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6

There's more to front derailleur adjustment than limit screws and cable tension. Both the angle of the derailleur and the height need to be set properly. The angle of the derailleur being off can cause chain rub against the cage. If the rear of the cage is angled too far outward, the chain can rub against the inside of the cage when the chain is on the ...


5

Are you trying to bring the derailleur farther outwards? If so, you need to add cable tension. Screwing out the H limit screw won’t help if there isn’t enough tension to get to the limit anyways. To check for chainring problems, derail the chain from the chainrings entirely and give the cranks a spin. If you see the chainrings wiggle side to side, then you ...


1

Not out of the box. Shimano road and MTB shifters pull a different amount of cable with each shift. Art’s Cyclery documented that Shimano 11s road shifters pull 2.7mm, and Shimano 11 MTB shifters pull 3.6mm. Thus, an 11s MTB rear derailleur will never shift correctly. I have not used this particular cable pull adapter by Jtek engineering, but it claims to ...


3

Regardless of the derailleur or drivetrain type in question, the purpose of a chain sizing procedure based on large/large plus one link is to find the chain size where the rear derailleur is so extended that if it were one link shorter, the frame, hanger, and/or derailleur would be destroyed. Using that as your target chain length has different amounts of ...


0

Current gen Shimano mountain rear derailleurs (dealers' manual) require at least that much chain by their own instructions: 4 to 5 links plus quick link for hard tails and 5 to six links plus quick link for full suspension bikes. Note that Shimano refers to 1/2" section as a link, as is quite common. I recently set up a chain on a 1x full suspension ...


1

Bike chains don't have to be replaced at a time interval. You can ride a bike on a airport runway for years and never wear out the chain or you can ride up a mountain every day and have to chain wear out in weeks. As the chain wears big parts get smaller and the small holes that hold them in place get bigger. The chain "stretches". It's not ...


5

The time to replace a chain is when it needs replacing, not at some predetermined interval. Take it to the bike shop and have them use their chain stretch tool. From the symptoms you describe, you probably need a new one. I have never replaced a chain at 2,000 miles, and in younger days, I was I was doing 10,000 miles a year on pretty expensive equipment ...


1

This one has been here a while so I guess you will have fixed it. However, it could also be that the wrong chain is fitted i.e. a 12 speed instead of 8,9 or 10, whichever cassette is fitted. Also, if the front mech can slide up and down the tube rather that being on a fixed boss, the position could be wrong.


8

The other posters are probably right. But, if you haven't money to burn, I would replace the chain first and see how it goes. You say you keep it clean and well lubed so damage to the front chainrings are less likely and unless you seldom change gear, the cassette may be good enough to last another chain. Have a look at the teeth to see if they look like ...


13

Yes - after that mileage you will need both a new chain and new cassette. A new chain on the old cassette will not mesh right, and accelerate wear on the new chain. Depending how much chain elongation has accrued, you may need new chainrings too. They wear slower because more teeth are engaged in the chain. Look at the chainring and see if the scallops are ...


4

most likely yes because a worn down chain could wear down a cassette hold the brake down and try move the crank if the chain is climbing up the teeth on the cassette you need a new chain and new cassette maybe even the chainring


-1

I have done it too. 3x7 to a 1x7 added a small chain guide just incase. I feel the chain could be tighter but not sure to just buy a new chain(not sure which is best size for the set up) as upgrading a lot anyway or remove a few links but how many??


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