Personally, I'd recommend a new inner cable from the shop.
That is your brake that you are playing with and how important is it that they work when you use them?
There will be a you tube video on line on how to replace an inner cable, and it's not too difficult, as it's a normal service procedure
You probably won't need to unwrap the bar tape - simply release the inner wire from the pinch nut/bolt on the brake, possibly pull off any end cap crimp, and pull the wire all the way up and out.
Retwist any loose strands of brake cable so it lies flat. I suggest you use a drop of superglue now on the very end to keep it all together. When set, carry on.
Here's an annotated rotated version of your photo:
To get the wheel in:
Pull the RUBBER BOOT to the right, slide it along the INNER CABLE toward the PINCH BOLT
Squeeze the BRAKE ARMS together at the top. This allows the NOODLE to move to the left, permitting the YOKE to swing away from the NOODLE. When the bike is upside down like yours, it may need a ...
Most V brakes can be disengaged by the process the manual says. Anther term for this part is the cable-hook link or the cradle and the noodle. Some most-basic V-brakes do not have this feature and may require releasing the cable-fixing bolt.
The process is shown in this video
Then you will have to properly setup the ...
There are two ways to assemble a new bike.
The right way
The way it's usually done
To answer your question:
The front brakes need to be widened to fit the wheel, it says to 'disengage the cable guide tube from it's yoke'. Not sure where or how and I don't want to force anything and break it.
It looks like you are concerned with getting the front ...
The SRAM Apex line includes flat bar trigger shifters.
I don't think there are flat bar brake levers compatible with Apex hydraulic calipers, so you'd be looking at getting separate MTB levers and calipers. SRAM MTB and Road levers and calipers are not compatible with each other - see this answer.
"Safety levers" are more commonly called "suicide levers" -- they are hazardous to use and make the operation of the regular brake levers more problematic.
A better choice, if you feel you need something along these lines, are "interrupter levers", also called "in-line brake levers" and "cross levers".
I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to do. So I'll answer all three possibilities:
If you plan to shorten the brake cable up to the point where all strands are good, shortening the housing correspondingly: Make sure that you retain enough length and go for it. Note that the brake cable/housing needs to handle any angle of the handle bar that is ...
If it's only one strand then you can safely cut it off. The problem is that this leaves a jagged end that will hang when you try to thread it, so some very careful work is required to get the cut end bent tightly back against the remaining cable. Often this is more trouble than it's worth.
I'm going to disagree with Criggie's answer here.
It looks to me like the cable itself has come unraveled and the outer housing is fine. I would not recommend cutting that brake cable or trying to rewrap the loose thread. Simply throw it away. Failure of that cable would be catastrophic. Brake cables are really cheap. It's not worth the risk to try to save ...
If its the outer housing that has come loose, the main risk is cutting the outer too short. Depends on how much slack there is - an outer cable has to have enough slack for the fork/bars to turn without binding, and also enough slack so the calipers can pull without binding (this last bit is more of an issue on rear rim brakes)
You will ...
I'll tell you my scenario and what worked for me.
I'll list, in chronological order, all the changes I made, because in the end it might have been a combination of changes which fixed the problem and not the final step alone.
The bike: a steel hybrid bicycle with v-brakes; single walled rim, with black anodization; new brake pads.
Rim condition: the ...