Disclaimer: I am a fixie hater. I'll try to answer this as if I was impartial.
Proper road bikes (Including the Moulton) are the machines for speed, and always have been (unless you're on a velodrome).
Looking at it through a speed lens, a fixie has a slight weight, aero, and drivetrain efficiency advantage over a road bike, but this usually doesn't come ...
You are correct that the type of puncture you're getting is caused by the rim "pinching" the inner tube.
The root cause here is one of the following:
pressure too low (most likely)
You're not avoiding potholes carefully enough
Weight is too high for the tires/terrain.
This has nothing to do with fixies except perhaps that people on fixies tend to ...
Put a front brake on it if you're using it on the street.
Don't get distracted and forget to keep your legs turning, this comes with practice.
Watch out for pedal strikes in tight fast corners, not sure how you can practice this safely.
Other than that, it's just like riding any other bike.
Who rides fixes? Roadies who have got bored with always being out the front? Maybe its someone wanting to make a statement to the "Freds" (look it up) in the group
I once did a 160km ride where some guy on a MTB (with nobbiles, back in the mid 1990's steel, 26" etc) arrived home 00:04:35 behind the leading pack (About 4:10 hours). Some argued the only ...
There's not really enough information in your question to tell for sure what the problem is, so let me just list a few possible explanations that come to mind:
As others have noted, your gear ratio might just be too high for you (since you say it takes a lot of effort to get going).
You can take your fixie to a bike shop and have them swap the rear cog for ...
For practical day to day commuting I would stay away from a fixie because:
You are not a very experienced cyclist, riding a fixie in traffic is actually not that easy.
No fenders, so dirty clothes/mud in the face on rainy days.
No rear-rack, so for luggage you are forced to use a backpack.
I also wouldn't go for the type of urban bike you link because:
There are more factors involved. Gearing being a major one - it is much easier to skid on a 38x18 compared to a 50x14 which is more like a track ratio.
Other major factors include road surface, rider strength, dry/wet, tyre width, tread pattern, rubber compound and inflation.
Indeed, as others have mentioned additional weight might actually make it easier ...
A lot of mystique grows up around the regulation of many sports. The key (as Neo says) is to get to the source ...
UCI regulations say
Section 2: bicycles
Bicycles shall comply with the spirit and principle of cycling as a sport. The spirit
presupposes that cyclists will compete in competitions on an equal ...
Assuming a completely smooth road and neglecting the weight of the wheels, it makes no difference: you still need to do the same amount of work. Essentially, larger wheels give you a higher gear ratio, so doubling the diameter of the wheels would mean you'd only need to turn them half as many times, so you'd only need to turn the pedals half as many times, ...
I've got a 2nd hand Hercules too and I've done this exact thing. Get a quality chain tool and look up some videos on Youtube about how to remove and re-link a bike chain. I pretty much winged it as I had no clue what I was doing. It took a bit of work and a lot of frustration to get the chain length right. I probably did it wrong, but it works.
I’ve been riding mostly fixed gear for, oh, maybe ten years now. I use bmx pedals with straps.
You really ought to practice getting in and out of them until it becomes second nature. Having problems getting clipped in or getting your foot through the strap means you won’t have a rear brake (not ideal). Having problems getting out means you end up ...
If you have brakes, then a fixie is no more dangerous than a single speed once you get accustomed to not being able to coast. Simply put, on a fixie, if the bike is moving, you must be pedaling. Take it easy at first and you will adapt to this quickly.
I would recommend spending a bit of time where there isn't other bikers/pedestrians when you first ride as ...
Benzo and Glenn Gervais are right on, but I thought I'd include a photo for any visual learners. This is a typical fixed/free, high flange rear hub. Quite often they're available in 120mm and 130mm OLD to fit different width dropouts. These hubs generally have solid axles without quick releases to prevent the hub from slipping and slackening your chain.
By "non-drive" I assume you mean the left side. This is more apt to come loose than the right because of "precession" -- most crank bolts are right-hand thread on both sides, but the motion of the crank arm relative to the shaft tends to loosen the bolt on the left side, whereas it tends to tighten the bolt on the right side.
But if this is occurring it's ...
This can be a fairly common occurrence with a fixed wheel bike. It may depend on a few different things, ie what sort of nuts you are using, how tight they are, what style of dropouts, and what the dropouts are made of.
