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I'm trying to remove the crankarms and BB from a Trek 520. The bike is circa 2006 according to the previous owner. They are labeled "FC-5502/5505" on one of them and "FC-5505" on the other. "HollowTech" also is written on at least one of the crankarms but it's very faded and hard to see.

I've watched some Park tool videos on the subject (https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-and-installation-three-piece) and they seem to say if you have an 8mm crank bolt, then to use the square tapered crank puller (I do have a CCP-22 already). But they also say that if there are 8 splines on the inside, to use the Octalink/ISIS crank puller (CCP-44). Well this is an 8mm bolt and it seems to have 8 splines on the inside!

Picture: https://imgur.com/a/Mw5KJ1O

Shimano has some documentation here: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-1DG0C-000-ENG.pdf This seems to suggest that I need another special tool (the TL-FC15).

Question 1: How do I get the crank off? Do I need the TL-FC15? If so, can I use that with my CCP-22 or do I need Shimano's TL-FC10?

Question 2: I haven't been able to get the non-drive side crank bolt off. This is also an 8mm hex bolt but it's stuck on really hard. Before I bring out my breaker bar and/or impact driver, would the non-drive side be reverse threaded? Don't want to break anything here.

Thanks!

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You have Octalink and you need either any crank puller for Octalink/ISIS or an adapter type tool such as the TL-FC15, which fits into the end of the spindle and lets you use a square taper crank puller. Get either, and there's nothing wrong with getting the cheaper option. Adding a CCP-44 is probably the worst choice because it's a unitasker with little upside, and the dual-tip "compact" tools like the CWP-7 or Pedro's Compact Crank remover are superior in almost every way because of their ability to position your lever however you want and also to get as much leverage as you want.

Having to use a breaker bar on a crank bolt is pretty normal. Octalink is one of the least tolerant to looseness in the crank bolts, and the max torque is 50 Nm (a big number), so it's good that it's tight. Crank bolts are never reverse threaded.

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  • Thanks! So I could just get a CWP-7 and not get the Tl-FC15? My inclination is to do that since it seems to be the more versatile tool to my CCP-22.
    – Dan K
    Nov 9 '21 at 19:51
  • Yes you could. If you're going to use it all the time on all sorts of bikes, the CWP-7 or other compact style tool is the way to go. For occasional use it doesn't really matter. Nov 9 '21 at 20:49
  • Awesome, made the purchase. Thank you.
    – Dan K
    Nov 10 '21 at 0:43

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