New answers tagged

3

I am a maker of custom bikes for kids and small adults. I am a heavy user of the interrupter-style levers, even for main brake levers. The main reason that I use them is that they are easy to adapt to a custom bracket which fits smaller-diameter handlebars and smaller hands. Another great benefit, they are some of the lightest levers available, period, at as ...


1

I can only speak to #1 "Can it decrease the braking efficiency of the main levers?" Yes, it might, but not a certainty though. The amount of impact depends on the quality of your installation. Any join in the outer cable could allow compression, and cumulatively add toward sponginess in your brake lever. Also if the interrupter lever has a firm ...


0

I've read so many different opinions on mech disc brakes vs dual pivot sidepull brakes but I'm still not set either way... It sounds like you have a good understanding of the pros and cons. As others have suggested, the rim-brakes are likely to represent better value overall and are easier to maintain yourself. If you find that stopping power is not as good ...


0

A good rim brake system (specifically, linear pull/V-brakes and road, dual pivot caliper rim brakes) equipped with quality pads have very comparable performance to disc brakes, mechanical or hydraulic. When the associated higher costs of disc brakes, in both complete bikes or aftermarket upgrades, are evaluated against the very minimal advantages gained over ...


7

It's about distance, not force. Coil housing is not at all impaired in its ability to transmit force once any distance between its coils has been taken up (so no to your second question.) On any rim brake that doesn't have egregious bends, the practical difference between compressionless and coil housing is marginal. It's a little stiffer and more responsive ...


-2

There are two types of mechanical brakes: short pull and long pull. Short pull brakes include cantilevers and caliper brakes, plus some mechanical disc brakes. Long pull brakes include V brakes plus some mechanical disc brakes. Short pull has less cable pulled, but the force in the cable is larger so the product of force and cable travel is the same for both ...


1

Even with compressionless housing the best housing should still be kept the shortest possible. Even compression-free housing unless it consists of non-compressible metal beads will still have residual compression. This will carry as much as possible of the force applied to the cable to the callipers. From the front-lever to the brake, there isn't obviously ...


4

In a static situation, and with the same force applied to the lever, in all likelihood the ultimate braking force will be the same between compressionless and regular housing. But that's only part of the story. Housing compression essentially adds an element of "spring" or slack to the system. This extra amount of spring could cause a few different ...


4

This is quite a wide-ranging question with a number of points raised. Regarding the specific question of mechanical vs. sidepull, I can only agree with the previous commenters that you are likely to get better value and experience from the sidepull brakes, from my experience they are much easier to keep 'in tune' than disk brakes and will almost certainly ...


1

Good mechanical disc brakes (e.g. Avid BB7) can be very good indeed - plenty of stopping power, pads last for thousands of kilometers, not affected by weather. However, I've had varied experiences with cheaper mech discs, such as some Shimano models. The biggest problem seems to be a lack of stopping power when used with drop-bar levers (even though these ...


22

While specific shopping comparison questions are off-topic here due to their tendency to become obsolete, there is a perfectly good generic question here where these two bikes can be used as examples, so I will take that angle on it. The two bikes in question have similar price points, but the braking system on the disc one is eating a lot more of the price ...


10

I'm going to focus solely on the issue of mechanical disc versus rim brakes. All else equal, I would prefer rim brakes to mechanical disc. Mechanical disc brakes (and the hubs, and possibly the frame as well due to increased manufacturing complexity) are more expensive than rim brakes. This means that if the bikes have the same price, then the one with disc ...


1

I just got my front brake of the same model bled to a point where I'm happy. There's still a bit of sponginess, but the bike will stop. A few tips I found helpful: As Nathan said, put zip ties on all barb fittings. The tubing slipped off a barb twice before I smartened up and slapped some zip ties on there. Time to clean up two puddles of oil now...grrrrrrr ...


2

There is a unifying theme with bleeding Tektro and similar brakes: disregard the written procedures, don't trust the contents of any bleed kit to give you what you need, aggressively modify the kit parts, and make up your own rules. I follow manufacturer instructions faithfully when they work, like for Shimano, but for the Tektros and Promaxes of the world, ...


