Hot answers tagged

26

Most of the noise comes from pawls on the freewheel hitting against the splines on the engagment surfaces which makes up the racheting unit. Some reasons for the noise between freewheels? Tension on pawls could be higher causing more noise as they glide over the engagment surfaces High end freewheels have more pawls and engagement points than lower end ...


17

They squeal because water acts as a mild lubricant. That's why things are "slippery when wet" ;) The water makes it harder for the pads to grab onto the rotors. They'll grab for a small fraction of a second and then let go again, and they do this really fast. Imagine the squeaky sound that a your finger makes when your run it over a smooth wet surface, or ...


17

This is a more detailed answer. I cautiously don't agree with Chris that the OP needs to stop riding the wheel, but it does depend on how the rim is constructed. Basically, the aluminum piece is a sleeve of some sort. The sleeves are structural elements in some but not all rims. I believe it is not a structural element in this rim, which the OP described as ...


11

Your hub has a normal freewheel, like described by Matt Adams (ratchet with pawls). There are some models which have spring-loaded cylinders mounted around "tilted" teeth: when you spin it to one side, the cylinders slip. When you spin it to the other side, the cylinders are caught between opposite surfaces, and torque is transmitted by friction (there is ...


10

I know this is an old question, but I think I have come up with a nice solution to this problem. I am an engineer and I have dealt with some vibration issues in scientific equipment. When I got my trainer and felt the vibration in the floor, I decided to apply the same principles to this problem. Vibration vs. Acoustic Transmission The first thing to ...


10

Could be any number of things. The first thing to check (because ignoring it can rapidly cause expensive damage) is that the crank arms are tight. Even if they don't seem loose it doesn't hurt to put a wrench on the fixing bolts and torque them a bit. (If one moves more than a small amount, get a torque wrench and do them up right.) Likewise with the ...


9

For your own safety I would recommend that you keep listening to music and riding as separate activities. However, if you must you could use bone conduction type headphones as these leave the ears open for traffic noise while allowing you to hear the music via bone conduction. You must ride very fast so that wind noise is a problem for you


9

I have taken to wearing an ear cover routinely, regardless of the temperature. I like it because it pads the helmet and acts as a sweatband, but it also reduces the wind noise in my ears. You could try that.


9

With most noise-diagnosing, my usual protocol is to test ride thoroughly, including on an uphill, as the first step, to try and get the most accurate impression possible of what the customer is experiencing. You kind of need to do that to know, or at least have a pretty good guess, that you've taken care of the issue at the end. A caveat here is for my own ...


8

Short answer. Hub integrity can not really be judged by noise alone, but by feel. If you feel it slipping under load the hub could be damaged beyond repair. The quiet smooth feel, but working normally is just a good, sealed hub that the manufacturer built in a way that has smaller or less splines. The full monty. A free wheel hub consists of a few key ...


8

Street Cred? I've almost lost trail ridding buddies due to squeaking brakes. Keep the pads clean and you'll brake much more quietly (unless your skidding and trying to be loud). Its most likely oil or other grimy substance built up on the pads. It can fly off your chain if you spin the cranks to help work in fresh lube. I try to be extra careful on my ...


8

buy cases of beer with the cardboard dividers between the bottles. You can then re-use the cardboard dividers in other cases of beer.


8

It's hard to diagnose the problem remotely, though the suggestions in the comments are good things to try. Normally, I try to give "educational" answers that show people how to fix problems on their own, but I don't feel I have the expertise in this case, so I'm going to make the non-educational suggestion. Your bike is brand new, so you should take it ...


7

My all-weather commuter bike has discs. In my experience, cleaning the discs with window cleaner (e.g. Windex) reduces the squealing. Allegedly, better results can be had by cleaning with automotive brake disc cleaner, but I've not yet tried this.


7

I have a Rohloff and have sent some emails to the factory due to severe oil spill (had to replace the seals, successfully). From what they have told me, the 25ml of oil is more than double the necessary amount for the hub to work fine, since the oil is very sticky and it distributes inside the hub. Even the unavoidable oil "sweating" should be considered ...


7

This is a late answer I know, but I've found a solution to the rattling problem. I've had an Abus 6500 for nearly 3 years now and the rattling always annoyed me. I used to wrap a kind of nylon strap between the lock as I folded it and that partly solved it, although most of the rattle was coming from the joints themselves. It was only just today when I ...


