Hot answers tagged

20

I avoid backpacks where possible 1) Sweat - I get damp enough wearing just a cycling top. Putting anything else on top makes it much worse. 2) Crashing - Occasionally I have carried a toolbox in a tramping pack. One of the worries is "what happens if I end up rolling on this?" 3) Visibility - can be off-set with reflective tape or an overbag/wrapper/...


20

The advantages of seat mounted racks are that they don’t require rear dropout rack lugs; some of the seat mount racks have quick release levers so you can easily take them off (while racing or transporting the bike, etc), and are many times the only option for a rear suspension bike. The disadvantages of seat mount racks are numerous: max luggage weight ...


16

There is no real problems other than things getting scratched or broken being shuffled around, derailleurs easily get caught on seat belts etc. There is however a very easy and affordable option to avoid this. (Assuming you have QR skewers) Install a 2x4 or similar piece of wood. Then mount QR truck mounts to said 2x4. If you are going to be using your SUV ...


16

Several manufacturers make replacement seatpost collars with integrated rack mount holes. Just make sure you get the right diameter for your seat tube. Here is an example:


12

Weight on the bike is easier to manage than weight on your body. The bike will handle a bit differently, but you'll quickly get used to it. If all you use the bike for is commuting, you should get the rack. Like you, I commute with a backpack, but I wouldn't consider a rack because I also regularly use my bike for recreational purposes.


11

The problem with nostagia is the n+1 rule. Bikes manufacturers have been on a never ending quest to make bikes more and more task specific. This means most "racing" bikes are not well suited to everyday transportation riding. Modern "Race" Road Bikes Mixing fenders and a rack with a modern road race bikes is like trying to get oil and water to mix. The ...


11

Your responses to the suggestions so far show that you definitely need to take your bike on a bus, which is cool since it rules out all the other possibles variables that these: So the bottom lines is how likely you are to be able to get your bike on a given bus. Let's call that number ρ. Now then, since that probably is less than 1, you need to be ...


9

The main issue is the load limits on those racks, and the second one is why those limits exist. The Thule Pack ’n Pedal Tour Rack is claimed to take 25kg, the Topeak seatpost mounted racks will take 9kg. Thule seem to be selling rebadged Freeload gear? I have seen a Thule rack fail with significantly less than 25kg on it, and while being ridden fairly ...


9

From rack strength perspective it doesn't make much difference. Most of the weight is going straight down to the rear dropout. The front connection is mostly for stability and isn't bearing much weight. From the seatpost's perspective, it's already carrying 150+ pounds (75kg+) of the rider. Another few pounds is nothing. (Note that racks that cantilever ...


8

I would recommend getting a second bike for commuting. The Specialized Roubaix is a racing machine. It would also be foolish to leave it locked outside a shop (in case you considered doing that). Most likely you will void the warranty by using clamps on seat stays. To get that low weight, carbon frames are strong only in certain directions and may be ...


8

The safest way to carry luggage on a carbon frame is to use a trailer, like the BOB trailers. Carbon frames are very strong, but each area of the frame is designed and tested for the loads it expects from a given direction. Adding luggage to a frame not designed for it, i.e. Without braze-one or threaded mounts, is generally a bad idea.


7

The front mounting straps on standard luggage racks are meant to be bent as needed to fit the bike. It appears that bending them down just slightly and sliding them back in their slots should produce a nice alignment of the rack.


7

You should look into getting a folding double kickstand. They're great for loaded bikes. Both legs fold off to the left side, but when you kick it down one leg supports each side so the bike stays perfectly upright.


7

As someone who rides their bike everywhere I have experienced a great many types of bike rack. In my opinion the best choice is a Sheffield Stand. Image Copyright David Wright CC BY-SA 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0), via Wikimedia Commons They are cheap, simple and readily available to purchase. When installing them make sure they ...


7

Weight on your body takes additional energy to carry, but it's also easier to move dynamically (it moves with your body and doesn't change the feel of the bike). I have always used and preferred backpacks for commuting. In addition to being more dynamic, it's easier to deal with once you get to your destination. You simply get off your bike and walk away. ...


