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19

Two solutions I've used: Spray the inside of the grip with hair spray. Slide it on immediately, and then when the hair spray dries, it will glue the grip in place. Use rubbing alcohol. It does not do as good of a job at locking the grip in place, but it does evaporate quickly and doesn't leave any lubricant inside the grip.


12

Cycling gloves are designed for comfort and to improve grip by absorbing sweat and providing a contact material that provides grip even when damp or wet. Typically, hands do not sweat much so most cycling gloves will help in this regards.


11

Your question suggests that you might hold your handle bars too tight. A tense grip over a long tube leads inevitably to cramps. If you are not going over technical terrain or going very fast it is usually safe to change grips and hold bars much more loosely. With experience you will develop a firm but not too tight grip also in technical sections. ...


11

Distribute thin zip-ties around the inside of the grip somewhat evenly so that they provide slippery "rails" on which the grip can slide on the bar. Once the grip is in place, pull the zip-ties out (with pliers if necessary).


11

Spit. Im not kidding. Saliva is a great lubricant that will dry with little residue, and depending on any sugars in your system, could be a little tacky. I have done this for years.


10

Best solution (probably available only at shops): use an air compressor with a narrow tip to inject air between the grip and the handlebar at an angle (like spiralling around). This will create an air cushion and you can move the grip around (keep moving the air jet as you apply the air jet, since only in some positions the air cushion is formed). Less ...


9

I really think this is a fit issue (e.g., changing the bar height and/or reach, how you hold the bar) rather than finding softer grips or padded gloves. Numbness should be taken seriously (as it can lead to permanent damage if left unattended). Padding tends to help deal with issues associated with high frequency vibrations, rather than too much pressure ...


8

You would be entering in a very busy market with no obvious advantages. Let's look at the two types of LEDs that you might use: If you're using inexpensive and low-power 5050 LEDs (15 lumens@350mW; usually ganged in groups), then you could power the lights off button cells (two CR2032s would power one 5050 LED for about 3 hours; 3 x 5050s for one hour) but ...


8

A thumb /trigger shifter has been developed for the Rohloff speed hub. It has been manufactured by Cinq5 and is called Shift:R. It involves two levers one for up-shifting and one for down-shifting. I assume it will take some ride time to get used to the new and some what unusual methodology. They are not inexpensive. Reviews have pros and cons so you would ...


7

It is a little hard to tell from your photos, but do you have grip shifters? For setups with grip shifters, the grips are generally much shorter / narrower, as part of the "grip surface" is the shifter itself. If you do indeed have grip shifters, you can do as ojs suggested & move the shifters / brakes in towards the stem, or, you could return the ...


7

A few things I have done that seem to help. Swap your grips to something with an ergo design. This type has a paddle like shape. The larger width spreads the weight to a larger contact area. Another advantage is these grips tend to have a larger diameter. The larger size makes it easier to grip. Check your fork settings. Unless you are currently bottoming ...


5

Have a look at Sheldon Brown's handlebar reference. It lists typical clamp and outer bar diameters. Unfortunately it does not contain oversized mountain bike handlebars, like your 31.8 mm riser bar. I suspect that the typical diameter for mountain bike bars at the handles at the grips is still 22.2 mm. You may see in the table that while the clamp diameter ...


5

I have had the same problem is the past with Oury grips. My solution was to use a bit of rubber cement. You only need to apply a little to the bar and inside of the grip. While the cement is still wet, it will slide on smoothly, then dry and secure nicely. Be sure to wipe off any excess that accumulates as you slide the grip on. I have had no trouble ...


5

You could try: adding some bar ends, or ergonomic grips like Ergon GP2+, to allow you to change grip position move your saddle further forward on its rails, to take some of the weight off your hands


4

You can move the brake and shift levers inward. They are tightened around the handlebar with hex bolts or screws, you can loosen these and move the parts around. If the result feels too narrow, you can change to a wider handlebar. Edit: See the other answer for solution with grip shifters.


4

Avenir 3D rubber grips on my cruiser bar: Vodka :) Just a splash inside the grips, wriggle them on, and let excess drain outside the end hole.


