51

The main reason is that bicycle tyres are much, much thinner than car tyres. A little tetrahedron of broken glass or a drawing pin that would puncture both tyre and tube on a bicycle won't trouble a car's tyre in the slightest. A secondary reason is that bicycle tyres with tubes have additional ways to suffer punctures: an under-inflated tyre is susceptible ...


38

An unaddressed reason is speed-induced wind and the shape of modern roads. Motor vehicles travel in a lane, and a roadway is generally two or more lanes in opposite directions. As such, these two lanes meet at the centerline, which tracks the highest point on the sealed road surface. For drainage, the road is not flat - all roads are intended to have some ...


24

That looks like the sort of hole you get from tiny bits of glass working their way through the tyre, then slowly cutting into the tube. I'd check the outside of the tyre for tiny cuts, and the inside for barely-detectable points poking through. This photo shows the sort of small cuts I'm talking about: Each of those had a little bit of glass or something ...


22

The back wheel is the wheel bearing most of the weight and also the wheel providing the driving force. For these 2 reasons it is likely that the forces being exerted between the wheel and surface are much greater on the rear wheel than on the front. This makes it more likely that you will get punctures on the rear wheel than the front - all other things ...


22

There are three approaches you can use in combination. Preparation Tough tires - people have their favorite puncture-proof tires. Kevlar reinforced tires work pretty well. Hard tires - pump your tires to close to the maximum pressure written on the side wall. This definitely reduces punctures, and can be combined with puncture-proof tires. At the time ...


22

Do whatever works, really. The problem with the container of water approach is that it requires a container of water. It won't damage the tube. Also, if you need to patch the tube, you have to wait for the wet tube to dry. So, I'd generally recommend doing this last (usually leaks are not subtle enough to need the immersion), but no harm going there first. ...


21

You are correct that the type of puncture you're getting is caused by the rim "pinching" the inner tube. The root cause here is one of the following: pressure too low (most likely) You're not avoiding potholes carefully enough Weight is too high for the tires/terrain. This has nothing to do with fixies except perhaps that people on fixies tend to ...


20

Increased load (i.e rider weight) on a pneumatic tire does not increase the pressure in the tire. The contact patch on the ground just increases in size until the contact patch area x pressure = load (or the rim contacts the ground). What might be happening is you are getting pinch flats when hitting bumps or holes. This is when the tire and tube are ...


17

To follow up on what Batman says, what you use to find the leak depends a lot on the circumstances. If you get a flat by the side of the road (and you don't have a spare tube) then you obviously can't use the tub of water (unless you find a convenient pothole filled with rainwater). In other circumstances the water tub (or bathroom sink or whatever) is ...


17

I see three possibilities: Your tire pressure is too low and you are getting pinch flats. As a reference point, with 25mm wide tires and your 74kg weight I’d use at least 6bars (600 kPa) of pressure, better 6.5 or 7. Refill every week or so. Usually with pinch flats you’ll have two holes in opposing sides of the tube, like a snake bite (hence why they are ...


16

This kind of failure is basically the reason sticker-type patches have a reputation for not being reliable. Scrupulously sanding the area and getting it as clean as possible (ie, with alcohol or other residue-free solvent, cleaner than anyone can probably get it on the side of the road) wards off the problem but doesn't eliminate it. Sticker type patches ...


16

Another possible cause is misadjusted rim brakes where the brake pad makes contact with the tire's sidewall.


15

When putting tubeless tyres on I would definitely recommend that you use a sealant such as Stan's if riding somewhere with thorns. This would be your first level of defence. The sealant would seal up a thorn (or other) hole quickly and painlessly. You can repair a tubeless tyre with a vulcanizing repair kit, but reseating a tubeless on the trail is very ...


15

That's a very hard area to patch properly (if its even possible), and I'd recommend putting a new tube in instead of trying to patch it. . I'd also check that the rim tape on the rim is intact and in good condition, cause otherwise if its busted, you're going to get another cut. Also, as pointed out by ChrisH in the comments, rough edges on the rim hole ...


15

You have to remove the wheel to replace the tube. A repair can be done in the frame. On older bikes without quick release, and with current gear hubs, electric hubs, Nuvinci hubs, belts etc, you need a spanner and oftentimes, the gear adjustment goes back different and needs fiddling with. This reduces the advantage of tube changes. A fix is only 3 mins. ...