7

Stability of load will likely be quite different between the Tubus and giant racks. For the Tubus racks the Tara had a cross brace to help stabilize the load. The Tubus duo does not, but if you look carefully it mounts to both the inside and the outside of the mid fork eyelets, while the Tara mounts only to the outside. This adds stability lost by not ...


7

Would not recommend I have tried this - and it works well up to where it all went badly wrong. So I had an old front wheel hollow axle with a QR skewer through it. There were two locknuts and two old cone nuts set at a distance of about 100mm, duplicating the OLD of a front wheel. Sorry no photos available. This axle had been clamped onto a rear ...


7

A subset of panniers that are designed for shopping bags are often called "grocery panniers," the distinguishing features being an open top and dimensions similar to the base of a paper grocery bag (not that you can get those very much anymore). They are typically easily removable (just hooks), and in my experience do not bounce around alot, as was ...


6

The Surly Pacer is a good choice. My first real bike was a one, and I used it for commuting, training rides, and a two-week tour in Europe. Even though it wasn't "ideal" for training rides or touring, it worked great for me until I was able to afford more specialized bikes. The Pacer doesn't come with as many rack bosses as you'll want (one advantage of the ...


6

I recently bought a new rack specifically because my old rack had no good spot to attach a light to. Well, that, and it has a broken weld causing it to rattle. The rack I bought is this one. I got the Bontrager Flare 2, which easily attached to the rack with a single bolt. The light has 3 modes, which are steady, strobe, and random. Random works well if you'...


6

It shouldn't be too different to tapping out anything else, the added difficulty being that you would normally clamp the workpiece in a vice and you don't have that option. I'd take the wheel off and lie the bike down on a bench with scrapwood in place of the axle (try to clamp/screw it in place) to give you something to push against other than the frame. ...


6

Not really, just be careful. For example, you don't want the derailleur to hit the door or something when getting it in or out. You also don't really want to stack things on top of the bike, especially if you have no wheel in (e.g. at the fork). That being said, getting a bike in and out of a vehicle can be inconvenient, plus, it can get your car dirty. ...


6

One company that our city gets most of it's racks from is Dero. They have a variety of styles. Alternatively, Uline wave and u-shaped bike racks as suggested by Batman. My personal preference for racks is a bunch of U racks, a 'coathanger' style rack, or a wave rack in that order. I'm looking for a rack that I can ulock the frame to and secure both wheels ...


6

If your company has the space, I recommend allocating indoor space with a double decker style of rack to maximize space. My company took a 20ft x 75ft space and installed a two level rack, lockers, a bathroom with shower and bike work stand. It gets filled up everyday with commuters, no locks needed (the door from the outside needs their office key card), ...


6

I'm Dutch, thus when I went to high school I had to commute for about 20 km/1 hour for a single trip. Since it was high school and some days I really had a large and heavy pack. Carrying it alone in the halls of school was heavy, let alone biking with it. Most of us used a specific brand (Kipling) bag, and we mounted the bag on our bicycle with a support ...


6

RoboKaren's answer is great on the pros and cons, so I'll restrict myself to explicitly answering ... why would someone get the seatpost-mounted rack over the frame-mounted rack? Really, the only reason is that your bike won't support a frame-mounted rack: for example because it has rear suspension. In engineering terms, a frame-mounted rack supports ...


6

Found out those "clamps" are called conduit hangers: https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-ACC-Conduit-Hanger-67820/202077114


6

I think you are correct that it’s only to prevent items from sliding forward and falling off or colliding with your legs/hips. This is only really important if you use the spring loaded clamp. A lot of racks (I think all of them without the spring loaded clamp) don’t have this “nose”. Since there is still another horizontal bar right below it I don’t think ...


6

Is the seatpost carbon? If it is replace it with an aluminium one because you'll get a number of racks that clamp to the seatpost. A rack that clamps to the seatpost would normally take up to 10kg. You may find one that also has stays that attach to the axle. Some are attached with bands to the seat-stays. This should only be done with a metal frame not a ...


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