28

Unfortunately, most bikes are only rated to 300lbs or less. However, if this is a new bike, you should take it back to the shop and get them to fix it. They can't claim they didn't know you were a heavy rider when they sold you the bike. You might need to get more substantial wheels with more spokes. Wheels designed for touring bikes might be more ...


15

Such a hub exists for trike and quads . Pedal forward with 3 or 5 gears then having a coaster brake to stop . At full stop with the brake engaged continued backward pedal pressure will cause the cycle will move in reverse in a reduced gear . Sturmey-Archer has made these hubs for the niche market (velomobiles ) for some years now . The hubs have a sprocket ...


12

Here's how I would fix the problem. This could all be done by somebody with basic tools and basic knowledge. Get a quill-threadless stem adapter and a new stem. This will allow you to fit the new stem to the handlebars without removing anything from the bars. The old stem can be removed destructively by removing the cinch bolt and prying the thing apart ...


11

I completely agree with the accepted answer of @David Richerby from personal experience. As a heavier rider (~22 stone) for many years, I also found with a couple of different bicycles that the rear wheel tended to come out of true, especially when hitting bumps and potholes. My solution was to replace the rear wheel with a touring wheel with more spokes, ...


10

While it may be possible, by creating a mechanism that shifts the chain from one freewheel to another, or disconnecting one temporarily through mechanical actuators, the hassle and engineering it would take to make happen would be outweighed by the fact that it is almost entirely pointless. A fixed gear would be your best bet as it already does that. ...


10

What you have now is a bit of a hack, but it could be good temporarily so long as you don't over-stress things somehow, and if you can tolerate the lower handlebar. (Note, I haven't seen how your stem is cracked and so can't tell how bad the situation is.) It's not likely to fail catastrophically (so long as you're not hot-dogging on the thing) but the ...


10

Looks fixable - take the lower jockey wheel off (3mm allen) and clean it thoroughly by scratchng the dirt off (most satisfying) and then with something liquid (hot water+dishwash or some solvent) Use a file or sharp knife to cut away the raised burr. Don't worry about any recess/scratch. Force the bent tooth back into line - if it snaps off then that ...


9

This is not going to work. You won't permanently change the shape of the rim by just smooshing it between two concrete discs, as in order to permanently bend metal you need to exceed the yield stress of the metal and plastically deform it. This means that to bend something to a shape, it has to be precisely bent further than its ultimate designed bend, then ...


9

The main limiting factor is chainstay clearance. If your chainrings touch the chainstay it will wear and weaken and eventually fail. So the first thing is google your bike frame and see what maximum size chainring its rated for. Do this first. Once you have that info, get onto Sheldon's gear calculator https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html and ...


9

The part that popped out is one of the pistons. There should always be a bleed block in place between the pistons when bleeding the brake. Immobilizing them this way is what prevents overfill and also prevents the pistons from popping out if you go to squeeze the lever as part of part of the bleed procedure, both of which happened here. Excessively narrow ...


9

No, mechanical disc brakes do not auto-compensate for pad wear like hydraulic brakes do. They will fully retract every time, pads or no pads.


9

I don’t think it’s a bad idea, but be prepared to repair stuff. Things even a novice should be able to check: Frame and fork without damage (i.e. no cracks or dents, nothing bent). Small paint chips or scratches are okay. Shifting to all gears works. Braking works. Wheels are true, no damage to the rim or spokes. This ensures that the most expensive ...


8

That's a nice looking bike, it seems like it would be a great start for your project. The big question is whether or not the bike fits you – if it does it will be worth considering what else you could do to make the bike into a dependable commuter / day touring bike. Start by trying to get the saddle and handlebars into a position where you are comfortable ...


8

Here's a version of you picture with labels on the parts I'm probably not using the correct names but these will work for this purpose. I'm assuming you know where each part generally fits but are having trouble getting the caliper to function correctly when assembled. The caliper basically works by rotating the plunger. The ball bearings fit into the ...


8

The tools being used there are: Bottom bracket tool Large socket to engage with the large hex head on the BB tool Sliding T-handle socket driver Some bottom bracket tools such as the Park BBT-22 have a 3/8 socket drive built in, so the large socket isn't necessary.


