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13

All you need is a 7-speed chain. You’ll have to shorten it by a few links after purchase (they’re sold excessively long for funkier gear arrangements), which should be done with a specific chain tool. This tool will also be needed in order to remove the current chain.


9

The RL and OG might be date codes. Assuming these are 2 different chains, RL would denote 1993-December and and OG would denote 1990-July. If you think they are newer than that, the chart isn't up to date, but if you follow the pattern, RL could be 2019-December and OG could be 2016-July. The second set of dates makes a lot more sense based on what I can see ...


7

New chains are a standard length more or less. You’ll need to remove some links to make it the correct size. Any 10 speed MTB chain is fine. KMC is a good brand. You need a chain breaker tool to do this task. If you have used this chain for a long time there’s a likelihood that the chain rings and cassette are stretched too and need replacement at the ...


6

The master link on the picture looks properly closed. Master links for 8- and 9-speed chains often do not require tools to open them, while 10/11/12/13-speed chains are better approached with special pliers. Be, of course, sure that you use a master link that matches your chain and is not too wide, e.g. an 8-speed one for 8-speed chain, 9-speed for 9-speed ...


6

You are correct, the pins have an interference fit in the outer plates only. When a regular pin is forced out the hole in the outer plate is enlarged. The reinforced replacement pin has a slightly greater diameter than the regular pins and so forms a interference fit in the outer plate again. This is why you cannot replace the reinforced pin. If a outer link ...


5

You need a chain suitable for a 7 speed drive train. The manufacturer may specify it fits 6,7,and 8 speed or any combination of that. As long as it says 7 speed it will work. You will also need a bicycle chain tool. This tool separates the chain so it can be removed. It will also be needed to make your new chain the correct length. The easiest way is to make ...


4

You probably foremost need a neww chain and you will also need a new cassette. What you are linking are chainsets. You can normally just buy new chainrings for your existing crankset. As others mention in the comments, check first, whether the aluminium thing we see in the photograph in the top-right corner is a bolt that can be released with a hex key or ...


4

It won't necessarily just work, and there is a way of predicting whether it will with good accuracy, barring a borderline case. If it's a Shimano 7, 8, 9, or 10 shifter in friction mode, it probably won't work. Friction shifters have some variance in their total cable pull between models. It's easy to measure by marking the cable and using a ruler or ...


3

Where it is now is perfectly safe. You can even go as far back to the blue line (where no part of the nut crosses the line). Just want you to check whether there is a screw/bolt in the red arrow? I'm pretty sure there should be, but from the picture, it looks like it might be missing. In general, you want the axle to be central to the dropout, if you ...


3

It is quite possible that the rear gear block (cassette/freewheel) will need to be replaced along with the chain. The reason for this is that the chain stretches over time as it wears. When this happens the teeth of the gear block wear down to match the new distances between the links in the chain. Then they don't match the new chain when it's replaced. ...


1

I was going to suggest vinegar (acetic acid) but this video very elegantly addresses a bunch of rust removal options including vinegar: quite interesting You'll need to let it soak, then brush it clean, rinse it, dry it, and lube it, all quickly enough that you don't let it start rusting again! You should probably buy a new ...


1

Shift the chain to the big chainring and then pluck at it, pulling it forward from the middle of the chainwheel. If it pulls out enough so you can see light between the chainring and the links of the chain, the chain is probably stretched out enough to need replacement. At any rate, you will need a chain tool to "break" the old chain and remove ...


1

Nathan is right - the most important thing is that your shifter has enough cable pull to get the derailleur across the cassette. A Shimano 11s derailleur has a 1.4 pull ratio, so to move it 34.8mm you need ~25mm of pull. It should be more pleasant to use with a lower ratio derailleur as the cogs will feel further apart and be easier to trim. It's worth ...


1

I don't thin there will be any problems being able to shift an 11 speed derailleur with a friction shifter. You need to run a 9 speed chain on a 9 speed cassette. There might be a problem with the wider 9 speed chain fitting in the R7000 derailleur cage. The only anther problem I see is that you'd be wasting money if you buy an R7000 derailleur ...


1

The problem turned out to be the crank assembly. Apparently the chain ring offset on the original crank was wrong. The replacement that Shimano sent (having been given the bike year/make/model/groupset info etc) was a totally different offset than the one Kona shipped with the bike. The new crank resolved the chain slipping problem. I don't know who messed ...


1

With long journeys and particularly during winter I have noticed that the salt erodes the chain very quickly, even when I have lubricated the chain beforehand. When you are missing proper chain lubricants, what would you use as a substitute? Could you use cooking oil if you are missing the right stuff, or should I keep a small bottle of oil with me on my ...


1

I use a hot wax solution - very home-brew but it works nicely for me. I have an old electric frypan where the non-stick lining was failing so it was no longer usable for food. I sanded the nonstick off, and loaded it with one kilogram of paraffin wax bought from a cosmetics wholesaler. It cost $35 NZD for 5 kilograms. A brand-new chain goes straight in. A ...


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