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Just wondering if anyone out there has tried this particular rim+tyre bead combination. I had a hell of an experience with GP 5000 TLs on other bike (Mavic Kysirum Elite rims) which turned out to be so tight I couldn't fit them by the roadside in the event of a puncture. Looking around online, I've since discovered this combination of rim+(tubeless)tyre-bead is renowned as being particularly tough to fit.

I'm tempted to try these same tyres on my other bike because they performed so well while actually riding. I'll go for the non-tubeless version in the hope the bead will be a little easier to stretch over the rim.

My question:

Will it be possible to fit and repair this rim+tyre-bead combo without losing a few hours and the skin on my knuckles each time I puncture? The intended combo is Mavic Allroad Elite UST Disk + Conti GP 5000 folding 700 x 30C.

Sadly I no longer have my old GP5000 TL tyres so I can't just try it out without purchasing a new set.

Any experience much appreciated. Cheers,

Harley

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  • What is exactly the question? Why not tubeless? A thing I like with this series of Mavic wheels is the fact that the rim has no holes inside, which removes one failure point for tubeless. Other advantage of tubeless: except for the really big holes, roadside repairs are done with the tire on the wheel, no need to unmount it.
    – Renaud
    Feb 14, 2023 at 15:41
  • Because the OP thinks that the combination is difficult to install? BTW, I think the pictures don't exactly add value to the question.
    – ojs
    Feb 14, 2023 at 16:30
  • Tubeless is lovely, and I like riding it. In this case, I'm going to avoid it for two reasons: 1. I'm worried about using GP5000 TLs because I previously found their bead to be so tight and thick that it was near impossible to fit to my road bike's rims. I'm hoping a regular non-tubeless bead will be a little easier to get on the rim.
    – Harley Day
    Feb 14, 2023 at 16:32
  • 2. I'll be riding a long endurance race, and want easy-to-fix setup. Tubeless is great so long as you have extra sealant and a good track pump. It becomes neigh on impossible to fix if there's any kind of large tear in the tyre wall and your tubeless valve gets stuck in the rim (also had this happen). I want a system I can reliably fix with cold fingers at night in the dark with just a mini-pump and some basic patches. I'm not keen on taking extra sealant, or putting up with getting inner tubes covered in tyre sealant so they become harder to patch with vulcanising rubber solution.
    – Harley Day
    Feb 14, 2023 at 16:33
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    GP5000 are notoriously hard to fit, so it's not sure that the combo is relevant for the answer: except training to fit tires, there's not so much that can be done. If roadside repair is your priority, maybe better to find another tire. Otherwise, you can have a look to this info: bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/69475/…
    – Renaud
    Feb 14, 2023 at 18:50

1 Answer 1

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NB I wanted to put this as a comment, but don't have enough rep.

What's your current process for putting a tyre on/off? I've got some Allroad's and the trick for Conti Gatorskins is to move both sides of the tyre into the well in the middle of the rim. Leaving one side seated (and locked behind the tubeless bead) makes getting the 'open' side of the tyre on almost impossible. Putting both sides of the tyre into the middle of the rim all the way around, and it's simple non-bruised-thumbs job.

If you inspect the inside profile of the Allroad rims closely, there may be a difference in the bead that helps 'lock' a tyre in place. The disc side of the tyre may be easier to unseat/reseat than the drive side.

For the 'cold/dark/trailside' scenario, I find this order best: (i) push disc side of tyre into middle of rim; (ii) push drive-side of tyre into the middle of the rim; (iii) use supplied tyre levers to remove disc side of tyre.

I can't find a reference/diagram to support the above 'difference in bead profile', although from this picture: https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb10170759/p4pb10170759.jpg the left bead has a more 'ramped' profile, and the right has a sharper corner. IIRC the manual that came with the wheelset had a cryptic diagram indicating to take the disc side of the tyre off first, but with no explanation. Mavic may have changed this feature over the years as UST was adopted more widely.

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  • Welcome to the site - great first answer.
    – Criggie
    Mar 12, 2023 at 22:57

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