The headset is a straightforward unit. Two cups are pushed into the frame with an interference fit and the crown race is smacked onto the top of the fork in a similar way.
In the past, when I have had to, I have performed a headset swap using some large lumps of wood and a mallet. Your setup is luxurious in its detail.
Some people will not approve, but this is my answer, and if you want to (or have to) fit your headset with what you have to hand, you should, while understanding there is a risk of damaging your equipment.
Provided each part is pressed on square, there is very little to go wrong. You do one cup at a time, and if it starts to go off line, knock it out, try to determine the problem and if you need to scuff off any imperfections with a file or adjust the setup of your "tooling" and start again. If you are totally cack-handed, you can crack the head tube, damage the cups or both. You would have to be trying very hard though, the parts have inherent material elasticity that allows you to feel a problem before it becomes a permanent deformation.
It is important that the frame has been reamed and faced properly, which is generally done by the factory to a good enough standard. If it's a framebuilder-constructed frame, they will have done this as a matter of course. If you made the frame yourself, get someone to do this for you because the tools are insanely expensive.
Cutting the fork is simple. Once the headset is fitted, put the fork in, put everything on complete like you want it, spacers, stem, etc., mark the line on the steerer tube, take the fork out again and either cut here to use a 3-5mm spacer above the stem or cut 2-3mm below this line if you are prepared to take a risk. Make sure you cut it square. It's helpful to use a pipe cutter to start the cut, then either finish with the hacksaw using the line as a guide or finish with the pipe cutter and spend some time filing the outside of the steerer tube to get it down to the right diameter to fit the stem (the pipe cutter creates a bulge as it cuts). Even if you use a fork steerer cutting guide, you can still get a cut on the squiff so the pipe cutter is a useful tool, and cheap.
Fitting the star nut is easy. Some top caps are designed with the star nut fitting in mind and have a special shape to the bottom of them: you just put the star nut up snug and knock it in by hitting the top cap with a rubber mallet until it bottoms out. Other top caps don't have this feature but there are ways to improvise, I'm sure you'll figure it out.
We obviously assume you are using a fork with a metal steerer tube, as you are using a star nut. Carbon steerers require significantly different prep for the cut and that's an answer for another question.