8

Spokes getting loose is not a laughing matter. The more spokes get loose or break, the more uneven the load is distributed to the spokes, and the more likely other spokes are to get loose or break. Accumulate enough failed spokes, and your wheel fails. And failed spokes after only 24km means that something is very wrong with the wheel's built. As such, your ...


7

It depends on how you buy the brake, so you need to check whats coming with what you're buying. Typically, you get the caliper+pads+rotor+mounting hardware and buy the brake lever (which is a V-brake lever most of the time unless its a road brake in which case its a regular short pull lever) separately along with the cables+housing. In some cases though (esp....


7

Presumably you have drop bars. Inline brake levers are your only choice. The only places to mount extra levers on drop bars are tops. With inline levers installed you can reach levers from the drops, hoods and tops, so you really don't need levers anywhere else.


6

There are a number of factors to consider when buying a new wheel set: Wheel size, there are many different wheel sizes to choose from, modern road bikes are generally 700c and mountain bikes 26, 27.5 or 29inch. There's also a number of legacy, children's and specialty sizes. Rim width, rim width determines how wide a tire you can run and is determined by ...


6

According to this link the thermal expansion of aluminum 6061 is 13 micro inches/(inch x °F). A headset has a diameter of 1.125 inches, and circumference of 3.5325 inches. Assuming you change the temperature of the headset from 70°F (room temperature) to 0°F (typical household freezer), you'll change the circumference by 13 x 70 x 3.5325 = 3215.5 micro ...


6

Usually what causes this (literally no braking, firm lever feel, lever nowhere close to bottoming) is an error in brake setup or adjustment wherein the brake caliper's armature is being pulled to the end of its range of motion before full braking power is reached, or in some cases before any braking power is generated. This can happen either as a result of ...


6

I have TRP spyres and while I find they perform better than BB7's when properly adjusted, they are very sensitive to adjustment. They have a very narrow range between rubbing the disk and too far away for proper braking. You may have to put up with a slight bit of rub to get proper braking performance. While they are dual actuated[1] like hydraulic disk ...


6

Its not a master link - that's probably the one-use pin that was used to close the chain the first time. This is what a Shimano pin looks like after its been snapped off. There's a clear difference to show this pin should not be pushed out again because the plate holes will be enlarged slightly. Your one doesn't look quite the same - it does look like a ...


6

I would use the same techniques as used on rusted hardware. Liberally apply a penetrating oil (liquid wrench, PB Blaster, CRC Knocker Loose). Use a penetrating oil not a lubricant to break them loose. With the nuts being so small you can soak them in a small container for several days. Then hold the flange with pliers while turning the nut with a wrench. ...


6

For your weight, you either need to find reliable wheel builder who will make wheels for you, or you need to become one. Possibly both in that order. Wheel will be most important part of your bicycle and you should strive to put best components in it, and be sure it is built with your weight in mind. Unwinding of spokes is almost certainly result of not ...


6

₹ 555 (Indian Rupees) is about $11 NZD or about $7.50 US, 5.64 UKP or 6.27 Euros. So you've got a seatpost that is incredibly cheap and likely made of low-grade metals. Zooming in a bit shows the terrible surface finish, and the inside won't be any better. By repeatedly alternating between tight and loose, the threads inside have become "stripped"...


6

Using https://specializedconceptstore.co.uk/content/products/2018-roubaix-comp_12182.jpg a zoom of the mech shows that the angle of the mech is wrong. Since that is not a sprung joint like the darker bolt nearest the cable entry, then there will be teeth on the rear holding whatever angle you set. Back off the middle 10mm bolt, reposition the mech, and ...


5

Edited from my comments above: The first thing I would check is whether the hanger is removable. If it is removable, I would check that it is still bolted securely in place. It's pretty common that removable hangers sort of overlap with the dropout. So it's possible that the hanger is loose, and the QR is then clamping it firmly in to place, but then ...


5

The standard for what "true" means varies by mechanic and the intended use of the wheel. A perfectly true wheel, in the mechanical sense, may not be attainable. Roundness and lateral runout are measurable to .001 millimeters using commonly available shop tools. Most mechanics do not consider that tolerance necessary, but as that is the limit of the tools, ...


5

You'll probably be fine if you buy the wheel from the new version of what you have now. Probably. Shimano especially have a reputation for tweaking things just enough that last years parts don't fit. The real issue is the axle diameter at the centre of the jockey wheel. If that matches the rest is likely to be fine. Unfortunately there's no real way to work ...


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