4

No, the stopping distance is not just traction limited - or at least not just by the wheel/road surface combination. Even if you can block your wheel with your rim brakes and get the wheel slipped, you might be able to stop faster with better modulation when you actually avoid the slip. The consistency in breaking in the disc brakes helps to predict the ...


2

I'm only going to answer an aspect of your question; you can apply it to your brake how you wish. Firstly, Certain Tekro models are fiddly to bleed but also feel like they need bleeding if the pads are worn down, so if you haven't put new pads in, I suggest you do that first. When something like this comes into a commercial workshop and this amount of time ...


1

If your frame lacks disk brake mounts now, then give up this idea, and look for a second/replacement bike or frame. There were dangerous "accessories" that provided brake mounts on frames bereft of them, but the frames weren't engineered for those loads and could fail. Likewise, adding mounts was no guarantee of success either. Example - this is a ...


1

If you're already planning on replacing your front fork, you should consider switching to disc brakes on at least the front. Disc brake mounts are now standard on suspension forks and it can be difficult to even find a fork with V brake mounts. Be sure to keep an axle-to-crown distance and fork travel similar to that of your current fork, or you'll end up ...


-1

I would like to know whether I can replace my old v-brakes with disc brakes. Do I need to also change the wheels or something else? Yes, you need to change the wheels -- or at least the hubs (and possibly spokes too). You also need to change the fork. Not to mention the frame. Also the brake levers are useless unless you buy mechanical v brakes with long ...


1

You need to have the appropriate mounts on the fork, the rear of the frame, and you need hubs that can accept disc rotors. My understanding is that some older MTB frames and forks had mounts for both V- and disc brakes. This was when the industry was starting to shift towards disc brakes. While I'm not familiar with MTBs, that might have been in the early ...


6

Not going to do anything, unless the bike weighs 300 lbs or something. Worst case if you're hanging and removing repeatedly you could scuff the paint, from the housing rubbing against the frame. But of course, your mounts pose the same risks.


4

If you do it often it could scratch the frame’s paint or damage the cable over time. I don’t think it will have any other ill effects. It’s basically the same as if you’d set the cable length or tension a few millimeters too short. You could unhook the cable at the brake (no need to open the clamping screw). Why don’t you hang it from the saddle?


3

The gap depicted for your Shimano brakes appears to be of similar dimension to a couple Shimano systems I run. The spacing is very close and I'm often truing the rotors to ride rub free. Shimano hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting in relation of the pad to the rotor, so that when the pad wears, the spacing stays the same. Bed your new brakes in properly ...


2

It appears that is some kind of fancy CNC'd aluminum ferrule. If so it might be a little chunkier than a regular one and randomly be able to encounter fit issues. If that is the case, assuming you're using normal spiral housing, all you have to do is get a normal plated brake ferrule like the one you had and you should be fine. If you're using ...


3

Further research shows there are two systems, Matchmaker and Matchmaker X. My Guide T brakes allow the use of Matchmaker and the new Eagle Shifters use Matchmaker X. It seems as though all of the other Guide brakes (including the R the bottom picture above) use Matchmaker X. I either need to find a Matchmaker clamp adapter like this https://www.sram.com/en/...


1

This two-seater has a rear differential, a central disc brake, a rear drum pedal brake and front rim brake. It's called "Side-by-Side" by PF Mobility of Denmark.


3

It looks like the T822. But I don't think you necessarily need an exact replacement. Shimano, Campagnolo, and other companies have made bottom-bracket direct-mounted brakes as well, and any of them would probably be a drop-in replacement, although clearance could be tight. I think the T850 would also work.


3

Its unclear to me what the actual problem is, apart from your feeling the pads are too close. If they are not pulling back far enough and rubbing the disc all the time, it could be stiffness just from being new and unused. Install them and ride... You could try to lube the piston and seals (remove pads, squeeze out pistons and drip oil on them then work them ...


1

I got a similar issue because the ring holding the disk got loose. It is certainly worth checking that everything is tighten to the proper torque (usually written on the part).


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