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Sorry, Ya'll. The pic is blocked by over protective filtering on my work computer, in fact, I didn't even notice there was a pic there.


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The OP describes that he has removed a conical thingie, which is probably the compression ring. If so, I don't think a pick will solve anything. I would use a 2x4 as a buffer between the fork and the a mallet or hammer.. Just make sure your whack is good and lined up, and make sure the 2x4 is flush with the steerer tube. Also, drip some oil or even ...


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It's unclear how it came to be a JIS (EC29) frame with threadless. That combination is odd. There are some different ways it might have been hacked together, or maybe some small number of bikes were made that way. It doesn't matter. Get the frame reamed to ISO/Campy/EC30 (all names for the same thing) and the crown milled if needed, and then you can install ...


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The grey part is a wedge and has a split in it. You could use a metal pick to pry it out at the split. If you deform it in your attempt, file or sand off any burrs before you reuse it. If you hit the top of the fork too hard it's possible to knock it out of round, even with a rubber mallet. The problem you have encountered is quite common and can be ...


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Adding this answer to a years old question that is very relevant today. Most new forks today (mid- to high-level ones from the biggest and best suspension makers, namely: Fox, Rock-Shox, XFusion, Marzocchi [owned by Fox], Manitou, Ohlins) are equipped with tapered steer tubes 1.5" at the crown to 1.125" by the time it leaves the headtube and the ...


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