It is standard for road bikes to adopt Presta, whereas nearly all else use Schrader.

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I personally think Schrader are better:

  • I've had fewer Schrader valves break on me than Presta
  • No problems if needing to use car pumps
  • Have also seen long Schrader valves for deep rims
  • Less fiddly
  • 3
    related although not duplicate? bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/59/… – Simon Feb 19 '12 at 6:55
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    interesting. I have had more schrader issues and breakage than i have with prestas. Personally i love prestas, and use them even in schrader drilled wheels. – Matt Adams Feb 19 '12 at 22:39
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    I'm curious as to what problems Matt and Brian have had. I've never really had problems with any valve. – Daniel R Hicks Feb 22 '12 at 13:01
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    Is there a question? What is the question? – kmkaplan Dec 5 '12 at 23:10
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    This question should be reopened and protected, as it contains some valuable discussion (that does not need to be repeated elsewhere). – Daniel R Hicks Jul 18 '14 at 12:04

The main thing is that the Presta valve is thinner, and takes less of a bite out of the rim. This is quite important as the rims get narrower.

Further, the Presta works better with hand pumps in that there's no spring that the pump needs to overcome to get air into the tire. Also, the Presta always has the fully-threaded body (which is possible with Schrader, but rare), so a nut can be used to hold the valve in place -- again, quite important with hand pumps.

Never had a bike valve stem break on me, that I can recall.

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    This. Presta valves are purpose-designed for bicycles. – Stephen Touset Feb 20 '12 at 2:24
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    Not all presta valves have a fully-threaded body. Most do, but I've picked up lots of long stem presta tubes at kraynick's bike shop with threading only on the top 1cm or so. – Benzo Apr 20 '12 at 19:36
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    @Benzo -- Then I'd take them back. – Daniel R Hicks Apr 20 '12 at 20:22
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    You can get presta's that are NOT threaded, those of us with push on pump heads appreciate that. The threads and that little nut that screws down on the rim are not really necessary. – Angelo May 10 '12 at 14:37
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    The threads and nut prevent you from pushing in the valve when you push on the pump head. Makes things much easier (and helps prevent tube damage) when inflating a totally flat tire. – Daniel R Hicks May 11 '12 at 11:05

This primarily comes up as the pressures in the tires get higher.

With lower pressure wider tires, Schrader makes the most sense, if only because you can hit a gas station for some air pressure.

Presta makes more sense on higher pressure tires, since it allows you to pump in higher levels with a floor pump. Per the comments let me try and clarify. When you use a Schrader stem the valve is depressed by a thingy in the pump head the whole time. With a mechanical constant pressure pump (like at a gas station) this is fine.

But with a floor pump where there is a pause between pumps, Presta works better because each time you release pressure, the valve head closes. Then as you build pressure in the pump, when it exceeds the tires current pressure it forces the value to open, allows air in, and repeat. Thus you can pump to higher pressures with it. (Or at least with poorer quality pumps.

But if it bothers you, get the little one dollar adapters, and you can use a car pump with no issue.

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    How does a Schrader limit tire pressure? Semi-trucks run 100PSI plus on Schrader valves. – DQdlM Feb 19 '12 at 21:55
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    Maybe limit pressure is the wrong word? Make it easier to pump in higher pressure would be more correct. In Presta, the valve stem is pushed in the whole time, so the pump chamber has to maintain pressure or lose it. In Schrader, each pump builds pressure till it pushes the stem in, then air flows. – geoffc Feb 20 '12 at 13:12
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    I believe he's saying that Schrader valves are harder to get to high pressures with mechanical pumping, which is periodic, as opposed to having a continuous stream of air provided by a compressor. – Stephen Touset Feb 20 '12 at 19:09
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    @Jahaziel, how do you know that the center bit is being pushed down all the time? I suppose one way to check would be to inflate the tire and then leave the pump connected. If after a few minutes the tire loses pressure, then the center bit is being pressed down by the pump head. I believe that the old Silca pump heads do not push down the center bit. – Angelo May 10 '12 at 14:30
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    +1 for mentioning the $1 adapter. With presta + the adaptor, you never have to worry about being stuck with a pump that won't work on your valves. – Angelo May 10 '12 at 14:34

Schrader valves are more robust, this is the reason why you see them universally in use for vehicle tires. With Presta, you have to be more careful when putting in or taking off the pump nozzle or you might bend or even break either the rotating (locking) tip of the valve. You could also go to literally any gas station to pump air to your tires if you are using a Shrader valve.

