25

IMHO, it's not the weight that is hurting you the most. While weight makes a difference and a lighter bike would be much better, it's too common in cycling world for people to use weight as a proxy quality and performance. Any twit with scales can measure it. That said, there is no doubt more suitable bike would make longer trips faster, and a better ...


23

For context, I ride in the North Shore of Vancouver, BC, Canada, which is an area famous for its steep and technically challenging trails. I'm comfortable riding black diamond-rated trails. Here's an example of one (not my video): Personally, I ride SPD. I've tried Crankbrothers for six months, but I didn't like the feel, and ...


22

If you have n bikes, n+1 bikes is the right amount of bikes to have. ;) Realistically, I think 2 or 3 is adequate - a cyclocross or non-racing road bike can do the first two tasks (road ride + commute) provided it has rack and fender mounts, and one mountain bike is likely good enough for the trails in one's area (if you go somewhere else where another ...


20

Aside from (n+1), the other honest answer is: as many as your spouse will tolerate, often written as (s-1). At the time I wrote this answer, I had six bikes (two road bikes, one mtb, two folders, one English cruiser). I had met the spousal tolerance factor. After this, I can only replace, not add. So if I really wanted that Brompton, one of the folders had ...


20

While my initial attempt with lightly deflated tires was not a success (I could only bike 100 m before being exhausted) my second attempt went much better. Based on your helpful answers, comments and suggestions I deflated my rear tire to 1.5 bar, and my front tire to 2 bar and rode at the waterline without much problems at an average speed of 20 km/h. I was ...


17

In german this is called "Hinterrad versetzen" -- "displacing the back wheel". I got to learn this in an mtb course I took a while back. If you can, try to find an instructor or other experienced rider to teach you. How to practice: Start very, very small and always wear full protective gear, i.e. a full-face helmet and vest in case you crash. You will ...


16

You should find that on those bikes everything is a bit stronger and heavier than a standard touring bike. Not only are they expected to carry more weight, they're designed to be ridden into places where failures are more difficult to recover from. As well, because they're designed to be ridden off road they'll usually have a lower top tube for better stand-...


14

Check out cyclocross style bicycle. It does well on the road and light trails. You can put touring tires on it. wiki Cyclo-cross


13

I won't give my own question the check. I have a few bikes and I see a bike I want and I am going through the can I justify to myself. How many is too much? If you don't have room to store them safely and sheltered then too many. If you are not going to maintain them then it is too many. You can't afford it. When do you need more than one bike? ...


12

I would recommend you wait for one reason Covid. In most parts of the world bikes are in limited supply. Prices even on used bikes are 50% to 75% higher than comparable bikes a year ago. I think you may wind up overpaying and settling. By settling I mean selecting a bike because it is available. Maybe not the best fit, or the correct type(road, gravel, ...


10

There's a whole sport - cyclocross - that involves riding road bikes off road. Typically the gearing is a little lower than a stock road bike, and these days a lot of them have disk brakes. Most will take fairly wide tyres, 38mm is not out of the question. For riding a stock road bike off road, I'd look mostly at tyres. If you can find some that will clear ...


9

It sounds like what you want is a gravel or adventure bike. There is not a distinct category, and different manufacturers use different names, but the basic attributes you are looking for are: Road bike style frame, ISO 622 rims, drop bars Clearance for up to about 40mm tires Disc, linear pull (V) or cantilever brakes Slacker steering geometry More relaxed ...


8

Carbon fiber road bikes are generally perfectly capable of being ridden on less than perfect surfaces without sustaining damage. Obviously you want to avoid large obstacles such as potholes, rocks, kerbs etc. 28mm tires are definitely a good idea. Depending on how much poor quality surface you plan to ride on, you might want to consider looking for a '...


8

The Linus Roadster is not the bike I'd choose for rural poor quality tarmac, gravel roads or packed dirt trails. The stock 32mm tires do give a bit more volume than standard road size tires to soak up bumps a little (they are about the the same size as cyclo-cross tires ) but they are slicks designed for paved roads. The main problems are the single speed ...


8

Yes on hard sand it should be fine. The problem is what if it is not hard or there are patches of dust. At that point it will be a bit more tricky. The good part is you are on a bike and on sand. So if you fall it is not a big deal, and if you find yourself getting stuck you can walk sections. You may consider lowering your tire pressure too as that works ...


