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I just bought a used bike and it is my first bike with internally routed cables. I felt that rear brake is not smooth and feels like the cable is rubbing against metal so I am trying to replace it.

I followed this video as it appears to have the same type of cable routing as my bike (i.e. only the inner cable fits in the frame hole)

However, after I replaced the inner and outer cables the rubbing is still there, it seems to be caused by either the cable entrance or exit. Am I missing something in the cable assembly?

P.S. The bike has Shimano Ultegra 6800 if that helps enter image description here enter image description here

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  • Was the bike new from a shop? Does it have a warranty ?
    – Criggie ♦
    Commented Jun 1, 2023 at 19:19
  • @Criggie No, I bought it used.
    – Metal Mathematician
    Commented Jun 1, 2023 at 19:20
  • Are you able to run full-length housing through the frame?
    – Paul H
    Commented Jun 1, 2023 at 20:04
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    @MetalMathematician I have recently replaced my internally routed derailleur cable which was running less than smooth and found that inside the frame the cable went through a thin plastic liner, very similar to this one. In my case the liner was somehow bunched up creating extra friction. Perhaps you have something similar with your brake cable?
    – Saaru Lindestøkke
    Commented Jun 18, 2023 at 20:26
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    Hope it solves your issue, feel free to post an answer when you figured out what works. I understood that the purpose of the liner was not to help with entry/exit of the cable (as the caps do that you ordered) but with routing the cable through the frame. Once I debunched my liner, I could remove the metal cable and guide the new cable through the old liner. That went much easier than trying to shove a new cable without a liner through the frame (the cable kept catching and wouldn't come out on the other end).
    – Saaru Lindestøkke
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 7:41

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I would second the idea of trying a continuous liner housing set. It is possible that the cable is rubbing on the metal ferrule where it passes into the frame. As Saaru in the comments notes, it is common on high end bikes like this to have and internal liner inside the frame. This liner is often there from the factory to feed the cable, (initial assembly), but there are often cases where the ferrules don't point at each other in a straight line through the frame, in such cases the cable can rub on the ferrule as it makes the bend into and out of the frame. Continuous liner housing kits are made so that the teflon tube around the cable can pass uninterrupted from lever all the way to the brake; Jagwire Elite sealed brake kit is one such product. This type of housing is commonly used on cyclocross bikes for ease of maintenance but can be a problem solver on bikes like yours. You will find that it will take much longer to set up this type of housing. Make sure that the first three ferrules are very firmly pressed on the housing and that ferrules are firmly up in the frame. Run the cable under tension carefully mark the liner, then back out the cable a bit before cutting the liner. Make sure that the cable is not inside the liner that you cut! You should plan that the liner will be very slightly short of the housing (1 to 2mm) at the end so that the liner won't buckle along its run. "Measure twice, cut once."

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  • wow thanks, this does explain exactly what I have been dealing with. I was not aware of the "sealed brake kits" but it seems to be exactly what I need. Thanks for the write up.
    – Metal Mathematician
    Commented Jul 27, 2023 at 11:55

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