4

The hand receives its peripheral nerve supply from well-defined nerves such as the radial and median nerve which are involved with sensation to the thumb. The median nerve often gets pinched, and the result is numbness. Sometimes, weakness can also result, particularly of the muscles that bend the thumb towards the little finger. The most common place for ...


4

Grips will not wrap the brake levers. You have several options: Find a compatible brake lever which has plastic levers Wrap the brake levers in something (a few layers of heat shrink tubing, plasti-dip, a bit of plastic/vinyl tubing like you get for refrigerator water hoses, brake lever covers (they exist for motorcycles, so I suspect you can find them ...


3

If you have access to a compressor, compressed air works well – use the hole in the end of the grip to blow in air while covering the other end of the bars with your hand (or something). The air escaping around the grip opens it up enough that it is easy to slide on. Rubbing alcohol can be used as a lubricant. It will evaporate leaving the grips snug on the ...


3

I always used hairspray with my grips, it's the best solution in my opinion. It not only keeps them from slipping too far on/off the handlebars, but keeps them from twisting in place. Now, however, I use locking grips like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110736653646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1030wt_1163


3

A razor blade/knife/x-acto knife should cut it. Hockey shops have special knifes for cutting through hockey tape if you want a specialized device. This shouldn't be a problem for non-carbon bars though, if you're careful. The residue can be removed with rubbing alcohol or soapy water or mineral spirits (again, for carbon, I'm not sure what you'd do).


3

Since no one else mentioned this: I always use a glass/window cleaner (like Windex). It works really well. Easy to spray on the bar or in the grip and it evaporates quickly but not as quickly as isopropyl alcohol. Plus I think it has a surfactant which makes things slide a bit easier. And you may be likely to have some around. Usually works to take ...


2

If you put a flat blade screw driver into the bar whole with the blade between the clip and the grip and gently pry it away from the grip by leveraging on the opposite side of the clip, it should pop off. Or just pull hard with your hand.


2

Choosing a grip is a matter of personal preference. If you're worried about the fact that the Nexus shifters require a smaller grip on one side than the other (due to the shifter taking up room), you can get grips that are made to mate with an internal hub shifter like the Nexus. Alternately, since these can be difficult to locate, you can cut down the ...


2

The Lizard Skins Lock-on Logo grip is 31.06mm in diameter. The Lizard Skins Lock-on North Shore grip is 30.94mm in diameter. Both were measured using a digital caliper, and assuming a small difference in diameter due to texture, they are nominally 31mm diameter grips. The thinner Lizard skins grips measure approximately 29-30mm, again depending on ...


2

Besides grips and handle sweep (affecting wrist angle), you might want to consider bike fit (esp. seat fore-aft position, handlebar height, and length of stem) which greatly affect how much weight you put on your hands. Generally speaking, seat further back, handlebars higher, and stem shorter will have you putting less weight on your hands. However, beware,...


2

Two parts to this question - how to ease off an old grip that you may want to reuse (ie cutting it off is too destructive. Followed by how to fit the new one. I use a thin old electrician's flathead screwdriver to gently lever the edge off the grip up, then tilt the bike so that it leans to the side I'm working on, and then squirt a splash of water and ...


2

I use Oury Mountain Grips on my mountain bike and my city bike. They have a cheaper slide on version (about $10-12 USD) and a lock on version ($ about $30 USD) which I prefer. The lock on version avoids the 'slippy grip' issues you sometimes have when water eeks under the edge of the grip and it slips on the bars. These grips are smooth and cushy enough ...


2

I remember this would happen to me as a kid while on my bmx bike especially in humid summer weather. So you are buying new grips already - I'd say make sure they are a harder compound than whatever your current ones are. Seems like harder rubber is less likely to deform/melt away. With your current grips you might try wrapping them in bar tape. There are ...


2

I believe the 30 and 33mm sizes are the "outside" diameter of the grips (the diameter where your hands are actually grabbing) made to match either small or large hands (or just personal preference). The inside diameter should still be 22.2.


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