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2

It's not totally clear what's going on here, but: If this is a cup and cone hub, your problem describes a left cone that is stuck somehow, maybe crossthreaded or the threads otherwise damaged, and you'll need to find some way of getting more purchase on it. If you have access to the right cone wrench flats, a clear way of doing that is to lock the right ...


3

If period correctness is not an issue, a modern cassette hub is the better choice. The problem with old freewheel design is that it puts the drive side bearings in the center of the axle where the weight of the rider can bend or break the axle. Modern hubs either put the bearings to the end of the axle or use an oversize axle that can take the load. Other ...


1

There's a couple points being covered here. Classical cup and cone hubs use standard axles (M9, M10, 3/8" etc) that flex under compression from the QR. The cones are getting a little closer to one another. Once you get into hubs that don't use standard QR axles, most of them are much stiffer and have little or none of the same effect. Almost all higher ...


2

There is way too much space! Tensioning the spoke is going to stress the bend into opening the angle and you risk several failures. The spoke may break at the bend. The spoke-hole will be ovalized or break open through metal fatigue. There's also the risk of the wheel going easily out of true. Put a stainless washer on the spoke first before threading it ...


-1

you retry you'll get a bit loose, sometimes a little tight, never the in between perfection. For some bikes perfection is not possible. Like when working on a brand new or used box store bicycle or when working on a beat up bike and you don't have the parts you need right now.... If my only choice is between too tight and too loose it's best to be a little ...


8

As loose as possible without play. Bearings are supposed to have some amount of preload, which is a fancy name for being a bit tight as opposed to being loose. There should never be play once adjusted and on the bike. For QR hubs, a good target amount of play off the bike is such that the play can be felt on the bike with the QR 50% closed but not 100%. Some ...


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