Modern chains have inner and outer links. On a conventional chainring, all of the teeth are the same width, and therefore have to be narrow enough to fit into the chain's inner links. This means that there's enough space for the chain to move about a bit from side to side on the chainring, which can cause it to fall off.
Historically this hasn't been much ...
If this happened over the course of 1 ride, it sounds like the wheel just slipped forward in the dropouts. If you loosen both nuts on the rear wheel axle and pull it backwards evenly, you should be able to retension the chain to proper working specs. Then just tighten it back to a torque of pretty f**ckin tight so it doesn’t slip again!
At our shop, we suggest a new cassette every 2 times you replace your chain, IF you stay on top of your maintenance schedule. With 99% of customers this would mean a new cassette every 1-2 years depending on how much you ride it. If you are a commuter and ride everyday, your timeframe for replacement gets much smaller.
We would also assess the condition of ...
What harm could it possibly do? The cranks are held firmly in place by the bottom bracket; the back wheel is held firmly in place in the drop-outs. The chain is completely non-structural: all it does is transmit power from the pedals to the rear wheel.
The only issues I can think of are
make sure you know how to remove and replace it, obviously;
I pretty ...
I use a tool made out of a steel wire clotheshanger to squeeze the two pins together and open the link.
Also, that one hanger turned into three tools: the link opener, a tool to hold the ends of an open chain together, and one to hang the cleaned-and-drying chain from the tree over the driveway.
I have been using paraffin wax this year on my "fast" road bike as a bit of an experiment. This was using the hot wax approach, where paraffin wax was melted (in a slow cooker) and a clean chain dipped in the hot wax.
Very clean drive train, even after 2000 km the cassette and rings sparkle. Straight paraffin (i.e., without bees wax) does not ...
When disconnected, a chain master link looks like this:
Opening this style requires pressure between the two pins, parallel to the length of the chain.
The proper tool is a special pair of pliers like this:
And in use look like this:
I think that I stretched the chain.
No, you most likely did not. Bicycle chains are very strong (and chains on children's bicycles are usually similar to chains on adult bicycles). Plus, if a chain is really overloaded, the links will separate (i.e. the chain will tear) before the force is great enough to actually stretch the chain material (which is ...
Belt drive + Internally Geared Hub is a popular combination.
Existing systems are based around a gates carbon belt drive. See the Breezer Beltway series bikes. Also Reeb Cycles began offering belt drives for mountain bikes when they first came to market.
Also, now there is a breakable belt system called Veer that doesn't require a frame cutout (though uses ...
In most cases with bicycle parts, more expensive means lighter. There can be exceptions, especially when you get to the super low end parts where cheaper can also mean cheaper construction.
Since you put so many miles on your bike and it seems important to you, I would spend the extra 2 pounds and grab the Acera. XT is generally used on mountain bikes where ...
It's safer and way easier just to buy another MissingLink (KMC's name for their master link design) of the same type (pin length) the chain came with, leaving you with an inner link that has one on either end. They're around $2US.
In addition to saving the trouble of getting the pin back in there, there's also the question of the integrity of modern outer ...
No, it shouldn't be necessary to replace a cassette after a month's use. However, unless you've had bad service from this shop in the past, I'd give them the benefit of the doubt and assume that it was a mistake, not a scam.
Bike shops deal with a lot of badly maintained bikes so I guess they're pretty much used to giving the "you need a new cassette" spiel ...
The secret is simple, you need to:
place the master link (the part with the pins) with the opening towards you,
bend (flex) the chain so the open ends of the pins come closer to each other,
put the flat part of the master link,
release the bend allowing the pins to snap into the flat part of the master link.
Since one picture saves 1000 words, they ...
No, lithium grease or similar grease compounds are in general not suitable for bike chains.
Bike chains need lubrication of inner surfaces between rollers. Chain lubes contain solvents to reduce viscosity enough to creep into these gaps. The solvent dissipates and leaves a high viscosity oil.
The surface does not need extra lubrication. It is best to ...
