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26

V-brakes can be hateful and make a lot of sound if they're improperly adjusted- sometimes they're noisy even when they're properly adjusted, especially on braking surfaces that are not machined. You can usually alleviate this with one or more of the following methods. First and foremost, make sure your pads are properly adjusted. This is better demonstrated ...


17

There are many possible causes of creaking. But Deemar has the most likely reason in this case - the cranks are loose on the axle. Think about how a creak is produced. It's one item sliding over another. But instead of sliding it's repeatedly sticking then jumping. The amount of movement might only be a fraction of a millimetre. The OP would have noticed if ...


10

Square taper cranks are easily damaged if they a ridden loose. You may find that the only fix is to replace the crank. If after tightening to the correct torque they continue to loosen, they must be replaced. Over tightening, while tempting, is not the correct solution and will lead to maintenace problems down the track. (Essentially someone will have to ...


7

You need to isolate this noise to identify the cause. Its great that you can duplicate the noise without having to ride. Try these suggestions to help narrow down the cause. squeeze the rear of the front wheel and the downtube together with your hand. This will replicate some of the stopping forces on your headset. We know the brakes show the problem ...


6

Turns out it was the rear skewer of all things causing the creaking! It seemed like it was from the bottom bracket area because it was in sync with my pedalling but I put a dab of grease near the contact points of the skewers and the noise is gone. So if anyone else is having similar problems, check your skewers first because it's a lot easier than taking ...


6

Don't ride before servicing thos-e pedals. A poorly greased or loose pedal will ruin the thread of the crank or may even cause breakage of the pedal axle. A correctly tightened but non-greased pedal thread may cause the threads to fuse. You should remove both pedals, clean the threads and the crank arms, apply grease and thread them back in. In case you own ...


5

Creaks are notoriously difficult to diagnose. Because a bicycle is constructed from tubes, sounds often travel through the tube and sound like they are coming from a completely different place than where they actually originated. The following are, in more or less descending order, the most common causes of creaks that sound like they're coming from the ...


5

Take the shell off of each side of that bottom bracket and grease each one up, along with the spindle. When you tighten that bottom bracket back on, don't over torque it or under torque it, if you over torque or under torque that bad boy is going to squeak. If you aren't sure of the torque or you don't have a torque wrench, visit your local shop. Take the ...


5

If the noise appears when you create more torque it's almost certainly bottom bracket or crank related. You can get creaks in the rear wheel but they tend to manifest in lower gears because that's when the torque on the rear hub is highest. Cannondales are fairly notorious for creaking in the bottom bracket. The problem is that the bearing cups are slightly ...


4

No bike, no matter how good, is absolutely silent. It's possible that this bike needs to be tuned better, but more likely, it's simply the fact that it is Shimano's most basic 10 speed components and what is for Cannondale a more basic alloy frame. I would suggest taking it to a different LBS for an opinion on what the real problem is, or if there is one. ...


4

I've got the same problem on (what I believe is) a 2013 3.1. I was going to try replacing/upgrading the bottom bracket myself soon, hoping to smooth out the ride. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the size online so I'll need to take it out and inspect before I can order a replacement, hopefully this goes smoothly. Either way, I'll update with my ...


4

Often, dirt gets between the seat post and seat tube. Remove the seat post. Clean the post. Clean inside the seat tube. Grease the post and re-install. Hopefully the noise will be gone. You say the post is close to the max mark. For a little added safety, longer seat posts are available.


4

The shop mechanic may have judged there was already enough grease on the crank threads and more was not required. Only a small amount is sufficient. It will not hurt to check and apply a bit more though. What is more important is tightening the pedals to the correct torque. As mention in other answers loose steel pedals axles can destroy alloy crank arms ...


4

Park Tool offers the RC-1 specific press fit BB retaining compound. As I understand it expands slightly when cured to take up space between bearings and slightly oversize frame cups.


4

So, thanks for your input guys. I solved it by dismantling the headset and fork and re-greasing all the bearings and where they are seated after a thorough clean. the 'upper' bearing below the headset had a little rust and was bone dry. After the greasing it is now buttery smooth and silent.


