Hot answers tagged

63

There are (at least) two reasons. First, most (but not all) E-bikes use a control system that multiplies the amount of force or torque that you put into the pedals or cranks. Since power is the product of pedal speed and pedal force (or torque), increasing the torque allows the rider to reduce the pedal speed -- that is, the rider's cadence. Electric motors (...


50

In general studies have indicated that trained cyclists use pedaling frequencies higher than 90 rpm whereas untrained cyclists prefer frequencies around 60 rpm. I suspect the majority of e-bikers you encounter are not "trained" cyclists. Cycling co-opts a number of pathways we use for walking so people who are untrained typically cycle like they would walk, ...


36

Personally it's because I'm using my ebike to get to work, wearing work clothes (which restrict my pedalling) and not wanting to get too sweaty. If I were just out for a ride I'd pedal faster.


27

Left to their own devices many will cycle at a cadence (a measure of how fast you spin) that approximates cadence of walking, an RPM of about 50-60. So the fact you prefer a slower leg speed is not unusual. Trained cyclists will often have a cadence between 80-110 and up to 200 for sprints (track). Is there something bad about a cycling style in ...


26

Always "riding your hardest" is called "junk miles" because it is not possible to always ride your hardest. The biggest performance gains come from more targeted and disciplined riding (as suggested by mattnz). To climb your steep hills (I assume these are relatively short, steep climbs, not a mountain pass) you need to work on developing high power over ...


18

For me, as an occassional ebike rider, it feels I get kind of better connection to the bike when pedaling at lower cadence, but higher force. Because the electric assist otherwise reduces the needed force, it can feel like eternal downhill and it gets harder to sense your speed. But when I switch to higher gear so that I need to push harder on the pedals ...


17

In terms of losing weight immediately, the obvious answer is to use whatever gear combo allows you to produce the greatest energy output. For most people this will likely be a hair lower than the "preferred" range of about 70-90 RPM -- maybe 50-60, and pedaling as hard as you can. However, if you want to KEEP losing weight by getting on the bike again ...


16

Speed is determined only by gearing, of which crank, cassette, wheel, and tire are components Any 2 bikes using, say, 42t cranks with a rear 32t cog and 25c tires on 700c wheels at 90rpm will be going the same speed. Bike type and size, rider/bike weight, and even front wheel/tire size and crank length don’t matter. These other factors only effect how much ...


14

The only way to be sure is to measure. You can use an app such as Strava during the ride, then look at it's analysis later. It will show you how fast you were going at each point, and also gives an approximation of your power output. We don't know what algorithm or assumptions it uses to calculate the power, but since it uses just one algorithm you can ...


14

It could be that all they are doing is rotating the pedals - not because they have to input any force to make the bike go but because the motor will not run with receiving a continuous signal from a hall-effect switch coupled to the pedals. Thus the motor is enough to move the rider alone, but unless the rider is also rotating the pedals a cadence sensor ...


12

I get the impression when you hit the road its full out 110% effort for the length of the ride. I would suggest from the "lungs burning" description that you are over training and exercising above your anaerobic threshold. You don;t say how often or how far you ride. First up - your cadence is way too low and you risk damaging you knees. Go for a series ...


11

This is really a pretty complex question. Without knowing where you read about "steady cadence being a good thing" or what the author meant it is hard to evaluate this statement, but this SE.bicycles answer presents data showing that riders don't ride at a steady cadence. Rather, they alter their cadence according to conditions of the ride, the level of ...


11

The mechanical factors which translate pedaling rate to overall speed are: Gear ratio Size of wheels The weight of the rider is not relevant for this question. The weight of the rider would be relevant if you were asking about the power needed to keep the bike going, especially up any kind of hill.


11

The RPM Cadence Sensor from Wahoo can track your cadence based on the motion of your foot. On the product page it specifically mentions the following The RPM can be worn on your shoe for spin classes or use with multiple bikes Here's an article explaining how it can be used to track your GPS usage. It's important that it is mounted in the correct ...


10

This subject is about the performance on a bicycle Cycling is aerobic exercise in nature. 1) Fast twitch vs. Slow twitch muscle In high gear (low cadence and higher force per pedal stroke for the same output, in comparison to higher cadence) you recruit more of your fast-twitch muscle, and thus you are doing more anaerobic (not aerobic) exercise. It's OK ...


