Version 2 is what is usually done. If you do version 1, please ensure the nipple can actually swivel enough in the spoke holes. The thickness of aluminum in the rim and the spoke hole size sets a maximum swivel angle for nipples. If the spoke needs to swivel more, it may run to a hard stop and instead the bending may happen not at the nipple but along the spoke. If this is the case, you want to correct the spoke line such that the bending at the spoke is not a smooth gradual bend, but a hard abrupt bend. See "correcting the spoke line" in The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt.
I do all my wheelbuilds on hemispherical nipples (not Sapim but DT Swiss Pro Head). These are the only nipples that should ever be used. Even for offset hole rims built the normal way, or for non-offset hole rims, all you should use are the hemispherical nipples.
Note that it's not enough to just have hemispherical head nipples. You also need the spoke line at the hub flanges to be good. Some hubs may have the hub flange slightly bent, to assure good spoke line for spokes on both sides. This slightly bent hub flange is intended for rims with non-offset spoke holes, or for rims with slightly offset spoke holes where the wheel is built the traditional way. Your way (version 1) might not be what the hub manufacturer thought by bending the flange slightly.
If you haven't purchased the spokes yet, prefer triple-butted (2.34mm / 1.8mm / 2.0mm) spokes. Butted spokes, thinner in middle, are better than non-butted spokes. The triple butting is required because optimally spoke hole at the hub would be just big enough to pass a spoke through. Unfortunately, it's slow to lace a wheel with correct spoke hole size at the hub. In order to increase wheel building productivity, the hub manufacturers have made the spoke hole overly large. This is a problem because 2.0mm spokes have rolled not cut threads, so the thread is slightly larger than 2.0mm. The mismatch between the spoke hole in the hub where it's very fast to push the over-2.0mm threads through, and the exactly 2.0mm spoke J-bend end, means the ordinary 2.0mm spoke doesn't have a good match to the oversized hub hole.
The triple butted spokes (2.34mm / 1.8mm / 2.0mm) have optimal J-bend size, meaning the interface between spoke J-bend and hub spoke hole is perfect. It's slightly slower to lace a wheel with triple-butted spokes but the difference in time is paid back by a more reliable wheel.