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20 votes

Why do cones need special wrenches?

Isn’t it simply because there is not enough space for normal nuts/wrenches without increasing dropout-width? You don’t need full-size nuts because those cones and nuts don’t really need much torque. ...
Michael's user avatar
  • 27.8k
12 votes

Why do cones need special wrenches?

Michael's answer is good - there isn't enough space for a full size nut. But this leads to the next question. Instead of having special wrenches why not just use normal nuts and get the spacing from ...
David D's user avatar
  • 21.5k
11 votes
Accepted

Possibility to machine hub cones

The surfaces of cones are hardened, so you're not going to be able to do it on a lathe with typical tools (maybe with tungsten carbide tools). However people do grind cones to resurface them, ...
Chris H's user avatar
  • 59.6k
9 votes
Accepted

Does a z-shaped cone wrench exist?

No, its not not needed. Remove the cone from the non-drive side, and the axle slides out the drive side. Assembly means setting the position of the drive side cone and locking it with the lock nut, ...
mattnz's user avatar
  • 50.9k
8 votes
Accepted

Dent in bearing cone, try to get a new one, or can I keep riding like this?

Anywhere there is a cone, there is also a "race" that the bearings sit in. The cone holds the bearings in place against the race. The picture you have posted shows the very definition of "pitted cone"....
Gary.Ray's user avatar
  • 16.4k
8 votes

Cone of axle damaged?

That's pretty heavy pitting. If you check the hub inserted race, you'll probably find that it's also pitted, though nowhere near as bad. There's more surface area on the cup, so the cone usually pits ...
Stephen Barner's user avatar
7 votes

Cone of axle damaged?

Nasty pitting on that cone. Replacement axles and cones are cheap. Go ahead and replace.
Argenti Apparatus's user avatar
7 votes
Accepted

My cone split into two parts

The outside ring is a bearing seal. Looking at your picture, it may be damaged. You can try to bend it back to its original shape. As for can these be purchased: anything can be purchased if you find ...
juhist's user avatar
  • 19k
7 votes

My cone split into two parts

Its a "dust shield" and is not directly part of the bearing - you can ride without it perfectly well. Personally I'd try to keep it - the shield does protect the bearing balls and race from ...
Criggie's user avatar
  • 125k
6 votes
Accepted

Pitted Cups - Can I get away with this level of pitting?

My life has been such, living in this corner of the world, where it simply hasn't been an option to buy new. And growing up here in a world before internet, if Lakeside Cyclery or Sears didn't have ...
Jeff's user avatar
  • 10.5k
6 votes
Accepted

Is axle cone pitting more common on rear drive side?

The rear wheel carries the most weight, so straight off its subject to 60% of the stresses where the front only carries ~40%. Rear axle takes drive from the chain, which is on the right hand side. ...
Criggie's user avatar
  • 125k
5 votes
Accepted

Are Shimano cone part-numbers sold in packs of ten and not available to consumers because they are meant to be dealer items?

These are cheap consumable items, so the inventory management represents a significant part of the price. It's likely that a pair won't cost a fifth of the price, but much more. Based on that Shimano ...
Rеnаud's user avatar
  • 20.6k
5 votes
Accepted

Is this cone nut in proper condition?

Update: It's been over a year since I posted the question and I rode ~1000km on that bike. I had no problems with the hub. The cone looks better now, and performs well. I believe there were just some ...
Robert's user avatar
  • 2,061
4 votes

Axle - rear hub and washer thing a bit loose

The round washer-like piece that's loose is a metal dust cover. It keeps debris and water out of the bearings. On some hubs they're pressed into the hub shell and on others they're pressed onto the ...
Nathan Knutson's user avatar
4 votes
Accepted

Can a hub casing be warped/bent?

Hub shells with pressed flanges, as opposed to being one solid piece, can do things like this. In such a case the press fit wasn't tight/solid enough to resist all the considerable forces on the shell,...
Nathan Knutson's user avatar
4 votes

Town bike intermittently harder to pedal

Are you sure you don't have a kick shift/kick back hub in the rear? I had this exact problem after I bought a new, used rear wheel for my town bike. Seemingly at random it would be much harder to ...
chfr's user avatar
  • 41
4 votes

Cone and lock nut adjustment on the drive side is impossible on my back wheel

On quite a few hubs (particularly rear hubs), cone and locknut are only adjustable on one side. The other side is tightened during assembly, before inserting the axle into the hub. If your left side ...
Nik Kharlamov's user avatar
3 votes
Accepted

How do I identify the correct replacement cones, or the right cones+axle?

I don't think it matters that much how the bearing balls interface with the bearing race (the rolling track) In theory, the balls are hard and will form a "point contact" with the race. In ...
Criggie's user avatar
  • 125k
3 votes

Pitted Cups - Can I get away with this level of pitting?

Not really, given you presumably only got this far in the first place because you want things working right. It will never be able to take a good adjustment again and it will get gradually worse, even ...
Nathan Knutson's user avatar
3 votes
Accepted

Front axle cone replacement - sizing

9.4mm major diameter means you have a 3/8" axle, which is sometimes even called 9.5mm. The thread on it should be 3/8x26tpi, which again is sometimes called 9.5mm x 26tpi. All Shimano hubs have the ...
Nathan Knutson's user avatar
3 votes
Accepted

Shimano MTB hub with pitting cones

As a stuffed hub means a wheel rebuild or a new wheel (often cheaper), especially for a hub at this price point, a full repair is prudent if it can be done for a few dollars. I have been able to find ...
mattnz's user avatar
  • 50.9k
3 votes

Is this cone nut in proper condition?

I would try to remove it with very fine wet and dry (800-1200). (put cone in drill, sand off as it spins) However I expect it is just a poor flashing of zinc or cadmium (both soft, shouldn't be ...
Henry Crun's user avatar
  • 1,068
3 votes

Axle - rear hub and washer thing a bit loose

What Nathan said, but I'll add two things: Whenever you replace the cone, always replace all the balls. The old balls will have gotten smaller and will cause more rapid wear on the cone if not ...
Daniel R Hicks's user avatar
2 votes

What is the regular maintenance on electric hubmotors?

I found no manufacturer supplied technical docs / how-to on bicycle hub motor (or mid-drive motor) maintenance. There is a variety of rider created how-to information. Here is a link to the Electric ...
David D's user avatar
  • 21.5k
2 votes
Accepted

How do I get this cone nut off?

It's not totally clear what's going on here, but: If this is a cup and cone hub, your problem describes a left cone that is stuck somehow, maybe crossthreaded or the threads otherwise damaged, and ...
Nathan Knutson's user avatar
2 votes

Rear axle keeps developing play, is it fixable or time for a new wheel?

IMHO, Time for a new hub. Whether you get a full new bike...well that would depend on what you have currently, and the kind of riding you do combined with how much you want to spend. The loose ...
Ben Stokes's user avatar
1 vote

How do I identify the correct replacement cones, or the right cones+axle?

There is a lot to this question and it is a good question. One of the things that make a complete answer difficult to give is that there have been a vast number of cones in the history of bikes, which ...
Nathan Knutson's user avatar
1 vote

Shimano MTB hub with pitting cones

This Bicycle Stack Exchange Q/A about pitted cups has some relevant info on pitting in cup & cone bearing systems. As you've noted, the best approach is to replace at least the cone nuts and ...
Jeff's user avatar
  • 10.5k

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