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How many miles on this bike? If over 5000 miles (8000km) then your rear gear cluster may be worn out. Your symptoms are most strongly suggestive of that. Otherwise, the first thing to do is to clea …

rear wheel somehow (sometimes you can hang the nose of the seat on something, eg, or see if the rental place doesn't have a work stand) and crank the pedals with your hand while you shift through the gears …

Cross-chaining is a mythical beast. Yes, it's best to avoid riding significant distances with the chain at a wide angle, but you pretty much can't shift a bike without doing it occasionally, and ther …

It sounds like you're talking about the tooth difference, and not the horizontal spacing between cogs. Most cassettes are "uneven" in this sense. It does not affect indexed shifting, so long as the …

Well, the freewheel/freehub is frozen, apparently. Generally nothing to do but replace that component (repair is possible but difficult). But there are two other possibilities: Look between the bi …

The cable needs adjusting. A new cable will tend to stretch and go out of adjustment, so they should provide a free adjustment after replacing it.

Replacing a hub is not a "simple" procedure -- it, at a minimum, involves relacing the rear wheel, probably with different sized spokes (whose size you must accurately determine). Relacing is not bey …

There are several gear calculators on the web where you can input the tooth counts of your gears and it will show you the ratios. … You can the observe the order of the ratios and see how you might shift between gears to hit every gear in order. …

The Park Tool web site is generally the first place to go for info on how to do different bike repairs/adjustments. But adjusting a derailer is fairly simple if you understand the basic principles. …

My standard approach, and the approach I'd recommend for starting, is to use the front derailer to select a "range" -- big ring for flat road with no headwind, middle ring for slightly more challengin …

It should be noted that, before long-cage derailers became common (roughly 1985), it was not uncommon for the large/large cog combo to lock up the chain. This was considered "normal", and cyclists si …

Such a design allowed fine tuning of the gear ratio, while still allowing the gears to span a broad range. …

If you reduced the size of the large ring substantially it would probably be "recommended" that you to adjust the front derailer and shorten the chain (though from a mechanical limits/clearance point …

On a non-derailleur bike with nuts on the rear axle, and horizontal dropouts, the way to adjust the wheel angle is to pull the chain-side axle all the way back against the chain, tighten the nut just …

By "gears" I assume you're talking about the rear sprockets, or perhaps the smallest front sprocket, since they're about the only "gears" that are made of steel. …