and the metal cylinder piece. But it has not brought any play into the freehub. I could have hit the axle with a mallet but I preferred not to. Commented Sep 2, 2021 at 1:37
  • @Learningisamess Asine from the freehub bearings these are essentially just cup and cone hubs, so to get the axle off you have to get the left cone off the axle. Hitting the axle won't do anything when the cones are still around the main bearings, I'm not saying to do that. The idea is to tap it through the freehub bearings and tubular spacer to free it up there. If the diagram above is your hub, those are the spots where the axle is able to get stuck like you describe. Commented Sep 2, 2021 at 1:43
  • Anything that's a light oil that's able to wick in to small gaps will do the same. You're just looking for something that isn't a solvent, because you'll be getting it near the freehub body bearings. Commented Sep 2, 2021 at 2:07
  • Try PlusGas, the motorbike ppl use it all the time
    – Noise
    Commented Sep 2, 2021 at 8:53
  • 1
    I would only use WD40 there if I was willing to replace or unseal then thoroughly flush and regrease the freehub bearings afterwards. It's mostly solvent. Commented Sep 3, 2021 at 23:05

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