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34

There are basically four solutions that do not involve extensive work on your bike: Roll up the pant-leg on the gear-side high enough to stay away from the gears. Wear tight fitting cycling pants that don't flap. Use braces as you have, or clips such as these to keep your flappy pants close enough to your legs. Stuff the pant-leg on the gear side in your ...


12

I have found that the top of and old sock over a neatly folded trouser leg works well.Cut the top of the sock long enough to cover your pants with leg fully extended to the top of the sprocket.The plus side is you don't ruin good socks stretching them over your pants.


8

Yes, there is. Shimano/SRAM & compatible seven speed is 5mm cog-to-cog, and eight is 4.8mm. Generally what you're trying to do here can't be made to work very well. There are some tricks that without any additional parts can increase the movement of the derailer, but not decrease it. Also if you have a true 7-speed-only chain (not common anymore but they ...


8

The hub is adjusted too tight, or there is damage to the bearing track which cause higher than normal friction when the bearings are compressed. You're on the right track.


7

Simple: Just take two rubber bands and stretch them around the bottom of your pants. Done! :)


6

I had the same problem (48x38x28 chainset). It turned out that MF-TZ21 is actually not a 'cassette', but a 'freewheel'. Your options for that are very limited: In the UK, Raleigh is distributing a 7 speed 13-24T model for less than 10 quid. SunRace is still producing 7 speed freewheels, but the closed-spaced 12-?? model wasn't distributed in the UK: Check ...


6

The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number. As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually use......


6

There's an old joke. Man says to his doctor "It hurts when I do this." Doctor says "Don't do that." If you've got a multi-speed bike and the shifting doesn't work well, the solution is to fix the shifting mechanism, not to avoid shifting. As others have said, the whole point of having multiple gears is to let you ride at a more efficient cadence, which lets ...


5

8 speed shifter and cassette, 7 speed derailleur? You'll be fine. There's no "probably" about it. 6-, 7- and 8-speed gear is all cross-compatible in terms of chain width. The only time you'd hit a problem is if the shifter and the cassette weren't made for the same number of gears, for example you could imagine a scenario (e.g. 7-speed cassette, 8-speed ...


4

Cold setting a 114mm to 130mm is significant. Usually the rule of thumb for cold setting is you can go up one step, such as from a 126mm to 130mm or 120mm to 126mm. A three speed freewheel bicycle is extremely rare and I'd personally leave it alone, it's just too valuable to risk destroying the frame.


4

As you suspected, you may not run a 7 speed free hub with a 9 speed hub shell. You will need a new 9 speed free hub, and continue to use the spacer ass you have been. Hubs are not generically sized. Each model is sized for the number of gears it is expected to work with. Replacing the freehub will mess with your dropout spacing, or the position of the ...


4

When I was a teenager, the "tight roll" was in style. Nowadays I use it nearly every day to keep my pants out of the chain. It works better than anything else I've ever tried, is totally free, and you don't have to carry anything around with you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants And here's a video about how to do it:


4

1984 – Shimano introduced Dura-Ace 7400 series with Shimano Index System (SIS) the first successful indexed-shifting system in cycling history. It was a 6-speed (7 and 8-speed later) system with indexed shifters mounted on the down tube. From http://cycling-passion.com/dura-ace-history/ Your front mech is given as a FD7400B, which doesn't really carry a ...


4

For the shifter to match, you need to match the number of speeds, cassette width and shifter actuation ratio. For Shimano everything under 10 speeds (except 8-speed Dura Ace which most people don't have to care about) has the same actuation ratio, so all you need to know is the new shifters are 7-speed Shimano. These can still be bought.


3

The 7-speed cassette standard has been functionally discontinued for new wheels. Most new wheels come in 8-10 or 8-11 speed compatibility. Since the 7-speed cassette bodies were shorter, you can install a 7-speed cassette on a 8-speed body using a 4mm spacer behind the cassette. Alternatively, as you said, you can use the 7 shifter on an 8 cassette, you'...


