Start by removing the untrue wheel and tweaking it back to straight. Can be easier to do if the tyre/tube is removed.
While the wheel is off, give it a good clean and dry. Assuming your frame is metal, under a generous light, examine these areas closely:
- front/back of both fork legs
- Welds around the fork's crown.
- Welds around the head tube
- The first 200mm of the top tube and down tube
You're looking for cracks or wrinkles. Chips can sometimes tell you the metal moved and then moved back.
Refit front wheel then check the headset bearings by clamping on the front brake lever hard with one hand, and with the other hand hold around where the steerer exits the head tube. You should feel only the slightest of play when rocking the bike back and forth.
Check fork alignment visually - for a frontal it would generally bend right below the crown. Most forks will have a centerline from the steerer tube, and then the fork tines/legs are in-line or bend forward of that centerline. If they go backward at any point then its been pushed there (or is some weird design like lauf forks)
Check wheel tracking by riding straight through a water puddle then onward over dry concrete without wiggling. The two wheel tracks should lie on the same line. If the fork is bent sideways the rear wheel will follow its own path.
Finally consider your helmet - you say that you bumped heads. Have a close look inside and out, and consider replacing if it is over 10 years old anyway.
You may choose to redo bartape or grips if they got torn or damaged. Its not uncommon for brifters to get pushed toward the centerline of the bike.
Make sure you can change through all the gears still, and that rim brake pads are still lined up to press on the rim not the tyre. Disk brake pads, confirm they're still operating as expected.
If your bike is carbon fibre, most of this advise won't apply, sorry to future readers.