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Does anyone know where I can get handlebars like this? Thank you.enter image description here

Note - the stem is clamped to the lower "top" and not the normal one.

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    On second look, that bar is installed wrong. It is not intended to be clamped like that, and indicates the rider needs a more upright position than drop bars would normally give. If that's what you want either your frame is too small, or your stem is too low. Try a riser stem instead.
    – Criggie
    Commented Feb 27, 2022 at 2:35
  • To me it looks like the bend is more or less symmetrical vertically so there's no problem with using the bar upside down
    – ojs
    Commented Feb 27, 2022 at 7:37
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    @Criggie “hover bar” is probably Canyon’s proprietary gravel handlebar. Their idea is additional hand positions plus having the bar act like a spring. The item above may just be conceived like a super duper riser handlebar.
    – Weiwen Ng
    Commented Feb 27, 2022 at 12:31

2 Answers 2

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It’s possible that these are Scott Drop In handlebars mounted upside down. The BikeRadar article credits an Eric Garwood of (Greg) LeMond fans. That gives you an indication of the era when these were an item: Lemond raced in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Thus, if you absolutely must have a pair of these, you’ll need to look on eBay or other used bike parts sites.

enter image description here

The case for not getting these bars

In the original photo, the bars seem to have been mounted upside down. People who invert drop handlebars are typically looking for a much more upright position. That is an indicator that the bicycle frame is fundamentally the wrong size and possibly type - for example, you might have a road racing bike but actually need a touring bike or flat bar hybrid. Consider this: The vertical distance between the hoods and the drops is usually over 100mm, so if you feel you need a bar in this arrangement, you are asking for the front end to be something like 100mm higher than it currently is. That is a huge amount of change.

I would recommend selling the bike and buying one that fits, and I believe all experienced observers would do the same. You can tinker with the fit parameters around the edges, e.g. depending on how much steerer is available and where the stem is, you may be able to get 10-20mm higher, or you may be able to change the stem to one with a greater angle, or a riser drop bar might get you 10-15mm higher at the hoods. If you need a very large position change, it is more worth it in the long run to get a bike that actually fits and that is actually designed for your use case (e.g. if you are a competitive road racer, you would be better off not considering a touring bike).

Historical trivia

Criggie alluded to something called the Hover bar in comments. Canyon currently use this brand as a proprietary handlebar on their Grail gravel bike. It doesn’t appear to be designed to offer more overall rise than a standard drop bar. It appears like it both offers more hand positions and acts like a leaf spring for compliance (the bar is made of carbon). Specialized also currently market a bar called the Hover bar, which is a drop bar with some rise (about 15mm) to it. I believe that some touring handlebars also have this feature. If you just need the handlebars modestly higher, you could consider this type of bar. I don’t think there is a generic term for this type of bar. If describing it to a bike store, I would say something like “can you recommend a drop handlebar with some rise.” Be aware that MTB handlebars can be offered in flat or riser versions, so be sure that the salesperson doesn’t get confused with flat handlebars.

I am not aware of any unusual handlebars made by Cinelli in the 80s, although I wasn’t cycling at the time and I can’t swear to this. In the 90s, Cinelli did offer the Spinaci clip on bars, which were short clip on aero bars that were marketed for mass start road racing. I actually had a pair for a while, but they lacked armrests and were not comfortable in time trials/triathlons. The UCI banned them in mass start races on safety grounds.

Aerodynamics trivia

The rationale for the Drop In bars was that you could grasp the lower, turned-in parts of the bars (where the Scott logos are) to achieve a narrow position. This would make your upper body narrower than the standard drops position. These bars didn’t achieve wide success.

In modern times, you would either mount clip on aero bars or use the aero hoods position as detailed in the linked answer. In Lemond's era, these bars failed to get significant uptake. I believe it is true that getting lower and narrower will generally reduce your drag coefficient. However, the Drop In bars are adding two cylinders that are at 90% degrees to airflow from the front, and cylinders are aerodynamically inefficient shapes. Furthermore, unlike the aero hoods position, using the drop extensions still leaves your forearms (which are also roughly cylinders) exposed to the wind. It's been shown that the aero hoods position is superior to the regular drops position. Last, your control in the drop extensions would be impeded. Thus, I don't believe the Drop In bars are superior to current possible alternatives (although at the time, the aero hoods position wasn't known, and I believe athletes focused on achieving lower body positions).

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  • Yup those are exactly what I was thinking of - the Cinelli ref was incorrect. +1
    – Criggie
    Commented Feb 28, 2022 at 1:37
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You could get a vaguely similar shape using regular drop bars, and a pair of MTB Bar-ends positioned at the points of the hooks and aimed inward.

Downside, there would be no graceful curve where they meet; there would only be a clamp.

You could also fabricate a straight bar that goes all the way across the same gap and has a pair of pipe-elbows on the ends. Securing it to the drop bar might require epoxy and rivets, as well as lots of bartape. Also avoid banging into your frame's head tube.


Finally, mounting bars as per your picture will raise them enormously. That will be a huge posture change, and put a lot more weight on your saddle/backside while taking weight off your hands.

Unweighting the bars on a road bike is going to make it twitchier - most racey road bikes are deliberately unstable in the steering to react faster when required. Longer touring bikes with more trail would be much-less affected.

Your hands could be a long way from the brakes too - consider exploring cyclocross interrupter brake levers to give a second braking position.

Make sure your stem clamp is well-affixed to the bars - with them high up you'll have more leverage and they're more likely to move sooner. Tighten them periodically, and check every month.

Lastly - if you're in an accident on this bike, the much-higher bars are more likely to clip and catch you. So avoid accidents, or at least ride defensively. Last resort is to actively push the bike away from you if its all going wrong.

Summary - get a bike fit. I think you're fixing symptoms and not looking at the root causes.

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