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Sugru might be a workable fix, but would likely cost as much as new hoods in the first place. Wrapping bar tape around the existing hoods may help, as long as it doesn't foul the movement of the leve …

Over a year later, I did some googling and to my surprise, yes these are a thing. However they're rare and not popular, so may be hard to source. Common Solutions Safety Levers, common during the 80 …

There are three "parts" or zones to a cable-operated brake. 1) The hand lever 2) Inner cable and outer housing 3) The caliper. So you released the inner cable from the caliper. Try pulling the …

There are two sorts of brake lever that would suit this description - given mention an older ten speed you're probably remembering these: Sometimes called Suicide Brakes, or secondary levers/safety l …

I'd call it a lock ring. It is possible to buy a "barrel adjuster" like this, which will replace the hollow bolt and the lock ring. Do be aware there are at least two thread sizes where the adjuster t …

Do you care about originality ? Consider changing the brifters for something made from plastic or carbon because as you've noted, they don't suffer the same issue. Likely to be an expensive solution …

Flip the fitting 180 degrees, so the mounting bolt points into the middle of the curve. That will allow a little more room. Then push it around to the final resting place and lastly spin it on the ba …

Ideally buying the part would be easiest, but finding the part to buy could be a whole lot of work. Identifying a part number is your first task there. If I was in this position, I'd try two solution …

Initial thoughts: I see an internal circlip being used in some weird way. These are supposed to sit inside a groove machined inside a bore, and therefore are fully supported by the groove all the way …

I have 3dprinted bushings in the past for non-critical items like lights and other accessories. However brakes are safety-critical, and experience high-leverage. I'd suggest printing up this starter, …

Your brake inner cable has been torn from the head, and the head is either stuck in the lever or has fallen out on the road. You need to buy and fit a replacement inner cable. I'd suggest replacing …

That's for changing the cable-pull of the lever. L will be a long-pull for V brakes or similar. The cable end-stop is further from the pivot, and therefore travels through a longer arc. H pulls less …

@ArgentiApparatus is correct - 9 clicks is 10 speeds. Your lever starts at one end, in a gear position, and the first click puts it into the second position. Thus there is one fewer click than gear …

Those are drop bar brakes, with an auxilliary brake lever for the tops. They are also known colloquially as "sissy bars/levers" for people who can't or won't ride on the hoods. Some people refer to …

Your photo looks like barcons or bar-end shifters with cyclocross interrupter brake levers. Another option might be mounting regular old brifters on the up-curved part of the bullhorn, so the brake l …