A different sort of nuts may help. eg something with serrated nuts or washers could grip better. Also you may be able to tighten the nuts ...
If the tension is too high, the drivetrain will bind. If it is too low, the chain will drop (which is dangerous on a fixie, since it can catch and lock up the rear wheel relatively easily).
You basically want the highest tension such that the drivetrain doesn't bind.
See Sheldon Brown on how to set chain tension properly.
It doesn't make much sense to insist on one thing being the opposite of another, so let's just focus on what these things are, and you can decide for yourself what, if anything, is "opposite" of what.
A fixed-gear bicycle is one in which the rear sprocket is mounted rigidly to the rear wheel, so they can only rotate at the same speed as each other.
I know there are a few answers here but they don't address the tonus solid or tubless.
Here is you problem:
I don't know exactly the amount of pressure, but always that I inflate
the tires, are really "tight" you could say.
"Tight" is not good enough. Check pressure without a gauge. Get a real pressure gauge. They are not expensive and inflate ...
I think this is being over-thought. Aerowheels on messenger rigs have nothing to do with performance, quicker locking ability etc. etc. It’s just the new generation mimicking the older generation, trying to be cool.
When I was a messenger, many of us were pursuing racing careers. The messenger gigs were essentially poor man’s training, and a steady source ...
If your bike has slotted dropouts and a rear wheel secured with axle nuts (which Poster's answer implies you have) you can do a single speed conversion without the need for a chain tensioner device.
The derailleur can be removed, chain shortened and tensioned properly by adjusting the position of the rear wheel. The chain should be able to move 0.5 inch up ...
There are situations, such as ice, or slick leafs covering the road surface that make application of the front brake dangerous. Generally the front brake does all of the stopping because it does not lose traction until the bike flips; however, in the aforementioned scenarios, the front wheel is likely to lose traction, pitching the bike and rider to the ...
I know you asked for a single part answers but since the parts work together and one choice influences another, I don't really see how that can be accomplished in a useful manner. So I'm going to outline it all.
I'll start with the items that you need for any build.
Frame and fork. Preferably one with horizontal dropouts - more on that later.
Headset to ...
If you have brakes, make sure they're not dragging on the wheels. Also, make sure (if you have quick release) that you haven't tightened the wheels in too much.
Fixed gear bikes are not easy -- they're primarily fashion statements at this point, and fashion statements often are not comfortable. You're stuck with one gear combination, and you can't ...
You can buy a flip hub rear wheel where one side is fixed, the other free (Some bikes even come with them). You just take the wheel off, flip sides and put it back on. Brakes will depend on the frame but most frames allow for the installation of brakes. For the rear brake, you'll just have run full cable housing along the frame with either wire ties or cable ...
For context, I have been doing group rides for about 20 years now, raced at the cat 1/2 level for a good portion of that, and had a fixed gear obsession off and on for many years too. Riding fixed is an interesting challenge, but it is most certainly not an out and out advantage. The short of it is that your 55 kph fellow is likely a strong rider, who also ...
You can just use the freewheel on the large thread on the fixed side. It's the same size, and just as durable as the freewheel side, for normal people.
So just unscrew the lockring and cog, and put on a standard freewheel of your choice. Did it as a bike messenger, and it still holds to this day.
Technically yes, economically no.
You obviously need to obtain a multi sprocket cassette, rear derailleur, shifter, and cable and housing. Additionally you need:
Singlespeed frames have dropouts designed to provide a mechanism for adjusting chain tension by moving the rear hub, so you would need dropout adapters to fit a rear derailleur.
Single speed ...
There is a Sturmey-Archer solution for you:
Just to copy the information available on their page:
Silver 3 Speed Fixed Gear Rear Hub
3-Speed fixed gear with gear ratio of 160%
Gear steps of 20% and 33%
Threaded driver compatible for non-fixed 3-speed conversion with standard single speed freewheel
6061 Aluminium hub shell
It is absolutely possible to skid the back wheel, but you really need to be deliberate about it to do it. In this case, however, it sounds like you were applying back pressure to slow down and noticed something surprising, so it was not likely to be the tire skidding. It was probably the cog slightly loosening.
If you're going to apply any back-pressure at ...