Presta's advantage is that it is thinner and the rim has a smaller valve hole in which case it makes the rim stronger. This can be a factor especially in thin bicycle rims. Another advantage of Presta valves is they can be made longer, a lot longer in fact than Shrader valves. This is especially important when you have deep aero type rims.

  • I doubt there is a limit to the length of Schrader valves. After all, truck tires valves (perhaps with extensions) have to go a long way to be accessible. Maybe they just are not made longer in bike tubes for whatever reason. – PositiveK Sep 21 '13 at 4:53
  • It's more that the rims where length is important tend to be skinny and lightweight, making the difference between a 10mm Schrader hole and an 8mm Presta one more important. Plus the extra weight and air resistance of the bigger value count more when you're paying a lot of money to shave grams and trim CdA – Móż Feb 23 '16 at 1:18

I've also had fewer issues with crap clogging the valve with presta valves; as long as you remember to spin the valve closed you don't need a valve stem cap. This is particularly important if you're riding in mud or dirt. I run presta on both my road and mountain bikes for this reason.


I have used both presta and shrader valves, like neither. I go for Blitz/Dunlop. Easier to use than both others.

Maybe it is just a case of what you are used to, but I think the Dunlop least fussy, easiest to use and least likely to fail.

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  • Dunlop valves used to come with rubber tube but the newer version has a sturdy bit of rubber build into the valve and those hardly ever fail. – Willeke Apr 3 '15 at 14:23

Your rim will be drilled for one of the two. Usually a schrader. A presta (which is thinner) will allows fit in a schrader sized whole, but give more freedom for the valve to move around, often causing a valve wall tear and leading lots of people to think "wow what a useless valve". A typical case of human error. This can easily be countered with a schrader to presta valve converter, a cheap little bit of plastic cushioning which usually costs pennies. Prestas are far more performant in terms of the amount of pressure they can hold, and the rate they can take air in.

Schraders are widely used not just because "they're the best" but because they've become a standard which is hard to break away from.

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    Schraders are used because they are well-suited to auto tires, motorcycle tires, et al. (Though, interestingly, not that well suited to drag racer tires.) For the bikes where Schrader valved comfortably fit it make sense to use them, since gas station hoses can be used to fill them. But for narrower tires Schraders simply aren't a good fit. – Daniel R Hicks Dec 6 '12 at 0:39
  • Schrader valves also have the problem that they require force be applied into the valve to activate the spring. This can push the valve stem down into a deflated tire meaning proper pump attachment can be difficult. Presta fixes this by not requiring force be applied directly to the spring and by having a nut to keep the valve from moving into the tire. – gps Jul 21 '14 at 1:21

In addition to what others have said, many gas station air compressors won't push the tire pressure past 80 psi. This is fine for cars where the tires are usually inflated to about half that, but no good for a road bike where you probably want 100+ psi. This means that you're stuck using a floor pump, a frame pump, or a Co2 pump alll the time. And as others have mentioned, Prestas just work better with hand pumps. And if you're filling your tires to 100+ psi all the time, you might as well have a valve that works easily with the pump that you'll be using.

  • 80 psi at a servo? Not round here! They either have digital pumps that stop at 60 PSI, or the hand ones that are backed by a compressor in the workshop. Many of those stop at around 40 PSI because who needs more for a car ? – Criggie Feb 22 '16 at 11:09

When I was racing sixty odd years ago you either had a valve with a Valve Rubber, or high pressure valves, the thinner high pressure tires and tubes, and Tubs [so called tubeless tires] had these as you call them Presta valves we called them high pressure and I would think they are a refined Schrader valve.

  • Welcome to Bicycles. Check out our Terminology index - the names of things change over time. On a personal note, sounds like you were racing when my father was :-) – andy256 Apr 24 '14 at 7:01
  • The ones with a little bit of rubber are Woods valves, aka Dunlop valves. These days their main purpose is answering trivia questions about why some tyre repair kits still have little bits of rubber tubing. sheldonbrown.com/gloss_w.html#woods – armb Jul 18 '14 at 14:49

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