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3

A lot of forks do this because the axle path is wrong. It needs to open forward to resist ejection force by disc brakes. The downward path was chosen to do the same for rim brakes. Many companies have made this switch, but not enough. High-quality internal-cam QRs apply the most clamping force of any type. The simple answer is get any Shimano skewer. A ...


4

There's a few different Crossmax/Crossride/Crosswhatever iterations for how you get to the freehub guts to service it. For the one you have, I think your probably just pull off the endcaps, or take them off with a 5mm wrench on each end if there are such wrench flats there. You don't have to take the cassette off; I always do anyway, but it's fine not to if ...


4

I know it’s an old question, but I just received my bleeding kit, and I was wondering the same thing. I looked up ‘syringe’ on Amazon, all of them have markings saying ‘discard after use’ or ‘single-use only’, regardless of their intended purpose, including some where the description clearly states that they’re reusable, like the ones meant for cleaning a ...


0

From what I see, it's a lost cause. You mentioned that you'd buy another crank, but that they are not available. It may be time to look for used parts. Ebay is a good source, and there are some bicycle shops that may be able to help. I remember finding a nice selection of used parts at a shop in Seattle several years ago. The good thing about crankarms is ...


1

Use pipe wrench with small pipe to extend leverage. Once pedal comes off proceed to inspect crank arm threads. Try using correct tap and run it through to freshen up threads. Install new pedal. If you can't tap thread , try a Heli Coil kit to match thread size.


4

Welcome to galvanic corrosion + threading hell. I'm sorry for your loss. Alll of the above seem solid, but I'd go slightly differently. Remove Crank Arm and secure into vise/clamped to table Lock pair of vise grips onto where the original pedal wrench flats were. Slip cheater bar (any strong metal pole) over the vice grip handles for turning it Attempt to ...


1

Do you have access to a drill? buy a screw extractor (AKA easy out) bit and drill through the pedal spindle (from the back side). I am not sure the crank will be usable: it seems to me that the pedal was wrongly installed. I second the suggestion of get a compatible replacement.


1

TIG weld some piece of metal bar to the pedal axle. Or use some strong, long, plumber specific pliers like Knipex Cobra 400, or 560 mm, those are realy self-locking - will bite into the axle.


4

I have been in this position before. This is what finally worked for me: Take off the crank, put it in a big and stable vise. Alternatively, bolt it to something solid. Drill a hole through the pedal shaft and put a nail/bolt through it to give the wrench extra grip Use the biggest wrench you can find. A monkey wrench with a long lever is the best choice. ...


-3

Put a big hammer under the crank and hit the crank with an other hammer. The crank will have some damage but the pedal will go out.


7

I know this situation myself. The pedal shaft is hardened steel. It will win. Taking into account what you tried, expect the thread in the crank to be lost even if you get the pedal off, eventually. So my recommendation: Get a spare left crank from your repair shop. It will save you a lot of time and headache. One more: When mounting pedals, use loads of ...


23

I think your pedal is a lost cause. Even if you did get it off in the current condition, reinstalling and later removal will make later-you hate current-you. I would disassemble the pedal from the outside - remove the axle cap, locknut, cone, and bearings, then slide the pedal cage outboard. You may have a second set of bearings inboard, or a bushing. The ...


11

I would try removing the crank and clamping the pedal in a bench vise. With the pedal pointed downward and held very firmly in the vise, you’d then try to turn the crank clockwise. Otherwise, the specific model of left crank is not essential. You just need it to be a 175 mm Left Hollowtech II crank arm. Some cranks have different q-factors, so you’ll want ...


3

There's a great discussion of chains and lubrication at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html His cleaning method, water and citrus-based cleaner in a soda bottle, is fast, convenient, neat, and highly effective. It gets grease off and grit out of the chain. The dirty water and cleaner can go down the drain. Then you can drip dry or heat if you're in a ...


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