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As mentioned in Criggie's answer, if the new chain is slipping on either of the used chainrings then you have your answer as to excessive wear of the rings and they'll need replacing. From my perspect …

A Shimano "General Operations" manual states the tightening torque for road chainwheels is 12-14 N-m. For mountain bike chainwheels it's upped to 14-16 N-m for large and middle ring and 16-17 N-m for …

A 5 or 6 mm hex wrench (aka: hex key) and standard screwdriver are tools needed for chainring replacement. …

From Shimano's technical documents website, here are the pertinent documents related to your SM-CRM75 direct mount chainring. None of the documents refer this area of the chainring. … All that detail aside, if your chainring is less than a year old and you purchased it from a place that is certified to sell Shimano parts, I would inquire about a warranty replacement because that happening …

Shimano makes the TZ510 7-speed freewheel which is 14-34 teeth. It generally retails for under $20. You'll need to get a "freewheel removal tool" which is a splined tool on one side while the other …

There are few if any models of 9 speed derailleurs with a clutch system, which, when combined with a narrow-wide chainring, are the two most important aspects of a 1x system to keep the chain on the drivetrain …

The M391 crankset is a 104mm BCD, however, as noted in the comments, not any 4 bolt, 104 BCD chainring will be a direct swap fit. … The interior portion of the chainring--the 4 areas with the bolt holes that communicate with the crank spider can have differing dimensions and shapes which interferes with the chainring fitting on to …

In the past with other models its possible to grind material off the chainring to make it fit. … So determine the allowable size of chainring to avoid interference with the frame. At least 3mm between chainstay and chainring teeth is necessary. …

The proper height for the front derailleur brings it to between 1 & 3 mm above the largest chainring. … This move is when in the large chainring and you're moving up the cassette, chainrub is encountered as the chain reaches larger rear sprockets. …

The outer cage should be about 2mm above the teeth of the large chainring and the flat, lateral surface of the outer plate should be parallel to the outer surface of the chainring. … Final set up is the middle chainring. Here the chain should be on the largest cog in back and, of course, the middle chainring. …

A 14 mm (or possibly a 13 or 15 mm) socket should do the trick for removal. You won't be able to budge the crank arms after removal of these. For this you'll need a Crank puller. One aspect of thi …

Welcome to Bicycle Stack Exchange! The "D-type" wording describing the chainrings and crankset is not a common usage term for most bicycle enthusiasts. In fact, what it probably means here in the Tom …