3

Adding two or four teeth to the largest chainring will not improve you high gear very much. Right now your highest ratio is 48/14=3.429. Going to 52 will get you to 52/14=3.714, which is not much of an improvement. It is better to focus on the rear, where 48/11=4.364 Going to a new wheel set you need to check that the wheel is the proper width for the ...


3

This product should work, Leg Shield. Covers your pant leg from your ankle to right below your knee. http://www.bikelegstrap.com/


3

In addition to velcro and clips, you can use "slap bracelets." Badge holder lanyards from conventions work well, too (but only the ones with alligator clips). Wrap it once around, put the clip end through the closed end and pull it tight. The clip will hold it tight. (pics later)


3

Get a 8 - 12" piece of velcro, loop side, then adhere a 3" self sticking hook side on the end of the inside. Tuck and wrap. $1.50 cost. I have had mine for 5 years, using it almost daily with no issues.


3

If you are a casual cyclist on flat terrain, without a lot of stops you can get away with not changing gear very much. Learning how to effectively change gear at stops and as the grained changes can make cycling more comfortable and efficient. Never shifting is possibly contributing to chain problems. You will be putting more stress on the chain when you ...


2

As long as you're not adding larger cogs than you've got on right now, your existing chain should be a functional length. One more thing to consider is that if your current chain has significant wear, running it with a new cassette can damage the cassette (effectively very rapidly turning your "new" cassette into your "old" cassette), so even though your ...


2

Pretty much it doesn't matter - as long as the derailleur is comparable in brand and general "shape". The derailleur doesn't really care how many gears you have! The two things that have to be the same as (or compatible with) your old one: Cable pull ratio - each "click" of your shifter pulls the cable a certain amount, and the derailleur has to move by ...


2

Personally I would not stretch it that far. Aside from spacing you should check if your frame has derailleur hanger, and cable stops. Lastly you would have to ensure proper chain line after the stretch, possibly requiring BB and/or crank set change.


2

The easiest option is just stick to your original plan of changing ratios in the rear. There there should be Shimano compatible 11-28 or 12-28 freewheels out there. I found one made by DNP after a little googling. (Note, not a recommendation, just an example). You local bike shop should also be able to help you find a suitable freewheel. Re your other ...


2

Basically all the <=9 speed Shimano rear derailleurs are compatible with the <=9 speed Shimano shifters (excluding some old Dura-ace and a few other weird exceptions). So, you need to match: 1) Being within the capacities of the derailleur (max tooth, min tooth, chain capacity -- based on the chainring and cog sizes) 2) # of speeds on the shifter = # ...


2

Clearly this post is in regards to a newer Schwinn rather than the originals from the '50s and '60s, as the latter were all equipped with Sturmey Archer internal-gear hubs. Searching for "Jaguar" on the Schwinn website yielded nothing so apparently Jaguars aren't manufactured anymore. Getting a little more desperate, I consulted the Walmart website and ...


2

Pretty sure that the MF series has the freewheel integrated with the cassette, so if you are going to a "pure" cassette, you will need to replace the freewheel and possibly the hub. You would need to replace the hub if you can't find a conversion to a non-integrated freewheel for your current hub. If the hub gets replaced, that could affect the disk as well....


1

Bad for you or the bike ? For the bike, I don't think so, unless the selected gear has the chain is "cross chained", this will wear the chain quickly. See: https://road.cc/content/feature/213468-cross-chaining-it-really-all-bad For your body, yes, maybe, if you need to put too much pressure on your knees when climbing. The goal of shifting is to keep a ...


1

If you want something nice, using an 8/9/10 crank here shouldn't be a huge problem but it may take some fiddling to work well. If it says 10, you will probably have to use .6mm Wheels Mfg spacers or similar under the large and small rings to avoid chain rub in some gears. Putting on an 8-speed chain will also help eliminate that problem and should still work ...


1

You need to figure if the chain is falling off the right, the left, or sliding forwards over the teeth. And at which end the sliding happens. Replacing the chain is a good idea, but if its been left too long then the teeth on the cassette can be worn to fit it. At extreme cases the chainrings can also wear with the chain. Most good bike shops will ...


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