Hot answers tagged

31

Verdict seems to be 'this is a scam' Cyclotron is a scam https://cyclotronscam.boards.net/board/1/general-discussion Reevo is suspiciously similar https://www.reddit.com/r/shittykickstarters/comments/ivk95y/reevo_hubless_ebike_anyone_know_anything_about/ Comments on there about sum it up: looks good to the gullible on Facebook/Kickstarter, in reality is much ...


25

Centerlock largely exists because since the beginning of modern disc brakes for bikes, Shimano has more or less alone had a weird cautionary take on the physics of rotor bolts theoretically being able to loosen in the six-bolt design. That's why their six-bolt rotors have always come with various retention systems for the bolts that nobody else bothers with. ...


20

Hope hubs are a very refined, reliable execution of the pawl design. They don't do much to illustrate the disadvantages of the concept that designs like the star ratchet are trying to address. One potential downfall of pawl systems like Hope uses is that when things go wrong with them, either the pawls or the part inside the hub shell that the pawls engage, ...


20

I would think about these in terms of bearings: The hubless design moves the bearing of the wheel all the way out to its circumference. As such, you get extremely long racetracks a need for many more bearing balls/rollers the bearing balls/rollers rotate much, much quicker the seal for the bearings must be much larger the bearings are much, much closer ...


17

If the nuts are rounded they're stuffed. You want to remove the nuts but not damage other things, like axles. I'll assume you're talking about axle nuts, but the same ideas apply to all nuts, bolts, and even screws to some extent. So your nuts look something like this: Clean the flats up with a file. Use a medium flat file and smooth off the lumps of ...


16

Children's bikes are usually designed with easy gearing appropriate to children. As Chris H said - they are not usually assembled by people who care that a bike is assembled correctly. From the factory it seems like everything is always too tight. My guess is that there is something that can be adjusted to make things better. Flip the bike over so it's ...


15

That kind of rim damage indicates over-worn brake surfaces. Whether you should replace the whole wheel is a strictly economical question which is hard to answer in general. Wheel building services and components prices differ in different countries; somewhere it is cheap to rebuild a wheel at a mechanic; somewhere buying a new wheel is cheaper. Given that ...


15

In order to fit a disc brake, you need a compatible fork and a compatible wheel, plus a compatible brake lever. Your fork does have a disc brake mounting already designed in, it is an International Standard (I.S.) mount. Most mtb brakes now are Post Mount fittings so are fitted using a simple adapter. You can see the differences here or search around images....


14

Advantages of 6-bolt: Not being patented by Shimano means more vendors offer compatible wheels/disks. Torx bolts require a smaller tool which is often included in many multi-tools so one can always have one on the road. Advantages of Centerlock: Faster installation and removal with a cassette tool; no need to fiddle with 6 separate bolts No need to have ...


12

From Stan's NoTubes FAQs on wheels and rims: Why is my cassette digging into my freehub body? Stan's freehubs are made lightweight using aluminum like many other brands. We recommend using cassettes with a rigid alloy carrier (XTR, XT, XO, etc. - Figure 1) for the largest sprockets. Cassettes with individual cogs (Figure 2) may mark the ...


12

A couple more pros of centre lock: Finned rotors One big difference is that you can't get the finned Shimano Ice-Tech rotors used on the road bike groupsets in a 6-bolt configuration. E.g: or I've had brake fade on my Shimano RS685/785 set up on descents in Wales and wanted to try the finned rotors, but my hubs are 6-bolt. You can make a centre lock ...


12

Updated based on your edits and comments. The severed piece of metal circled in the 3rd image is one of the cage plates, and was originally attached to the lower (idler) pulley bolt. Beyond replacing the derailleur, there is no additional damage there. It really does appear that you may only need to replace your derailleur (and chain). Other items to ...


11

That's a bit of a mess. Looks like the chain dinged up the hub, freehub body (that the cassette mounts on) and the spokes. The freehub body is removable, and you could possibly use a fine file to remove any metal burrs that are keeping the freehub from rotating. What is far more worrying is the state of the spokes. All the drive side spokes are gouged and ...


11

The intention is for it to be adjusted after the wheel is built but before it's ridden. Tension on the flanges has some effect on preload. Were it a QR hub, there's also the fact that some play is desirable off the bike, but not when the wheel is being built. This applies less or not at all to Shimano thru-axle hubs, because the adjustment doesn't usually ...


