2

I posted here a while ago about purchasing a thru axle, I ended up ordering a thru axle which I believed fulfilled the criteria of my frame and existing thru axle. I relied on the specifications that proved to be inaccurate (and now fixed). Lesson learnt - next time I will measure myself.

It is the one in gold It is the one in gold:

However, looks like it was longer than what I expected. When I try to assemble it, it looks like this, compared to the black one.

enter image description here

enter image description here enter image description here

In terms of "strength" I feel like it is pretty solid, but I didn't use any torque wrench to measure how tight it is. Looks like there is some threads that are sticking out, since it is longer. What do you think? Can I use it this way?

Improve this question
8
  • You cannot rely on a torque wrench anyway, since you probably won't have one when solving an issue on the roadside. But it is good to get the feel how large torque is required at least at home. Usually 10 N.m which is not that little.
    – Vladimir F Героям слава
    May 25 at 8:55
  • Regarding the actual question, is the distance from the head to the start of the threads identical? It seems it might not be. I am actually surprised you managed to get it all the way through. I think it would not be possible on my bike.
    – Vladimir F Героям слава
    May 25 at 8:55
  • 3
    You'd want to quantitatively measure the "head to start of threads" distance for both, and also determine the amount of "remaining thread" for the old one once tightened. The primary risk here is that you run out of thread while tightening the new one--you need to ensure the head of the TA tightens against the frame before (in the sequence of events while tightening) this occurs.
    – MaplePanda
    May 26 at 2:05
  • 1
    You can also visually check that without the wheel, right? If you're out of threads on the inside of drive side drop before the head tightens, it must be too long, as in "the threading is too far out".
    – DoNuT
    May 26 at 8:27
  • 1
    @DoNuT This may not be perfectly accurate since the dropout spacing might not perfectly match the hub width.
    – MaplePanda
    May 26 at 22:34

1 Answer 1

Reset to default
2

I am 99% sure the axle is fine to use. Only reason it would not be is you dropouts are significantly thinner than 'normal' (unless the manufacturing is so far out of tolerance it is not really a 142mm though axle).

The concern is the length of the axle between the head and the start of the thread being too long. If it is, the axle thread will bottom out before the wheel is clamped. You need to be certain the axle has not bottomed out on the thread and is tight because it has clamped the wheel.

Measure the thickness of the lefthand dropout. Add this to 142. measure the length of the axle from the endcap to the threads. This must be less than the length you calculated.

The extra thread sticking out is not a problem. Being a genric axle it needs to be long enough to cope with various thickness dropouts.

Improve this answer
2
  • Thanks mattnz. In other words - do you mean that the lefthand dropout should be fully engaged along its width with the threads? Meaning, there can't be any unthreaded part of the axle that is engaged with the lefthand dropout?
    – yuvalon
    May 26 at 9:19
  • 2
    Confused - lefthand dropout is not threaded. The right hand dropout MUST have exposed threads on the inside. You cannot see them with wheel on, so have to use measurements
    – mattnz
    May 26 at 20:56

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge that you have read and understand our privacy policy and code of conduct.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.