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0

I think your sketch is great. However use slots instead of holes for the screws, so you can tune the length, to aim for a resonant frequency at the speed you want to ride. Simplify it by using two saddle clamps instead of the pictured round thing. Saddle clamps are often used for securing pipe to a wall. One of your main problems will be rotation over time -...


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Was the norm in the 80s. As teenagers we routinely had these on our racingbikes .


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Here are a few diagrams I drew in Autodesk Fusion 360 to explain how these zero-gap stems work. According to the instructions provided with the few zero-gap stems I've encountered, you should tighten the "no gap" bolts to full torque first, then alternate between the lower bolts to fasten the handlebar. That makes sense according to the diagrams ...


2

As others have alluded, the instructions do not say completely tighten a bolt all at once. I interpret the yellow additional instruction card to mean "make sure there is no gap for the top two bolts; there may or may not be a gap for the bottom two bolts." To do this without letting things get unbalanced, I'd follow the "Z" cross-...


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The card is telling you to tighten the top bolts until the gap is closed, then tighten the bottom ones. It does not mean to torque the top bolts to final tightness before tightening the bottom ones.


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You should follow the instructions on the yellow cardboard. The manual contains the normal default procedure of tightening crosswise and evenly, but the second bullet point, "In case of additional instruction is added between stem body and stem cap, follow this instructions carefully." is telling you to override this normal procedure if other ...


3

It is an 'eternal' and more of a philosophic question. Both variants are out and both seem to be true and not so. It is the same on the motorcycle front. The picture of the actual stem says clearly that you should close the gap at the top. I would follow that procedure. Screw the bolt in just until the plate touches the opposite side, hand tight, not with ...


4

You are correct that 10N is a low number for this kind of stem. It's hard to recommend carte blanche to go past a manufacturer recommended torque, but it seems likely that's what you'll have to do if it's ever going to work. The other thing to check in a situation like this is the actual physical dimensions of the parts. Most stems of any type are going to ...


4

A few things to think about: Are you using grease or threadlocker on the bolt threads? This will minimize corrosion and galling problems, and means that the same final torque value is actually clamping tighter than if the threads are not lubricated. Personally, I would use grease on this bolt, but others may differ. Ask Kalloy whether their torque spec is ...


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