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I live fairly close to you (just north of the boarder ), and I own studded Schwalbe winter marathons (700x40c). I only use them maybe one to two weeks out of the year. While a bit of a luxury they a …

In terms of comfort getting the right tire pressure for your body weight will likely have a bigger effect than 2mm gain in the tire width. …

Clamp the inflated tire (regular pressure) in a well secured workshop vice. You want to clamp the tire itself at the point where it dips. … Make sure you only clamp the tire and not the rim and don't forget to flip the wheel and repeat for the bead on the other side. An LBS showed me this trick when I had a stubborn tire. …

I believe this is done to create a more supple tire (larger volume tires can be run at a lower pressure) while reducing rolling resistance. … A tire profile that is perfectly found tire will be the same in both. I don't know if any manufacturers are doing this. …

Kinks should disappear once the tire is mounted and inflated and the bead is under tension. …

Because you are not dealing with mud, a slick tire or nearly slick tire will work quite well for the short sections of gravel you are encountering. … Slicks however can have a surprising amount of traction on dirt, as long as you don't push the tire to the point that it slips. …

The Continental GP 4000 are a high end road tire, were as Espoir Sport are a middle tier tire. … Top end Specialized road tires are fairly comparable to Continental (years back Specialized snagged one of Continental’s lead tire guru). …

The first tire measurement you mentioned 44 622 refers to the tire width of 44 mm and rim bead seat diameter of 622 mm respectively. … The differences in tire widths you are seeing (i.e., 42, 44, 45, 47) likely corresponds to the fact the final tire diameter depends on the combination of tire and rim widths (i.e., the same tire can have …

In that case which tire is more comfortable depends on how you set up the tire and your riding conditions. … Background "Stiffness" relates to tire construction and casing tension (i.e., tire pressure). …

From your update it looks like you did all the right things. In the photo, and after your tweaks, the bike looks to be correctly sized, he has a nice upright position and his elbows are slightly bent …

It really looks like the bead has torn away from the tire. You can verify by taking the tire off and looking for a metal wire (like a big loop) is exposed in the corresponding area. … Without an intact bead, the tire will not properly adhere to the rim when inflated (consistent with your description). …

Tire construction Unfortunately, tire construction is a confounding factor when discussing performance of large volume tires. … All things being equal, a larger volume tire will also be heavier than a narrower tire. Add in heavy duty construction found on most high volume tires, and you end up with a much heavier tire. …

I usually keep the tire oriented so the tire label is over the valve stem. That way when dealing with a flat I can track the tube flat back to the tire location quickly. … Then I running my bare hands around the inside found tire until I find the sharp that penetrated the tube. …

The initial tubeless tire setup can go quickly if you have the right tools and a bit of practice, so this isn’t the barrier, rather it’s the tire and rim cleanup after a tire removal that is the main drawback … to frequent tire swaps. …

Some people like to remove the tire and clean everything out, which is the best option, but requires you being able to seat a tubeless tire, which can at times be difficult depending on the tire/rim combination … The tubeless tire pictured below have very weepy sidewalls to begin with, even without cord damage, and the manufacturer recommends Orange as one of the few sealants that will work on this tire. …