14

I believe what you're describing is the "Rim Tape". The rim tape covers up the holes in the rim (wheel) that the spokes attach through. Without that tape covering the holes, the innertube (air chamber) will be exposed to holes and sharp surfaces that are likely to cause another flat tire. If the rim tape is torn in one spot, but still covering all of those ...


14

A bike I sometimes borrow has one of these locks, and I can't say it's ever been a problem. You've given the answer in your question: Do not close the wheel lock between a spoke and the valve. If you're prone to forgetting this, what you need is a way to make the valve more obvious. I've had automatically illuminated valve caps before. That would do the ...


13

Every once in a while it is just bad luck. Most of the time though, if you've fitted a new tube and it starts to leak within minutes, that means you have something on the inside of your tire that is causing the leak. A thorn, piece of glass or debris, etc. Usually you can find the culprit if you very very thoroughly run your fingers along the inside of the ...


13

I believe pre-glued patches were always intended to be a temporary fix to get you home. When they first came out on the market I remember explicit warnings that these were not a permanent fix. Waiting for glue to set up on the side of the road is a pain, and these were intended to solve that issue by providing a quick fix to get you moving again. ...


12

Pull the valve core and poke a 2mm Allen wrench down to test the fluid level with the valve at the 6 o'clock position with the tire off the ground. You want "some" free liquid. How much depends on the tire size but I usually look for at least 3mm. Some amount of sealant from a new installation goes to coating the tire and in many cases filling in the ...


11

Inflate your tires to a higher pressure. Use a pump with a pressure gauge instead of going by "feel". Check the pressure more often. The max pressure listed on the sidewall is a good starting point, but if you're already inflating to max psi, you may want to exceed it a bit. It's likely you have a slow leak, and you're at a low inflation pressure by the ...


11

As for during "How can I minimize the chance of getting a puncture while driving through glass?" Coast and distribute your weight evenly. Don't brake - it will grind the glass in. If you think you can clear it then hop it - be sure you can clear it with both tires. And a hop - not a bunny hop - a bunny hop is for height not distance. There is lot you can ...


11

There are several questions here. You were on a road trip and found a hole in your tire... I swapped front and rear tyre to have the weak one in front because it gets less pressure. Was this correct thing to do? Also, should I have deflated the air pressure in tube when I saw this? And... Should and could I have put both my old and his old tyre to prevent ...


11

Essentially all modern car tires have steel puncture-protection belts under the tread surface


10

My conclusion after many years of using not two, but three types of valves is that the best is the one that results most practical for you, acording to type of riding, type of pumping methods available and of course the type of bike/tire/rims you are using. Neither valve type is absolutely better than other, but one of them may result better for your ...


10

The question was asked in 2010. I believe tubeless tires were fairly widespread on mountain bikes at the time. However, tubeless tires on road, gravel, and cyclocross bikes were in their infancy in 2010. It is 2019, and things are substantially different. Tubeless tires with sealant do address the original question. Tubeless products have advanced enough ...


10

The problem appears to be when air gets into the tube of glue - if air is present in the tube, evaporation will take place. This air can enter the tube during patching, or from a poor seal between the cap and the tube. I was able to get a tube of glue to last for over 2 years (and 8 patches) by following advice from the other answers here: Make the ...


10

That is a tire liner. I think http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html is good reading on the topic of liners / flats in general - in particular, he generally doesn't recommend them (and I don't either). He also claims that if they're improperly installed, they can increase the frequency of flats. If you are prone to flats and you've eliminated improper ...


10

One solution not mentioned so far: tyre savers. Rather than trying to stop and wipe glass off the tyre and embed it in your gloves or hands, install a small piece of wire that does this continuously. They might even work. I've seen them used by a couple of people, and those people thought they were great. The theory is that they brush off any protruding ...


10

Yeah. Use the quick release. If you push the brake arms together, you should be able to pull the noodle out of the noodle holder (you may need to wiggle it a bit out). Then the arms will be wide enough to remove the wheel. Alternatively, you can de-inflate the tire, remove it and then re-inflate it after re-installation.


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