10

Shimano/SRAM 11 speed cassettes are wider than 8/9/10 speed ones. So yes, you need a new, wider freehub body, unless your old one was not very old and used a spacer to fit a 10-speed cassette. People with non-Shimano brand hubs are less likely to find replacement freehub bodies, it seems, leading to replacement of the whole hub, or even the whole wheel if ...


10

It depends. If an inexperienced person such as your regular consumer does it, it could take a few hours especially if you don't have the proper tools or preparation. If an experienced person at the shop does it with their tools, it could take half an hour if all the spokes are the right length, it's a standard lacing, or they've done the same wheel before. ...


10

One disadvantage of 6 bolt is that you can torque one side just a bit more than the other which can cause the rotor to be just a bit warped. Center-lock torques evenly by design so there’s no risk.


10

A security nut is exactly what it is. I've seen similar ones on public bike share bikes. As to where you get the tool for it, no idea. Other ones I've seen have been shrouded; this looks like you could get a pipe wrench on it to replace it with a normal one.


10

The grooves/enlargement shown at the hub are all normal. The path to a wheel that doesn't break spokes is use premium quality spokes (DT, Sapim, and Wheelsmith are the usual poster children), set their line properly at the rim and hub, and stress relieve them properly during building. Fatigue breakages are almost universally the result of one or more of ...


9

As you're not clear on road vs mtb, there's two answers. For 11 spd road drivetrains Shimano uses a 1.85mm wider hub with the drive side flange closer to the centerline to compensate for the additional width. Using a spacer allows the wheel to be backwards compatible to fit a 10 spd cassette. You can't fit a 11spd freehub in place of a 10spd freehub unless ...


9

Each kind of grease will perform best at a certain temperature. And is designed for a certain speed of movement of the parts it is used at to reach and not exceed that temperature. So yes, it is worth it to use the special grease for bikes or get an other kind of grease that is designed for the speeds/temperature your parts will get. I found that when a ...


9

Here's a guide for overhauling a cup-and-cone low-end Shimano dynamo: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34057344/Overhauling_Shimano_Dynamo_Hubs.pdf The main caution from that article concerns the connector-side cone & nut and the aluminum wire underneath them: Using your finger to prevent the plug assembly from turning, break the lock nut from the ...


9

Is there a small hole that was covered by the ring? If so it covers a lubrication port. Many old Raleigh, and other utility type hubs came with such a port.


9

Thru Axles are a standard for wheel fasteners that was introduced fairly recently for MTB and later for road bikes. Today thru axles come typically in 15 mm or 12 mm diametres. If you mean thse, they are indeed always hollow. Any solid bolt with such a large diametre would be excessively heavy. Even when using light magnesium alloys. The whole innovation ...


9

The specs for the Schwinn Traverse, made by Pacific cycles circa 2010, are dearth. What I have seen on the Schwinn Traverse is that it is 21 speed (3x7 Shimano, w/SRAM grip shift) mountain style bike with alloy front suspension. If you are in possession of a stock Traverse, the rear is a Freewheel hub which has a Shimano 7 speed freewheel screwed onto the ...


9

You are correct. The cassette hasn't moved, so the rear chainline hasn't changed, so you don't need to compensate for it. Note however that a non-boost crank in a boost frame might have chainstay clearance issues, depending on the chainring size. You'll need to check your particular combo for this.


8

Some axles [Maillard, Campag etc.] have a keyway along the threaded portions. An internal-tabbed washer slides on , between the cone and the locknut, to prevent locknut rotation also spinning the cone itself. It's a good system; and in that case, the tabbed washer should be used. With Shimano hubs, where the keyway-&-tab system has been abandoned, the ...


8

I would recommend doing two things: Reassemble the hub with the thickest grease you can find (within reason). It might slow you down a little, but it will help the bearings last as long as possible. Make a mark on the back side of the cone that corresponds to where the damage is. When you're putting the wheel on, rotate the axle so that the damaged side of ...


8

I don't have specific experience with this one, but the pictures suggest it works one of two ways: From where you're at now, you bonk the end of the axle on the non-drive sufficiently hard and the axle slides out, possibly taking the freehub with it, or if not then letting it be removed. You put the 5mm allen in the drive side end and a cone wrench on the ...


8

If the shell is aluminum and we're talking about the whole thing and not just the bearing races, the literal answer is flat out no, because aluminum doesn't have a fatigue limit. It will crack eventually. As to the question of can a hub bearing race, real or hypothetical, last literally forever in any kind of use, that's the kind of question everyone likes ...


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