Assuming the chainrings are exactly as you say, they are not a matched pair.
The 11 speed chain is made especially narrow by making the sides extremely flat with no pin protrusion. This presents a challenge for chainring designers to get a good shift as the chain isn't as "grippy" on the sides.
For this reason, all the chainring manufacturers (including aftermarket - Shimano, SRAM, Middleburn, TA, Praxis, Rene Herse, Rotor etc etc) produce chainrings in timed pairs that only allow the shift to happen in specific places around the ring and also allow the chain to be engaged with both chainrings simultaneously during the shift. This is why you will see chainring compatibilities listed such as 50/34, 52/36 but may not see 50/36 compatability if the manufacturer you are using hasn't allowed for that in their timing.
The jump on these road chainsets is large as well (16 teeth, usually) which also contributes to the shift being a difficult peice of engineering. A closer jump demands less of the drivetrain.
If you have a non-matched pair, you can end up with some strange shifting problems, and the chain bouncing off the rings on either upshift or downshift if you shift at an unfortunate moment. On 9sp and older systems, the ring timing is less critical and many people here will be used to getting away with using mismatched rings, maybe even from different manufacturers, for a long time with no problem.
Read this interesting article from Rene Herse about their 11 speed chainring development story, if you are interested in more detail.
Either way, I would say to ensure you have a matched pair of rings before assuming anything else is wrong. Perhaps invest in the matching SRAM 11sp outer or buy a new matched set and sell off your existing ones to offset your costs.