10

Time for some Pee You need to consider PACING yourself. Use something like strava to log your rides and see your improvements over time, because it never feels like you're getting faster at the time. I did a hill last weekend in 8 minutes that used to take me 15 minutes, 9 months ago. Didn't feel like it at the time. PEERS - riding alone is nice and quiet ...


10

Honestly, as an amateur cyclist I would suggest focusing on learning how to pace a climb first over more finer details such as cadence. Many amateur typically go out too fast on a climb, go anaerobic, accumulate a lactate debt, then find themselves suffering terribly the remainder of the climb. This gives most the idea the climbs are harder than they could ...


9

I also think the answer is "it depends", but for slightly different reasons to Daniel. I think it depends on why you're cycling. If you are training, then measuring cadence can definitely be useful. In fact, there are training programmes that are based around cadence. (You're basically looking for a high value, and a steady value.) Otherwise, the ...


9

Mountain bikers regularly run these low cadences for very short periods, often at much higher power output. The issue with causing damage to knees is more about the duration of the climb and how strong your stabiliser muscles are. (Too much time mushing causes chronic overuse problems, while weak stabiliser muscles can allow injury to happen), however they ...


9

All things being equal, aerobic exercise is probably best for losing weight (after all, the only way to lose weight is to breathe CO2 out your nose). If you use too high a gear, you might be less aerobic and more resistance training, which builds muscle mass. Either way, at this point, it sounds like getting yourself moving in whatever way you like will be ...


8

Through personal experience, I have found that the higher cadence method will always get me ahead of the group of commuters at the lights. I sometimes see the standing grinders but by the first downstroke of their crank arm, I am already gaining much more acceleration. The grinders are also wobbling all over the place because their centre of mass is much ...


7

Understand that the concern is not generally things like a muscle or tendon tear that can occur with, eg, extreme weightlifting -- off-road bikers might be susceptible to that sort of injury, but not a road biker. Rather, the concern is the injury that may be done to joint surfaces and structures due to repeated force, above some "tolerable" level, applied ...


7

Every rider has a different optimal cadence. You need to find yours. This will depend to some extent how you are feeling on the day ('Ohh that hurts' vs 'pain, what pain'). Most novice riders pedal too slowly, as they are not trained it feels 'wrong' and are not efficient at high cadence. If this is you, you optimal cadence may be faster than your most ...


7

64 watts is well within the margin of error of 60w target. Don't be afraid of going to your lowest gear on the trainer. You should be working up to your target cadence, if you can't hold 90 without bouncing then you should aim for something lower. It will take time to get up there. 60w is relatively low for most people, it may become easier for you to ...


7

Gear inches. Gear inches are, for better or worse, the most commonly recognized way of making the kind of comparison you're trying to make here, which one is harder to pedal. Gear inches are simply how far one complete rotation of the cranks moves the bike forward. The higher the number, the harder it is to turn the cranks. You hear people make reference to ...


7

There would likely be a small difference. If you have, eg, a bike with a rear tire that has a 68cm diameter, the effective tire diameter is reduced by the amount it compresses when the bike is carrying a rider. Let's say that the heavier rider is heaver by 80kg, and this causes the tire to compress an additional 1cm vs the diameter with the lighter rider. ...


7

This is a somewhat alternative solution, but you can use music. Find a tune that has a similar speed to your cadence, and google for "BPM (song name artist name)" https://tunebat.com/Info/The-Gambler-Kenny-Rogers/5KqldkCunQ2rWxruMEtGh0 So "The Gambler" by Kenny Rogers is 87 BPM, meaning you're pedalling at 87 RPM, or maybe at ~44 RPM if ...


6

No. You're correct that there is extra cost and hassle involved in collecting cadence. The question you need to answer for yourself is: does the benefit outweigh the cost. Since you don't seem to see any benefits, the answer is obviously no. You should buy things when they fill a need, rather than buying things because they are available. As far as ...


6

The power you transfer to the bike is proportional to the force on the pedals multiplied by the cadence. There's some upper limit to how much force you can apply, but you can spin more quickly. Sometimes if I'm overtaken by another bike (travelling faster than I am) I've found that I can keep up with that bike, if I change down into a lower gear and then ...


6

A Gates drive belt uses an 11mm pitch between teeth. A conventional bike chain is 1/2 inch or about 12.7mm. The upshot is that for the same tooth count, a drive belt component will be slightly smaller than the comparable roller-chain unit with the same tooth count. Good news - since the front chainring and rear cog use the same size, then the ratio is ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible