My experience with chains is that some simple chain care and selecting high-quality chains helps a lot.
I have gotten 4000 km from the original chain of my 10-speed e-bike (with Tiagra components but not sure if the chain is Tiagra or Ultegra or something else -- I'll replace it with Ultegra once it's worn). It isn't still 0.5% worn and I expect I do the next chainwear check the next time it starts squeaking which should be at about 4500 km. And note this is an e-bike and that I used to weigh more than 100 kg for most of that 4000 km I have ridden. Given those specs (over 100 kg weight, e-bike), chainwear should be very fast but I seem to be getting more kilometers out of it than would be expected given the strict 0.5% wear limit I adhere to.
There is a chainwear article with broken images here but fortunately Wayback Machine helps: https://web.archive.org/*/https://www.cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/ (select old enough version to see the images)
The 8-speed chain, HG40, wears indeed very fast. 9-speed HG93, 10-speed CN-6701 and 11-speed CN-HG701 have far longer lifetimes.
What they didn't test is equal spec 8-speed with equal spec 9-speed (if you can find matching pairs anymore).
However, this shows that with the move to thinner chains, chainwear doesn't automatically increase. Better manufacturing can offset the drawbacks of thinner chains. I suspect if you choose CN-HG71, you can get some of that better manufacturing for 7/8-speed systems too even though it may not match HG93 and CN-6701.
About the chain care. What you want to do is to never add oil to an oily and dirty chain. All the oil does is to help attract more dirt, and help that move to chain innards near the pins where it can do the most damage.
What you instead want to do is to wait until you can hear the slightest amount of squeak. It means the chain is starting to run dry. Then the rollers are shiny clean. The chain innards near the pins are quite clean too, since there's little oil to attract dirt so there's little dirt too. Clean the exterior of the chain with stiff brushes and specially reinforced paper towels for about 10 minutes. Once it's acceptably clean, oil it with thixotropic motorcycle chain lubricant. This lubricant is good for about 800 km. Wipe the excess lubricant away with a specially reinforced paper towel. Then you're good for the next 800 km.
So the idea is that since it's hard and messy and requires lots of hard-to-dispose solvents to clean the chain innards, you use the natural cleaning action. Once the chain starts to run dry, the dirt isn't held inside the chain anymore and can find its way out. The side plates will be dirty though in the parts that don't rub against each others, but that you clean with brushes and paper towels.
The important thing here is to react as soon as you hear the slightest amount of squeak (best to react in 50 - 100 km since even 150 km of riding with a squeaking chain can do lots of damage). If you let it squeak for too long, the lack of oil wears the chain very quickly. So there's a balance. Adding oil every 100-200 km means it's continuously full of oil and full of dirt (fast wear), waiting too long to add oil means it wears from lack of oil (fast wear too). But an optimal oiling interval based on hearing a very slight amount of squeak means the wear is very low and chains last long.
Now, theoretically you could remove the chain away from the bike for very thorough cleaning every 100 km before adding oil. It requires lots of time so not worth it since you could spend that time riding instead of working on the bike. I suspect it would however increase chain lifetime somewhat over the brush/paper towel cleaning every ~800 km. Also theoretically you could use on-the-bike cleaning machines every 100 km before adding oil. However, they make a huge mess, require lots of solvent and oiling a chain that hasn't fully dried from solvent probably doesn't make sense and drying the solvent is best done on a hotplate and you can't obviously put a chain on the bike over a hotplate.
So-called dry lubes require so frequent application that I'm almost certain they make no sense, since even though they don't attract dirt as heavily, they can still carry dirt inside the chain, and it doesn't make sense to clean that dirt away so frequently and oiling a dirty chain with any kind of lubricant is a big NO! But it certainly makes sense to quickly clean dirt away every 800 km which is the interval needed for thixotropic motorcycle chain lubricant. Also dry lubricants probably are not as good as lubricants -- ever seen an internal combustion engine lubricated by a dry lubricant?
I'm sure this answer will be downvoted by a huge horde of wannabe racing cyclists who fear how many watts you lose by not oiling the chain before every ride. But once you stop fearing about watts, you will see that it's very simple to extend chain lifetime a lot, it doesn't require really much time, it can even save time since you don't have to change the chain so frequently.