4

Spare wheels make the creaking go away. Given that, check the wheels that creak thoroughly. Look for loose spokes and cracks in the rims, especially for cracks around the spoke holes. Several years ago I had exactly the same problem - creaks while riding on a specific front wheel that I couldn't locate. The creaks finally stopped when the rim cracked ...


3

Creaking when only in the saddle - I would check the saddle? A drop of oil into the where the saddle rails fix to the seat can alleviate. But if you are sure it is not this - then perhaps try isolating the noise by using the bike on a static trainer and pedalling. If you remove the chain from engaging with the chainset - it would isolate the noise to the ...


3

Most probably, the seatpost just needs to be cleaned (dust gets in) AND/OR tightened a little bit. Don't overdo it, it's best to stay within the 5-6 Nm range so as not to bust your seatpost ring or seat tube. Greasing the seatpost might also help. I wouldn't recommend any actual grease for this (messy, tends to get the seatpost stuck after a year of riding), ...


3

I had a similar issue- creaking w downstroke on both sides. Tried greasing pedals cranks seat clamp- no change. Pulled seat post and end was shiny from rubbing in tube. Greased post and blissful quiet.


3

It's hard to tell if it will be OK, and it will depend on how heavy you are and how much pedaling torque you can produce. The main problem you are going to face is not the reduction in area of the taper surface, but that the puller will have pushed the edges of the gouged area up, so that the crank will not fit quite properly on the spindle taper. Because ...


3

2) I feel very noticeable play when grabbing the right crank arm then moving the right pedal backwards and forwards. Are your cranks tight? You should grease the tapers well before tightening, it allows the crank to slide on fully, and tighten properly. If you can't remove your crank (no tools) then tighten, and then retighten several times after riding ...


3

In my experience, when tightening the quick release only temporarily solves the problem, try putting a little grease between the rear derailleur hanger and the dropout. Often it is the seat post but ruled that out since you said it gets louder when sprinting out of the saddle. Good luck!


3

It's hard to give a complete answer without having some internal diameter (ID) measurements from the shell. You want to know whether you're dealing with ovalisation, too small of an ID, or what. If it is an ovalisation type problem ("ovalisation" may be somewhat of a misnomer because if so it was probably made that way as opposed to being an acquired problem)...


3

I found the culprit(most likely): it was the cogs digging into the freehub body, as seen in the post here. I imagine the cassette lockring wasn't tight enough. The recommended torque is 50Nm but since I don't have a torque wrench that big, I've tightened it how tight I believed was enough, last time I removed the cassette. At the time of removing the ...


2

I got this problem which is how I found this post on google! Excellent answer from the last person above! (Ed - we don't know what post that would be, now). I have exactly this issue, the titanium spindle with 2 sealed bearings either side (6903 stainless with rubber seals, 30mm x 7mm x 17mm) used with an alloy cup on the drive side and the non drive side ...


2

Remove your cranks, clean the spindle ends with alcohol (but don't get it on the bearings), then reassemble and torque the bolts to max specified torque with a torque wrench. The issue is very slight contamination between the two parts, leaving a gap for infinitesimal movement. You could also try torquing it first, before disassembly. It must be very tight.


2

More than likely the crank arm is not sitting on the BB spindle correctly, very common! See if you can define where the creak originates, if it is from the chainset side, the following will apply; Perhaps slightly dirty when installed, both the spindle and the corresponding contact surface of the crank arm or chainset must be clean then greased on ...


2

Also make sure the washers are set correctly.


2

Have you looked after the chain properly? A two month old bike, ridden in adverse conditions, could easily have developed a creaky chain.


2

The main thing to worry about with a noisy crank is that the crank arm may be loose. If this is so then the crank arm and shaft will be destroyed in short order. Presumably the shop checked to be sure that the crank arms were tight. If so, then on a new bike there are no other creaks that are likely to signal a serious problem. Whether the noises should ...


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