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The answer depends a little on the exact model and how deep you need to go. In general the problem is that replacement parts aren't available new if something is broken, and if nothing is broken then …

The leverage curve that an individual caliper provides will never be published, but if you have the brake, you have the information. Take the pads out, poke a cable through so that the head is sitting …

It's possible, unequivocally. The first ones were just this, run by Dieter Runkel. The specifics of how you would do it depend on the levers you're working with. Generally speaking it's going to invo …

Most levers come with some lubrication at the ball tip of the plunger (aka reach screw), so hopefully some of that escaping is all you're seeing to suggest you've lost fluid. When the snapring pops ou …

If the FR-5s were producing more braking power than a crosstop, that would suggest that the particular long-reach sidepulls you have feature actuating arms that are also extra long, or you're running …

If it's obstinate about going any further than pictured, you could tighten the lever on now with normal torque and then loosen it back and see if the band clamp takes a new set at all, which might hel …

I am going to assume you have the more recent Saint brakes, BR-M820. A true blockage in a ceramic-piston Shimano brake such as yours that occurs when fluid should be able to flow through as per the bl …

The lever stopping with a firm bite with 2cm to the bar on an Elixir does not necessarily indicate you could do better. Firm means there is no significant amount of air between the master cylinder and …

You may have a hard time finding someone to tell you exactly what's under there in terms of the architecture and what part bears how much load, since replacement parts aren't available to service or r …

When a brake needs to be pumped like that and then feels better, the typical reason is that there's air in a reservoir type system such as Shimano and some others. Pumping it moves the air up into the …

There's not a reasonable way of doing it unless you're content with having it look really funny. The closest it comes is on some internally routed bars, the run of housing between the lever and the en …

It's a Tektro RL340, or the same lever under another name. Cane Creek SCR-5 hoods are the readily obtainable option. Tektro made variants of this lever for a bunch of brands, including their own, but …

Aurigas don't have bite point adjustment. For the most part it's a feature found only on some upper end hydraulic brakes. The rear brake being a little softer and longer to engage is normal since the …

There are three paths that each have pros and cons. Microshift BS-M11s with your existing derailleurs and switch to either mechanical brakes or Hylexes. The Gevenalle levers mentioned in EarlGrey's …

If the lever travel/bottoming problem got worse when you replaced your pads, that's a little unusual. There is no way on these brakes to adjust the "bite point," otherwise known as lever travel. If i …