9

The first thing I would do is assess the question of what happens if your efforts result in the eyelet threads getting wrecked. Is the eyelet and its welded connection chunky enough to fix it by helicoiling? Look at a helicoil tap chart. Does it have enough meat to handle a 6.145mm hole in it? Then look around a little at the ti framebuilding suppliers to ...


8

Wipe the chain down with a rag to remove dirt and old lube. Apply lube while spinning the chain. I tend to use quite a bit (a small drop on every second chain link or so). It’s cheap and the next step takes care of any excess. Wipe down with a rag before the next ride. In dry weather it can be sufficient to do step 1 only and skip applying new lube for a ...


7

I'll preface this with the fact that I ride in a cold/wet climate and prefer riding bikes to cleaning them, so this is purely what works for me. On my winter bikes, I use cheap components, a thick/heavy wet lube and then largely ignore maintenance, otherwise i'd spend half my life cleaning bikes. I accept this is wearing components more quickly, but a ...


6

You do not need to oil after every ride. Depending on the type of lubricant you use, you may only need to lube every 500 miles/800 km. There are two general categories of lubes: dry and wet. Wet lubes are oily, dry lubes are waxes suspended in a liquid carrier that evaporates. Wet lubes typically last longer but can wash off in the rain; dry lubes are ...


4

Just to add a bit to this: I would recommend wiping your chain off after every ride, regardless of lubrication. Just grasp the chain in a clean rag, then backpedal a few times. As you ride, airborne dust or dirt from road spray mixes with the oil. You're wiping off the stuff that's on the outside of the chain. This means that less dirt will eventually work ...


4

An alternative answer - use wax instead of oil. Doesn't collect as much grit, doesn't leave as much mess and keeps everything lubed for longer in almost all conditions. Refer:


3

Regardless of the derailleur or drivetrain type in question, the purpose of a chain sizing procedure based on large/large plus one link is to find the chain size where the rear derailleur is so extended that if it were one link shorter, the frame, hanger, and/or derailleur would be destroyed. Using that as your target chain length has different amounts of ...


2

If you don't remove old oil and dirt, then when you add new oil it all just mixes together and soon it all becomes a horrible think mess. After every ride or once a week do the following: Clean chain with water (no soap, maybe degreaser if you have it) Dry a little with cloth Use a GT85 style oil lubricant and penetrator (must have PTFE or similar, do not ...


2

Use a chain washer if you want to wash your chain really thoroughly, especially if you used a wet lube before. You do not really need to fill it with 100% degreaser even if the manuals tell you so. Most often you can either strongly dilute it or you can use a dish-washing liquid in some reasonable dilution. After wiping the wet chain with a dry rag you must ...


1

The easy maintenance is as follows: Wait until your chain start to squeak. Yes -- you won't want to oil an already oily chain. The reason for this is that it's hard to get the dirt out of an oily chain because the oil holds it there, whereas dirt readily falls off a squeaky chain. The only ways you can clean an oily chain is to first remove all of the oil, ...


1

This is the process I use and I documented it in another answer. It is quick and pretty through without having to remove the wheels, cassette, etc. https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/73794/54110


1

Look at the square hole at the root end of the crank. You'll see that the square hole type has a square where two of the sides are kind of parallel with the crank. Looking at the rhombic hole, the pictures will show that whilst the square hole is still square, it is turned 45 degrees and you could say it is more like a diamond, the edges of the hole are ...


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