7

Gasoline was used for many years as an inexpensive readily available solvent. There are a couple of real life issues with using gasoline for a solvent. It is very flammable thus a fire hazard. It is absorbed through the skin and it is toxic when inhaled in high concentrations. You have to find a way of disposing of the remaining dirty solvent. Pouring it on ...


7

It's called an endo and you can start learning it anywhere right now (e.g in a parking lot). Don't try to learn turning endos or rolling endos at first. Here is a good how-to video (doesn't matter that it's on a bmx): Some advanced turning and rolling endos on a mountain bike can be seen at http://www.pinkbike.com/video/...


7

Yes, absolutely. The knobs will get rounded off at an accelerated rate, particularly down the center of the rear tire, and the tires won't offer as much traction off-road. This doesn't happen instantly, but it will happen soon enough on a knobby used for primarily road riding.


7

Generally, wide tires have lower rolling resistance than narrow ones, and they will be more comfortable due to cushioning. Hence, there's an argument you could go all the way up to a 45mm tire, the maximum I think your bike will clear. For performance-oriented road riders, aerodynamic considerations might come into play, but these are probably irrelevant ...


7

There are plenty of people who do both. Flat pedals are common, sometimes with added pins to give more traction on the foot. Cleats are common too, with a larger proportion preferring 2-bolt designs over the larger 3 bolt road-style of cleat (however I have ridden casual MTB with 3 bolt keo cleats cos its what I own) Some people like eggbeaters or frog ...


6

As a horse owner I can answer this from experience. If approaching the horse from behind it is important to slow down, as you approach the horse shout 'bike' or make some noise - bikes are very quiet and if you suddenly 'appear' in the horses line of vision and it didn't hear you approach you'll spook it. Pass wide and slow. If approaching from the front, ...


6

Using gasoline as a solvent won't harm your bearings. It may dissolve some plastic components though. The drawbacks of using gasoline are mainly due to its properties other than as a solvent: it's volatility, flammability, and that it is toxic, as it will harm your skin if exposed to it for long periods of time, and that it requires careful disposal. ...


6

BMX was originally (and still is) run on smooth dirt track that have obstacles such as jumps and whoops (also know as the rhythm sections). Because the tracks are smooth a small fully rigid bike works amazingly well when ridden appropriately. The BMX bike and track evolved together emphasizing a riding style that is about timing and body position. All of ...


6

Whether the cruiser style bike is suitable for the 'mountain bike trails' you are riding on really depends on exactly what those trails are like. The cruiser has pretty big tires so it should be able to handle rough surfaces just fine. If you are riding those trails and it feels OK, then it's OK. Cheap bikes from big-box stores with Shimano 'Tourney' level ...


6

28mm wide tires are perfectly suitable for riding hard-packed fine gravel trail surfaces. You do have to be more careful when braking and cornering than on tarmac as the top surface is loose. Larger rocks and potholes should be avoided of course. As the size of the gravel particles gets larger or the depth of the loose gravel top surface gets deeper the ...


6

All that a smartphone app or cycle computer may hope to achieve, is to provide an estimate of the burnt calories. They do this by taking your speed, and possibly climb rate, and some assumptions about you and your bike to derive the likely physical effort required to maintain this speed/climb rate. If you have not told your app how heavy you + bike are, ...


5

Use a seatpost-mounted rear mudguard, like the SKS X-tra Dry: For the front, you can also use a downtube mudguard like the SKS X-board: These are convenient for bikes which don't have proper fender mounts/fenders would interfere with clearance/fenders need to be easily removed or not [Most mountain bikes fit this thing]. They don't protect the drivetrain ...


5

It's no myth that decent 700s are hard to come by. I'm in Huaraz, Peru trying to find a wider tire for my Fargo to get off pavement. There are no Schwalbes to be found anywhere in this country. Mail order is unreliable as customs may or may NOT impose an incredibly high import tax. OR they might just not release a mail order for months. Geometry, cycle ...


5

On sand you'll need wider tires that do not dig into sand as easily as well as some tread pattern to prevent sand grains from rolling under your tires. 23mm is too narrow. Measure the forks, if they are wide enough you can use cyclocross semislicks. I have seen an old Trek road bike with cyclocross tires used in a race, so it might be possible for your bike ...


5

The main problem I see with Gates Carbon Drive on a fat bike is that you have to have a frame that "breaks" in the rear triangle to accommodate threading the belt. Have you checked to make sure there's a frame available that supports fat bike tires and also supports breaking the chainstays. As far as off-roading goes, that would create a potential weak spot ...


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