It's safer and way easier just to buy another MissingLink (KMC's name for their master link design) of the same type (pin length) the chain came with, leaving you with an inner link that has one on either end. They're around $2US.
In addition to saving the trouble of getting the pin back in there, there's also the question of the integrity of modern outer ...
The secret is simple, you need to:
place the master link (the part with the pins) with the opening towards you,
bend (flex) the chain so the open ends of the pins come closer to each other,
put the flat part of the master link,
release the bend allowing the pins to snap into the flat part of the master link.
Since one picture saves 1000 words, they ...
You need to bend the chain. Look at this link (PDF) for the Connex Snap On which is the same idea. The PDF is reproduced below in case the thing goes down.
As an aside, you normally can get an alternative standard quick link (like a SRAM 8 speed powerlink) for these chains, rather than the Snap on type.
This article titled, How to Get the Pin Back Into a Bike Chain, will give you a step by step guide on how to put the pin back in a bike chain.
Edit: I'm copying the article just in case the link ever becomes broken (no pun intended). The information below is from felixarizona.com
Edit 2: I removed the content that can be found here for possible copyright ...
For 9 speed or below, SRAM sells the Powerlink, which is a reusable way of opening and closing a chain. You can open and close these a few times, at least for the life of a chain.
For 10 speed and above, SRAM sells the Powerlock, which is a one-time use way of closing a chain. It is not designed to be opened and closed, and it is not suggested that you re-...
Based on your other question: Possible to identify sprocket without taking the bike apart? - you have a Nexus internally geared hub, which would mean you may need a single speed chain.
For derailleur gear equipped bicycles you just need to get a chain compatible with the number of gears ('speeds') on the rear sprocket cassette. More gears require a ...
That chain connector is not only for single speed, but I believe it is for 1/8" chains as well, so you may have a track chain, which is not meant for multi-speed drivetrains.
If it's not an 1/8" chain, and is instead a 3/32" chain, and your drive train is 8 speed or less, you can just replace the master link and you should be good to go. The master links ...
Like so many other things in life, size does matter.
You need to have the master link matched to the chain size (which depends on the number of speeds and manufacturer (which is basically campagnolo versus everyone else)). For example, a master link for a 11 speed chain will be too small for a 7/8/9 speed chain.
Manufacturers generally suggest you use ...
Nothing wrong with it other than aesthetics.
I have 3 master links on the 2.8 metre chain in my `bent. Its glaringly obvious too cos the masters are shiny chrome and the rest of the chain is a dull cheap galv chain.
There might be a few grams difference in weight too, but realistically that's probably less than the weight of dirt on your bike.
Just use ...
The master link on the picture looks properly closed. Master links for 8- and 9-speed chains often do not require tools to open them, while 10/11/12/13-speed chains are better approached with special pliers.
Be, of course, sure that you use a master link that matches your chain and is not too wide, e.g. an 8-speed one for 8-speed chain, 9-speed for 9-speed ...
With older style chains which were designed to be split and joined with a chain tool, the simple fix here would be to use some of the excess chain you cut off of the new chain (they're always too long) and (using a chain tool) splice an extension to the piece you're going to use.
With the newer narrower chains, however, this approach is less reliable.
Given the fact that the outer plates are deformed in the same direction, I believe you're probably cranking on the pedals way too hard when you're shifting.
Are you waiting too long to downshift in the front when starting up an incline? Are you standing while shifting? Are your forcing the front derailleur by putting excessive pressure on the shift lever? ...
Any brand link that is rated for a 7 speed chain will fit. Sram refers to there's as a Power Link, KMC calls it a Missing Link other are quick connect. What is important is that it not the type with the "U" clip that it together. That type is only for non derailleur bikes.
It's not so much that reusing the link increases the chance that the pins or plates that the Powerlock is made up of will fail, but rather that it increases the chance that the link will come apart the same way it was put together. Each time you remove that link it wears down the "ridge" that snaps the pins in place on their opposing plates. This increases ...
Assuming you have a new KMC chain (pic of the connector is KMC).
KMC definitely makes 1/8" chain connectors of the 'Missing Link' style without the extra side plate clip that is presumably causing problems.
See here: http://kmcchain.us/connectortype/single-speed-ml/
and here: http://www.kmcchain.eu/connector-bmx_track_fixie
Can't tell you if those are ...
More than one master link should be fine.
The only issue I can see with this practice is having a few links of unworn chain inserted into a worn one which might cause problems - not a problem in your specific case as the chain is almost brand new.
If I understand correctly you want to buy a new chain and re-use your previous masterlink. I'd strongly advise against.
The reason for NOT re-using an old masterlink with a new chain makes sense. Chains are commonly replaced because they are worn. The links are lengthened with time and above a 1% lengthening the chain is considered over the top. The ...
Today I discovered a fast method of getting a loose pin back into chain without any special tools. Not recommended except last resort!
Stick screwdriver/spanner between the open ends of the outside part of the chain and twist so the holes are pushed out of alignment (and probably bent slightly outwards too). The open ends of the outer part of the link ...
"I want to get the best possible quality if possible." All 1/8" or 3/32" wide chains will work and last about equally-well. Take the mass market leader, KMC, and its mainstay single speed chain. Very inexpensive and in a wide range of colors
The lasting quality of a singlespeed chain is not likely to vary much by make because for practical manufacturing ...
I've had no problems with re-using them (on both mountain and road bikes).
Be aware though that unlike 7/8/9 speed SRAM powerlinks you can't remove the 10 speed ones by hand, you'll need pliers. (You can get special chainlink pliers designed for the job which make it very easy.)
Campagnolo have 2 types of 10 speed chain, 6.2mm and 5.88mm (Ultra Narrow).
If you have the older C10 chain you will need a 6.2mm master link.
Measure the chain to confirm the width but this is likely the issue.
I would follow SRAMs guidance on this one. Note that there are other quick links available that work with all chains (and can be reused). KMC's missing links (depending on the model) are reusable: http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/products/connectors/missing_links/
There's an implicit question about why master links are much more popular in 9 speed (and 10 speed, and no doubt 11 speed too) that I'll answer. It's actually fairly challenging to get a 9 speed chain joined with a chain tool such that it both runs smoothly and is reliable.
For 9 speed chain it's possible, with practice, to accomplish it, but I don't think ...
If you're worried about stressing master links during removal/application, I really really suggest taking a look at Wipperman Connex master links.
They have a U-shaped interlocking design that requires no tools and similarly no stressing the links during manipulation.
In my experience, I've also never had any noticeable issues with these links while shifting ...
You could try using a simple chain breaking/Rivet tool to break the chain at one point (while still keeping the pin in the link) and then put the chain on and use the tool again to push the pin in and join the chain like that. That's the way I always do it. Here's a couple of tools that you could try:
TRIXES Rivet Tool (Very Low Cost): http://amzn.to/...
Chain 'stretch' due to wear is not going to make the chain appreciably longer and affect tension.
You imply that the chain has been replaced. Could it have been incorrectly sized?
The 'A' pivot (where the cage rotates relative to the derailleur body) or 'B' pivot (where the derailleur body rotates relative to the frame) may be stiff or seized. Corrosion ...
Without specialist equipment, the only practical/reliable way to replace a chain pin is to buy a new one designed specifically for that purpose
but at the price of the pin + the need for a chain tool, buying another quick-link (missing link) or even another full chain might be the best option.