Your choices all revolve around your intended chainline. Secondarily, you need to figure out if that chainline can be made to work on your bike with that size ring, or how bad the compromise will be if not.
Were you asking about the road version of the eewings and a normal road/gravel drivetrain, you could be choosing between the 1x and 2x spiders if you wanted (for whatever reason) to use 110mm BCD rings as opposed to DM. The 1x spider would put a normal non-offset 5-bolt 110mm ring at around the chainline a 142x12 1x road rear end expects it to be, and the 2x would in turn play nice with contemporary road double FDs and 142x12 2x rear ends. Or, you could use any of the other third party SRAM DM spiders, and the list goes on.
We know you intend to pair a 44/46/48t ring with Eagle, which is unusual and would typically cause frame clearance problems at the chainstay on any bike that came with it. If that's true you'll need to make a study of whether you can cheat the chainline out enough to clear and still have a reasonably functional drivetrain. Your tools for doing that will be using a chainring offset you wouldn't otherwise choose, tweaking the effective offset by adding chainring spacers, or potentially reshuffling or adding BB spacers. Since these cranks use a ring-type preload adjuster, they do have some ability to vary the total amount of BB spacer used. What's important is you always have full engagement of the teeth that secure the crank and can torque the bolt normally without any binding. In other words, you can add or reshuffle spacers to the drive side of the spindle as long as the preload adjuster is still the thing that brings the bearing adjustment from too loose to just right, and also as long as the spindle is still contacting the bearings on an area where it's intended to.
Assuming no clearance problems, the conversation is about how to get the chainline on a 44/46/48t ring to where you need it to go. Which offset you'd need to reach each chainline if you were running DM is listed in the documentation for the cranks below. SRAM 3-bolt DM rings in any of those sizes barely exist, and mostly as Alibaba-type off-brand products you may or may not want to commit to dealing with. If you pass on those then you're looking at doing this with one of the spiders, since that's the way to use whatever 110 5-bolt ring you want. They will typically all be flat, 0mm offset. The documentation for the spiders let us know they're all 7.5mm offset, and from the documentation for the mountain cranks you can infer that means the 1x spider takes you to 47.5mm chainline, which is likely problematic for Eagle on 142x12 since it's far enough in that involuntary pickup on the big cogs will probably occur, though that can depend on chainstay length. You could potentially buy up to around 4-5mm to get a little further out by either adding chainring spacers and/or using BB spacer tricks. Opinions differ about the limits of how much spacer you want under the chainring, but I tend to feel up to 3mm is safe. There have been cranks that always use that much. Very powerful riders may run into problems with the bolts loosening or breaking eventually. Use steel chainring bolts if you're running spacers.
If 47.5 is way too far in, the question then becomes what does mounting a flat 110mm NW ring in the outer position on the 2x spider get you. That isn't a spec they give; the chainring spacing they're made to output is probably in the realm of 5-7mm. Assuming 6mm, it moves the chainline 3mm out to the right, so in other words it makes the spider act like a 4.5mm offset ring, so 51.5mm-ish, which can be tuned out from there with chainring spacers to be anywhere in the realm of what a Boost frame would expect. Again, you're likely doing all this within the context of splitting hairs on frame clearance. You could get the 2x spider in hand so you can take the measurements needed to dial and sanity check it. You'll also want a range of chainring spacers and bolts to work with, since you could potentially need more bolt length than what a 1x set will tend to give.