1

Front Wheel: 26" x 1.75 x 36H x 12G Alloy-Cruiser, Bolt-On

Rear Wheel: 26" x 1.75 x 36H x 12G Alloy-Cruiser, W/Shimano Coaster Brake

Front Hub: Alloy Bolt-On, Sealed, 36H x 12G x 3/8" Axle

Rear Hub: Shimano CB-E110 Coaster Brake, 36H x 12G

Spokes: 12G Stainless Steel with Brass Nipples

Rims: 26'' x 36H x 12G, Alloy

Tires: 26" x 2.50" Sand Storm Cruiser Tire

Tubes: 26'' x 2.35 - 2.75'', Schrader Valve

Frame: High Tensile Steel, TIG-Welded

Fork: 1-1/8"' Hi Tensile Steel, Curved Legs, Double Eyelets

DRIVETRAIN

Crank Set: One-Piece Steel, 170mm

Chainwheel: Steel, 40T x 1/2'' x 1/8''

Bottom Bracket: Steel, Sealed, For OPC

Sprocket: 22T x 1/2" x 1/8"

Chain: K.M.C. Z510X EPT, 1/2" x 1/8"

Pedals: Alloy W/Chromoly Spindle, 1/2

enter image description here

Improve this question
2
  • 1
    Just clarifying - you want to fit an electric motor kit to this bike and to ride it in the winter? What are your winter weather conditions like ? Are we talking Texas or Canada levels of snow/ice? What range are you looking at? Can you charge at both ends ? Can you store your bike inside in the warm or does it live in the cold ?
    – Criggie ♦
    Commented Oct 12, 2022 at 3:14
  • I can keep it in during the times it's not in used I live a hour away from Chicago IL so winters vary it's going to be for in town riding and like 5 mins to work and back and I'm able to charge it at work as well I looked everywhere online but because of this specific X frame it's hard to find a actual answer.
    – Jaymes Peters
    Commented Oct 12, 2022 at 4:26

2 Answers 2

Reset to default
2

If you want an electric bike with all the parts integrated, then you kinda have to buy it as an ebike already. There is no easy way to add a mid-drive or rear drive without a lot of work, and there will always be wires strapped to the frame going somewhere.

However, there are add-on kits which give you an electric assist, but they tend to replace the front wheel, and then have a battery to mount somewhere on the bike.

The earliest one was the Hilltopper, which used two 12V SLA batteries in series to give 24V to a 3-phase AC front hub motor at about 300W. They worked fine, but range was short and batteries were substantial. My 15 kg mountain bike doubled in weight with this kit added.

The modern take uses a lithium battery, but is still essentially a replacement wheel, some wires, a controller box and a battery. Example would be the Swytch which retails for 450 UKP for 15 km range, or 575 UKP for 30 km range. Battery weight is claimed to be 700g.

Due to legal requirements, modern versions tend to have a pedal-assist sensor so you can't just sit and get pushed around like a motorbike. You have to rotate the cranks, and your efforts are assisted, not replaced.

Consider that if your commute to work is literally five minutes ride, then you don't "need" an ebike. Still a nice-to-have but is it worth the cost?

Improve this answer
2

Thinking about the "built for winter driving" part of the question and the variableness of a Chicago winter.

You can expect
wet
snow
ice

Your bike comes with fenders so it's ready for messy weather.
Think about your tires.
Something with a more aggressive - knobby - tread will help you in the snow.

Your current tires work well for wet and dry.
Knobby tires will help with snow.
There are studded knobby tires that do help with ice and snow.

If you go with a knobby tire of some kind be careful to get a size that will fit under your fenders. Something the exact same size as the tire you have would be your best bet.

Riding skill and knowing when to get off the bike and walk it with even the best tires can't get traction will be critical.

Improve this answer

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.