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Depends how well the chain and chainring mesh. Assuming perfect alignment, exactly half the teeth are engaged. In the real world, the chain will be somewhat elongated. … So 22 degrees over 180 gives 202 degrees of the chainring are touching the chain. 202/360 shows 56.1%of the chainring, which is 29.18 teeth, so 29 teeth in contact with the chain, highest possible value …

Another option is to clamp the lower crank in a vice and use a hammer and brass drift into the three notches. Downside, heavy blows are likely to distort the metal, so use more but gentler taps. A …

You could try buying a smaller chainring, but that will loose you your higher gears for going fast. If you never use them, that's probably OK. … Another option is to replace the whole right crank arm and spider with a double or triple chainring. This depends on the interface between the bottom braket and the crank. …

SO if you're already on an 11 tooth small cof on your cassette, the only option is to upsize the front chainring. Your main problem is clearance for a larger chainring. … If your existing chainring is rivetted onto the crank spider then you're stuck, and will have to buy a new crankset. Otherwise you'll need to find the BCD of your existing chainring. …

Lastly, fit up your new chain, and while its clean use one hand to press the chain into the chainring in one spot. Then "sweep around" the chainring with the other hand. … If there's significant space between the chain and chainring by the time you get to a point 180 degrees opposite, then the chainring is worn. …

This might be okay, or could cause premature wear on chain and chainring and cassette. … For maximal frugalness, just replace the worn chainring. …

Now, onto the real chainring. Position the bare chainring under the drill press. … Use the same trick as above to locate the chainring under your bit, and clamp down the chainring to the board and clamp that to the stage of your pillar drill. …

Additionally, a 1x chainring is likely to be "narrow-wide" to help with chain retention. … work very poorly on a multi-chainring setup. …

The 42 chainring limits your top speed a little, and the 11 tooth rear will have mechanical loss of efficiency compared to a 12 or 13 tooth. There is nothing wrong with your combination. …

I'd put it down to one or more of Your leg is too powerful for the cheap bike Your chainring was extra weak right there There was a stone or stick jammed in the chainring that made the chain only partially …

That last photo shows the chain on a smaller chainring. Notice the air-gap under the chain? That is a clear sign that the chainring is worn and the "effective" gap between teeth is now larger. …

Yes that chainring is noticeably worn. When comparing the two photos, focus on the top and you can see the tips lean to the right in one shot and to the left in the other shot. … If you never ever use the inner chainring, this might be a good time to consider a 1x setup so a narrow-wide single chainring. …

Generally speaking, a frame/wheel hub that is fitted with a 8/9/10 speed cassette can take any of 8/9/10 speed because they're all the same width, just pack an extra cog or two in by thinning down the …

Great video - shows that your chain is riding up on the teeth of the single chainring, and then dropping back down into the teeth or off to the inside. … I doubt its the chainring teeth, they look fine other than having paint scraped off. First, get a marker pen and do the same setup as video. …

Likewise, the smaller chainring might have a "just right of normal" so a small-small combo avoids rub. … An indexed front shifter for a double chainring might therefore have 2, 3, or 4 positions and they're not equally spaced. …