Found an English Language site that explains it. From
All Chamonixs feature Gazelle's innovative transmission design with a
chain tensioner inside the chain case. This keeps the chain always at
the correct tension, needing less maintenance and giving a quieter
First things first: A belt is probably slightly less efficient than a properly installed clean chain. The test you link already indicates that. Probably with the tension Gates requires you'll loose a bit more power.
On to your question:
The chain is 200 grams heavier than the belt, of course with the chain you get gears, which you don't get with a belt ...
A worn, stretched chain will accelerate wear on sprocket and chainring teeth. There will then be a greater chance that the chain will slip off of and override the sprocket teeth as you apply a power stroke through the crank. When this happens the pedal and your foot suddenly slips downward, which could throw you off the bike, especially if you were off the ...
You need to bend the chain. Look at this link (PDF) for the Connex Snap On which is the same idea. The PDF is reproduced below in case the thing goes down.
As an aside, you normally can get an alternative standard quick link (like a SRAM 8 speed powerlink) for these chains, rather than the Snap on type.
Your high CC-2 reading likely relates to how much pressure are applying. The CC-2 device is not particularly solid and its readings are sensitive to how much pressure you apply to the pivoting gauge.
From the manual:
Set pivoting gauge so “0” is visible in viewing window.
Lower CC-2 so fixed pin rests between chain’s inner plates.
In my experience - breakage is not directly correlated to wear. I've had bikes with unknown mileage on them, and have chosen to ride the transmission into the ground.
Generally the performance slowly deteriorates, with chain slip under power being a sign that things are getting bad.
Unlike other answerers, I've never had a worn transmission break and strand ...
The chain is too long. Presumably you did not cut it down to size it when you installed it.
All chains are sold with excess length and must be sized to the bike. The length required depends on the length of the chainstays and size of the largest chainring and sprocket.
The easiest way to size the chain is making it the same length as the old chain. You can ...
will this new 7-speed chain work on a 10-speed cassette?
That's based on my experience with a nine-speed chain shipped by mistake on a 10-speed drive train. That didn't work well - shifting was horrible at best and the chain wouldn't stay seated on some gears. If a nine-speed chain does that, a 7-speed chain will be unusable.
If it even fits through ...
You have a double front, right? The usual advice is to not shift into the highest 3 gears in the rear cassette when in front the chain is on the large chainring, and to not shift into the smallest 3 cogs, when the chain in front is on the small chainring.
This prevents cross-chaining, which wears the chain quickly, produces noise and difficult shifting. ...
Each set of "inner plates" is a link. Each set of "outer plates" is a "link."
In the photo below you can see two whole links.
Thus to answer the question, Image A in the question above has 4 links. Image B has 8 links.
When you buy this box of chain that is labeled as having "120 links" and is standard 1/2" pitch, you should expect to get 60 inner ...
It is possible to open the link without the "special tool" that Criggie's answer uses.
The trick is to get the chain loose/slack so you can fold it back on itself such that the master link is at right angles to the two adjacent links. Then you use a regular pair of pliers, held at an odd angle (helps to contort your mouth as you do this), to apply pressure ...
You have a zero cost solution, which is to keep the front derailleur but remove the cable (and shifter if you like). Then use the FD limit screws to fix it in the right position to act as a chain guide.
You don't need a 1x chainring, in fact using one with a 7 speed chain is probably less than ideal, so you're actually better off sticking with an existing ...
That means that "drive" is coming in through the rear wheel.
Normally there's a one-way escapement in the rear wheel's hub called a freewheel or a freehub, but they do the same job, which is to let the rear wheel spin when the cassette remains still.
Yours sounds like it has sufficient dirt in it to carry a rotational torque across the interface. Fancy ...
This question leads to one of the great religious debates of the bicycle culture. Ask ten mechanics which chain lube is best, you'll get ten different answers. The honest answer is "it depends on your maintenance habits and the weather and your preferences, so you should try some different things until you develop an opinion of your own." That's tough to do ...