Built up a new bike. All components are new and unused. As title suggests, rear wheel sits right in the middle of two seatstays (checked with ruler and vernier caliper) but is off by ~3mm at chainstays. To eliminate the obvious:
- This is a thru axle frame, so incorrectly seated QR axle is not an issue
- Wheel is true. In fact very true.
3mm may not sound like much, but given overall 45mm clearence of the frame at the stays it is actually a lot and is noticeable when high volume tires are on.
If it was off at both chainstays and seatstays I would assume that wheel is not correctly dished. However one is off and onother one is OK... If I try to correct wheel offset in one place by changing the dish I will inevitably get the wheel off center in another area...
First of all thanks everyone for contributing.
After reading comments by @Criggie I was tempted to try and measure the frame with the taut string from the headtube (or seattube) to both rear dropouts. However having done calcs on paper (my math skills are poor...), I realized that for deviation of ~3mm at the wheel rim, I am looking for deviation of around .3mm at the dropout. I don't think this is something I can reliably measure with a string.
Feel free to correct me if my math is wrong:
- Rim diameter is 622mm (standard 700c rim)
- Axle total length is 142mm (half length 71mm)
- Perceived deviation of the rim at chainstsays: lets assume 3mm based on my manual measurements. Could be a bit less or more.
- Calculated deviation angle: 0.276 degree
- Calulated offset of dropout to achieve that angle is 0.34mm
At that point I dropped the idea of measuring it.
Now I am looking at two options:
Option1. Ignore it and just ride.
- If I stick to manufacturer's recommended max tired width I still get clearence of ~4mm between left chainstay and the tire. Plenty?
- I don't know of any potential issue with the wheel being not perfectly centered between chainstays. Please let me know if you do
Option2. Contact the manufacturer.
- Frame is still under warranty.
- They will likely want me to send the frame-only for inpection. That means opening and removing all hydraulic lines (routing is internal). Removing gear shift cable. On re-assembly I will need new olives + barbs for hydraulic lines and potentially complete replacement of the front hydraulic line, because it is currently trimmed at the minimum length...