7

It's not the chain but rather new chain/old drivetrain combination. Depending on how worn your chainring/cassette are, the noise may be temporary or permanent. If cogs of your drivetrain are heavily worn, it means that links of the new chain will never lie precisely on them, causing invisible but noisy movements as the chain attempts to position itself on ...


7

My suspicion turns to the spokes. You've said they're a little loose, and one looser than the rest could easily make a noise only when there's weight on the bike, but with no need to pedal. A slight tighten of all the spokes on that wheel might sort it out, while keeping the wheel true. You may also be able to feel/hear a loose spoke by plucking, and confirm ...


6

I suffered from terrible front brake squeal when wet. I'd tried cleaning the rotors and pads, I'd tried different organic and sintered pads, none of it made any difference. But finally I have solved it - by changing the rotor. The original rotor was the Avid one that came with the brake calipers (BB7s), which is pretty light and spidery. The replacement is a ...


6

Are you positive it's coming from the handlebar to stem interface? Creaking sounds are notoriously hard to diagnose. It's highly possible that the noise could be from the stem to steer tube interface or your headset or the spacers on your steer tube or topcap or another source, while it may sound like it's coming from your handlebars. Also, be cautious with ...


6

It has consistently worked for me: Disassemble everything around the zone of noise suspicion, namely remove the handlebar from the stem and separate every bolt and washer away from each other; Clean them with light solvent or oil (the idea is not to degrease, but more to remove dust/rust/dirt and to allow a residual layer of lubrication to remain); Apply ...


6

The noise is coming from your handlebars, but in my experience noises can be deceptive. It may be your stem-handlebar interface, but it may not be isolated to that one spot. The first thing to check is that the tabs on the face plate are not meeting the body of the stem when everything is torqued down. If you can see a gap there, you should be ok. If they ...


6

You may want to read up on how to tune a rear derailluer, but if you just want to get going, all that is needed is a minor adjustment using the barrel screw (clearly seen in the video) where the cable comes in. Turn the screw clockwise 1/4 turn at a time, and the chain will move away from the cog (The cassette is the full set of cogs). Trick is not to make ...


6

Recently I've tried using bone-conduction earphones. They work surprisingly well. I can hear traffic and noises around me clearly because the "transducers" rest on your cheekbones, about two fingers in front of your ear holes. Its really weird because I can block my ears with fingers, and the music keeps playing mostly unchanged, but the ambient sound ...


6

Looks a little tight. There should be +/- 0.5 inch vertical movement of the chain possible halfway between the sprockets. Park tool has a great video on single speed chain replacement: (link starts the video at the tensioning segment.) Readjust tension and see if it makes a difference. Also make sure the wheel is parallel ...


6

Strangely, I have a Canyon and suffered the same creaking / clicking which developed after a couple of years of ownership. It would appear when putting power down on ie. Hills. In every examination - the noise appeared to come from the front - the chainset - and only under harder effort on hills. Firstly, you need to look at and consider the obvious. ...


5

It very much depends on the freewheel mechanism in the hub, some make a nice "clickerty" noise, others are more silent. The hub will be sealed and this should prevent dirt etc. getting into the mechanism. If anything it is likely to get noisier with penetration by dirt & grit rather than quieter. Looking at the bike spec, my experience of Shimano hubs ...


5

Heatshrink SOLVES this problem completely. Go to radioshack, buy the smallest about of heatshrink you can that'll fit, get a heat gun or a lighter or even a blowdrier in a pinch, and say goodbye to the rattling.


5

I noticed this as well. In my experience, on higher end road bikes, the cassette that you put on the freehub body makes the most audible difference, versus the actual inner-workings of the freehub itself in most cases, i.e. normal, ratchet style freehub body. Example: I went from a Sram PG-1130 cassette to a PG-1170 recently. The lower end cassette (...


5

Even though you mentioned in a comment that the high and low seemed to be adjusted properly, it still sounds to me like the 'L' limit of the rear derailleur is improperly set and does not allow the upper guide pulley to fully move the chain onto your largest cog. If this is indeed the case, shift into the largest cog and adjust the 'L' limit screw (the ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible