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2

From the specs on your bike and photos (thanks!) you have a "threadless" headset with semi-cartridge bearings rather than loose ball bearings, and a 1 1/8th inch diameter steerer tube. That makes things simpler, and is an extremely common configuration. Here is the manufacturer's diagram for the headset: From your photos, part #6, the "crown ...


2

You have the right idea. You can do this freely as long as the new headset is the right cup size for the head tube. The crown race ID of the new headset also has to be correct for the new fork, but 1" threadless forks and headsets use the 26.4mm ID size almost universally (maybe actually universally but there's always an oddball somewhere). 1" ...


2

The industry has developed a standard system listing the key measurements and information for headsets. Park Tool has a good description here: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/standardized-headset-identification-system


1

The answer Nathan gave is fine, but you say you want function right away. The bottom cup and bearing is fine. You will need to move the crown race from the old fork to the new fork but the bottom bearing has no relationship with the top bearing other than they turn at the same time (and share "preload"). For your top cup, the majority of loose/...


1

Sadly, it looks like you probably DO have to change the pressed cups. As mentioned by @NathanKnutson, the details are what matter. You indicate that your headsets are "something like" those shown in the diagrams. In those diagrams, the upper (threaded) headset uses loose/caged ball bearings, while the lower (threadless) headset uses 36 degree angle ...


5

In most cases, you'll need a complete new headset. The pressed cups can look similar but that doesn't make them interchangeable. Usually some aspect of the sealing or fit wouldn't work right if you did that, even if both headsets used the same bearing retainer. A few companies use literally the same pressed parts for both threaded and threadless models, and ...


3

No, that is symptomatic of a problem and should not be seen as normal. Wear can cause this issue, but not usually to the point of forcing a choice between looseness and binding. In cases like that it's more common for something to be out of place, which in turn can be dangerous in some situations. (One iteration of this problem is a ball bearing has gotten ...


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